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> Help me set up these Webers, Basic Weber questions
anderssj
post Sep 28 2024, 01:13 PM
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You may find this chart helpful too:

Attached Image

As you can see, I over-estimated power and Venturi size. With 32mm vents the car bogged off-idle (WOT was good though). Switching to 30mm vents got rid of the off-idle bog, while providing very good performance across the rpm range.

For context, the engine is 2.0 with an Elgin cam (7008-4/2L, 280* duration) and Mahle Euro piston and cylinder set. Carbs are set up with 30mm main venturis, 55 idle jets, 135 main jets, 180 air correction jets, and 9164.2 emulsion tubes. Car runs great here at sea-level.

When I was stationed in Colorado Springs, I think I kept the 30mm vents, but dropped at least one size on the idle and main jets. I'll see if I have any notes.

Hope this helps!

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MikeK
post Sep 28 2024, 03:35 PM
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QUOTE(Jack Standz @ Sep 28 2024, 11:50 AM) *

QUOTE(MikeK @ Sep 28 2024, 09:34 PM) *

QUOTE(technicalninja @ Sep 27 2024, 08:08 PM) *

Unless you've changed them the carbs come with too large a primary venturi.

Even a 2.0l benefits from 28s over 32s.

If you're smaller, it's even more important.

Pierce manifolds is a good source for parts and linkage.

If you're running 40s, they have venturis as small as 27.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/

I'd start with venturis 28, mains 130-135, air correction 190-200, Emulsion tubes F11
and pilots 50-55.

You have the tall manifolds and there are others that are shorter.

The air filters might fit on a short version...


The standard jetting and venturis supplied with the carbs area good starting point. It has 28mm venturis. These carbs were about $75 each on Ebay. I've gone through them, set the floats to 12mm, checked jet sizes, lube and lock-tighted everything and reassembled. The only complaints that I have so far is that the emulsion tubes are drilled perpendicular to the tube and not at an angle, like OG Webers are. I'm going to give it a try and worst case scenario is that I stick in some new F11's.

Here's what it came with:
200 Air correction
F11 Emulsion tubes
115 Mains
50 Idles


We used a pair of those cheap Weber clone carbs & find no problem with how they function.

Tuning is pretty much the same, so get several sets of main and idle jets in a range of progressive sizes. They're pretty inexpensive on ebay, but take a while to receive from other countries.

Getting steady fuel pressure at the right pressure (around 3 PSI on our gauge) was critical to keep the bowls filled and not over pressuring the seat causing flooding. During the inspection and test fitting, we replaced the needle valves and seats with name brand parts, which seemed to work better.

Your fuel pressure regulator may be a problem, so keep an eye on the fuel pressure gauge as we used a similar looking one that did not keep the pressure low enough to work properly.

If you do decide to change the vents, make sure you measure them as they come in different outside diameters.

And the best tool for dialing them in is getting an AFR gauge. Very helpful as we've taken that car from sea level to 8200 feet high, which is a challenge for a carbureted motor & similar to your altitude.


Thanks for another vote of confidence on these Chinese Webers. Though I might have to change a couple of things, I like the idea of having something new that hasn't been abused by a PO. Many VW tuners echo the same sentiment.

I originally purchased a 40 psi fuel pump with the intention of getting the FI up and running. There appeared to be a problem with ECU and not getting the injectors to fire. I went through the factory procedure to test things and determined that I'd rather put some carbs on. I'll be able to use them when I rebuild/tune the motor in the future. For now, just get it running.

The regulator is from Summit: Summit regulator I'm going to use a return to the tank since I've already replumbed from the tank back to the motor with NiCop tubing. I spoke with tech support and they assured me that it will regulate to 3 from 40 without a problem. It has a port on the side that I bought a thread-in gauge to monitor it while tuning. It should make it easy to troubleshoot if I have a problem on the side of the road.

Vents are currently 28's, which is what came with them. Should be fine for a FI camed, 1700cc at altitude. Good enough to get it on the road.

Several years ago, a guy stopped by my garage and gave me a small tackle box with a good variety of Weber jets; idles, mains, etc... He also gave me a 16" Fuch. Never saw the guy again, but thanks!

I'd definitely like to get a wideband for tuning, but that's currently a luxury as there is so much else to be done. I'll have to do some old-school plug reading in the meantime.
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MikeK
post Sep 28 2024, 03:51 PM
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QUOTE(anderssj @ Sep 28 2024, 12:28 PM) *

Running Dells on my car, but the linkage set up is similar--towards the front of the car/engine:



Here's a copy of the set-up sheet I got from Claude's Buggies when I bought the carbs back in 1983 ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) ):



Note the orientation of the linkage arms--"down and out"

Another pic showing all the pieces of the puzzle:




I received the part of the instructions that didn't have mention of the 914 installation. Would've been nice had they included that. I guess you have to be smarter than the carbs?

Thanks for the information from all of you. I look forward to any more info you guys can provide.

I ordered some short filters and smaller velocity stacks to go with them. I dig the look of the talls, but I guess I can use a rain tray now. I'll keep updating with the rest of the installation until I get this thing fired.

Here's a couple pics of the carbs:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727560309.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727560311.2.jpg)

One other issue which I failed to mention, is that the jets and emulsion tubes were very tight. I ended up cleaning up the sealing surfaces with some fine sandpaper and now things fit nicely.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727560311.3.jpg)

I'm working in some pretty primitive circumstances with minimal tools, at my house. I wanted a project to tinker on at the house. I'll move it to my shop once it's rolling.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.thesamba.com-27418-1727560312.4.jpg)



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Jack Standz
post Sep 29 2024, 12:39 AM
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Best wishes for your project.

That is the exact same regulator that caused problems on our motor. We used -8AN lines and could not get the fuel pressure to stay steady at 3 PSI even though it says right on it that it's good for 1.5 to 25 PSI. Hope you have better luck with it, but some friendly advice to keep an eye on it.

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IronHillRestorations
post Sep 29 2024, 04:29 PM
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QUOTE(NARP74 @ Sep 28 2024, 08:32 AM) *

The two setups I have, one is round cross bar, the other is center pull, pics later hopefully.
I would love to see the tuning article, always looking for more experience.


carb tuning
Post #6 a AFR gauge is the way to go for carbs.
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NARP74
post Sep 30 2024, 09:10 AM
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Cheers! I didn't know that was yours. Gint has referenced that several time locally.
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