Dwelling on the topic of Dwell, To continue to Dwell or Not to Dwell Options

[worn]

FWIW - I actually like points. I’ve never been left walking by a bad set of points.

The problem with any modern fuel injection or electronic ignition is one of the failure modes is instantaneous failure that completely disables the system and there is nothing you can do but walk or wait for the tow truck.

Though I’ll be the first to admit fuel injection and electronic ignitions rarely fail, it really sucks when they do.

I once bought and properly installed new points. Drove maybe fifty miles and the points mechanism simply broke. one of those cheaper in manufacturing than it should have been stories, but I was still calling for a flatbed.

[rgalla9146]

Circled in green, thin arrow in red. Should be self evident which is which. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Cary
The points in the picture do not show the adjustment features (circled in green) positioned as they are when installed. They would be opposit each other.
The two bumps act as a location for one side of a flat screwdriver tip. The other side of the screwdriver tip protrudes into the slot on the movable plate.
With the points set screw lightly tightened a screwdriver can be rotated in those slots
to accurately change gap/dwell plus/minus.
Use a long thin screwdriver.
Whew. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Rory
PS As a general rule...if you convert to pertronix always keep a set of points in the car.

[StarBear]

Got the dwell to 45, car never ran better, power through 5k

I will write a detailed overview of this later

Yay!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[StarBear]

Give the coil wire something to ground on or you can have "sparkies" inside the cap

@technicalninja
Could you provide a bit of specifics on this? Sounds like good advice but not sure how to implement it if there is something additional to do as a part of this technique.

[technicalninja]

Give the coil wire something to ground on or you can have "sparkies" inside the cap

@technicalninja
Could you provide a bit of specifics on this? Sounds like good advice but not sure how to implement it if there is something additional to do as a part of this technique.

I'd just temporarily affix the coil wire 1/8-1/4" away from the engine case. You could just ground it and it would work fine but I LIKE to see the spark.

Sometimes a plug will "fit" in the coil wire and you can stick the plug in and connect a jumper from the plug body to the engine case

I'm hunting BLUE!
Yellow means weak spark...

Even if I grounded the wire, I would check the spark intensity after I made my dwell adjustment.

A few American cars had a cool little window in the cap that allowed dwell adjustments while the vehicle was running. This is really "THE WAY" but does not apply to 98% of what's out there.

Once you adjust the dwell while running you never want to go back.

Once you make the jump to COP you REALLY never want to go back...
You ALSO don't have to redo ignition shit for 100K either!

[930cabman]

Many years ago, when I worked at an independent VW repair shop, I was taught this method:

Hook up your dwell meter. Attach a remote starter switch. Take the cap off of the distributor and slightly loosen the screw which secures the points, just so there is enough friction to hold them in place. In the distributor are two little tits which correspond to a small slot in the points. Insert a flat blade screwdriver between the tits and the edge of the screwdriver into the slot on the points. This gives you leverage to adjust the points precisely. With the ignition on, crank the motor over with the remote starter and adjust the points until the dwell meter is reading 50 or whatever you want it to be. Tighten the screw fully and done. I've always done this with an analog meter. It's a quick and precise way of doing it.

Never thought of it as being so simple. Thanks for the tip, I will use this for sure in the future


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[StarBear]

@technicalninja
OK, I'm getting there. I've not had/used a remote starter before.
Is there a particular kind to get (presuming FLAPS counter staff will be of no help)?
Also, I'd like to make it temporary (install to do dwell, then remove), so how would it be installed (without running a wire down through the engine compartment to the starter relay)?

[technicalninja]

Harbor freight cheapy

https://www.harborfreight.com/1224v-remote-...ASABEgLeWvD_BwE

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80...4396303b7e2b8a2

Personally, I'll run an extra "engage" wire from the relay/starter solenoid to allow hook ups without crawling under the car.

I'll probably go one step further adding a momentary switch in the E-comp and make it permanent, but I can understand you wanting not to have extra crap.

Your car is Beautiful! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

For doing the dwell adjustment having a helper spin it over via ignition switch should work fine.
You will have to have ignition in "on" position anyway to adjust dwell.

Now, having a "spin it now" permanent switch in the E-compartment is damn handy...

The permanent method is cheaper than the "bump starters" I posted.

My bump starter is 35+ years old; I use the shit out of it.
I'm messing with 500+ cars a year.

I don't know the fuse box well enough to say "add power at this point" but it might be possible without EVER getting under the car.

Pretty much all new cars have a starter relay in the under-hood fuse box and this is where I always START in a "starter inop" issue.
Takes about 15 seconds to check for two powers with Key in start, 1 ground and then cross one of the powers to starter feed.
Super quick diag and I know what's wrong....

This test light (which is sort of pricy) is KICK ASS as it has the ability to provide both a 10amp power source and 10 amp ground source by pressing a button.
It sort of has a bump starter built in...

Power probe 4, this is what I have, they have a newer version and cheaper versions.
Mine was 160 when I received it as a gift 10 years ago. This is NOT worth 270 today IMO. Even back then it seemed overly expensive to me...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-Case-Acc...C125&sr=1-5

Cheaper Autel version: I'd buy this if I didn't have a power probe already. There are less expensive alternates available. Autel stuff seems "decent" to me.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-PowerScan-Auto...c2c939f235c19cb

[StarBear]

Very helpful! Thanks!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)