Rear Trunk Support DIY, Made my own Options

[jcambo7]

I havent seen that trunk open in a long time ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I’m sure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) engine is running great still!

[Root_Werks]

Stock is a pretty elegant solution.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Known and owned 914's with struts or prop rod(s). There are issues or compromises with both. Mostly they get in the way of getting the top in or out. Single rods tend to place a lot of stress on one side while supporting a large lever arm of metal.

Not sure why it's still a thing to move away from stock? Unless you have a track car or something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[jcambo7]

Stock is a pretty elegant solution.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Known and owned 914's with struts or prop rod(s). There are issues or compromises with both. Mostly they get in the way of getting the top in or out. Single rods tend to place a lot of stress on one side while supporting a large lever arm of metal.

Not sure why it's still a thing to move away from stock? Unless you have a track car or something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

All the stuff for torsion bars was already removed from my rear hood by previous owner(s). I didn’t feel like messing with them and wanted a simple long term solution. The next owner could always install them and remove the ones I made very easily as well.

[930cabman]

Stock is a pretty elegant solution.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Known and owned 914's with struts or prop rod(s). There are issues or compromises with both. Mostly they get in the way of getting the top in or out. Single rods tend to place a lot of stress on one side while supporting a large lever arm of metal.

Not sure why it's still a thing to move away from stock? Unless you have a track car or something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

My rods have lost some of their power and allow sagging

[KELTY360]

Sir Andy's pics of a pre-production prototype shows a jack stand in the trunk. Do you suppose the factory intended that equipment till the bean counters stepped in?

[ClayPerrine]

Sir Andy's pics of a pre-production prototype shows a jack stand in the trunk. Do you suppose the factory intended that equipment till the bean counters stepped in?

Probably not. A simple prop rod would have been way cheaper than the torsion bar setup. It was probably for ease of putting the top in the rear trunk.

[jd74914]

Sir Andy's pics of a pre-production prototype shows a jack stand in the trunk. Do you suppose the factory intended that equipment till the bean counters stepped in?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[Root_Werks]

I guess there could be a number of valid reasons to move away from stock:

All the original springs etc. removed (as stated)
Engine swap necessitates removing spring rods
You have a steel top 914 and don't care about targa top stowage
Save weight (thinking track car)

So yeah, I can see it now, there are good reasons to use another method.

[Literati914]

I guess there could be a number of valid reasons to move away from stock:

All the original springs etc. removed (as stated)
Engine swap necessitates removing spring rods
You have a steel top 914 and don't care about targa top stowage
Save weight (thinking track car)

So yeah, I can see it now, there are good reasons to use another method.

Not to mention the failure point stock mount brackets in the engine bay and the PITA nylon rollers that eventually need replacing - and include the potential for a violent R&R..

[Justinp71]

I'm also in the same boat. Just repaired my trunk hinge cups and want to do away with the torsion rods. I was going to do the Camp 914 struts. That's what my 996 has for the front hood, very common these days. Sounds like they don't last long?


914 GT prop, but its a very light lid-

https://pbase.com/9146gt/image/54417619

[Justinp71]

This is a great product, fiberglass, magnetic end. Works great on front hood.

@mlindner have any details?

[jcambo7]

This is a great product, fiberglass, magnetic end. Works great on front hood.

@mlindner have any details?

Probably would work for the rear as well but not in the same location as the picture. Would be hard to get to with the roof stowed in the trunk. The magnetic end wouldn’t have any where to prop against on the inside of the hood as well. Maybe reverse mounting it where the magnetic end goes to some place inside the trunk. Could work depending on positioning and if it gets in the way of roof top stowing.

As for the gas struts, it was too expensive for me especially seeing in my research quite a few posts of them failing fairly quickly. As I stated, I wanted a very simple and inexpensive method to hold the hood up that was easily replaceable or removable if needed.

The GT strut rod you posted would work but would need a second on the opposite side to prevent twisting of the hood.

[jcambo7]

God job on this - a question though, what is keeping the rod from moving at the top.. maybe you drilled a hole (and the rod is going thru that stop) ? or is the lid just resting on the pole's stop/end?

Also, just to verify - does the roof clear those lower brackets, swivels & bolts?

