D-Jet Conversion not going as planned., Car starts but will not run. Options

[emerygt350]

And I don't think the injector timing will matter this much. They are bank fire so half of them are shooting at the back of a closed valve under the best of conditions.

[rjames]

Just noticed that you stated early in the thread that it looks like someone used the Tangerine kit to rebuild your MPS. If that's the case, the diaphragm is likely fine since the kits haven't been around for that long. More likely that the rebuilder wasn't able to get the MPS case to seal properly as it can be tricky to do.

[sixnotfour]

no injection..

[slapshot]

I inserted a noid light on each injector wires, except the cold start injector, and they all lit up during crank. Does this indicate that the 123 distributor trigger wires are communicating to the ECU and the ECU is working properly?

Just noticed that you stated early in the thread that it looks like someone used the Tangerine kit to rebuild your MPS. If that's the case, the diaphragm is likely fine since the kits haven't been around for that long. More likely that the rebuilder wasn't able to get the MPS case to seal properly as it can be tricky to do.

I did open the body of the MPS and