@Literati914 Thanks! Yes I drilled a 1/4” hole in the hood for the rod to go into and then it rests against the sleeve stop on the rod. I haven’t tried stowing the targa top to see the clearance. I am 100% certain they will be fine though. I will test that theory out and post a image of the clearance.

[jcambo7]

God job on this - a question though, what is keeping the rod from moving at the top.. maybe you drilled a hole (and the rod is going thru that stop) ? or is the lid just resting on the pole's stop/end?

Also, just to verify - does the roof clear those lower brackets, swivels & bolts?

@Literati914 Thanks! Yes I drilled a 1/4” hole in the hood for the rod to go into and then it rests against the sleeve stop on the rod. I haven’t tried stowing the targa top to see the clearance. I am 100% certain they will be fine though. I will test that theory out and post a image of the clearance.

@Literati914 here are images of the roof stowed and the clearance of the bolts. Fits perfectly with tons of room on each side.

[914werke]

Not to mention the failure point stock mount brackets in the engine bay and the PITA nylon rollers that eventually need replacing - and include the potential for a violent R&R..

I see a lot of cars & have noted that Id guess 50% or more nowoadays have rollers that are replaced with the metal or the smaller solid nylon rollers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Literati914]

[/b]@Literati914[/b] here are images of the roof stowed and the clearance of the bolts. Fits perfectly with tons of room on each side.

I like it! thanks for the pics. I'll probably do the same at some point.

[Literati914]

Not to mention the failure point stock mount brackets in the engine bay and the PITA nylon rollers that eventually need replacing - and include the potential for a violent R&R..

I see a lot of cars & have noted that Id guess 50% or more nowoadays have rollers that are replaced with the metal or the smaller solid nylon rollers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

@914werke I've seen so many project cars with the engine-side mounting brackets cracked or torn away all together, from the wall - I'd have to think most of that is caused by the back and forth stress/forces from the torsion rods over time. Including the latest project that I fixed (and went back with torsion rods) - 3 of my latest 914s have/had this issue to some extent but I could be wrong about the cause - no matter tho.. the prop rod just seems better to me and I'll be doing that next time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[930cabman]

God job on this - a question though, what is keeping the rod from moving at the top.. maybe you drilled a hole (and the rod is going thru that stop) ? or is the lid just resting on the pole's stop/end?

Also, just to verify - does the roof clear those lower brackets, swivels & bolts?

@Literati914 Thanks! Yes I drilled a 1/4” hole in the hood for the rod to go into and then it rests against the sleeve stop on the rod. I haven’t tried stowing the targa top to see the clearance. I am 100% certain they will be fine though. I will test that theory out and post a image of the clearance.

@Literati914 here are images of the roof stowed and the clearance of the bolts. Fits perfectly with tons of room on each side.

Lookin good, might add a castle nut to clean things up a bit.

[jcambo7]

God job on this - a question though, what is keeping the rod from moving at the top.. maybe you drilled a hole (and the rod is going thru that stop) ? or is the lid just resting on the pole's stop/end?

Also, just to verify - does the roof clear those lower brackets, swivels & bolts?

@Literati914 Thanks! Yes I drilled a 1/4” hole in the hood for the rod to go into and then it rests against the sleeve stop on the rod. I haven’t tried stowing the targa top to see the clearance. I am 100% certain they will be fine though. I will test that theory out and post a image of the clearance.

@Literati914 here are images of the roof stowed and the clearance of the bolts. Fits perfectly with tons of room on each side.

Lookin good, might add a castle nut to clean things up a bit.

Thanks! I am actually going to swap the bolt head around so the nut and threads are under the fender.

[jcambo7]

[/b]@Literati914[/b] here are images of the roof stowed and the clearance of the bolts. Fits perfectly with tons of room on each side.

I like it! thanks for the pics. I'll probably do the same at some point.

Thanks! You’re very welcome. That’s why I changed this thread to a DIY for this. I couldn’t find one by someone else and wanted the resource available easily. If you don’t have store access to a place with the hardware (especially the swivel rod ends) you can always use McMaster Carr. I would have used them if I didn’t have mclendons near by. I wasn’t even sure if they would have the stuff I needed until I looked.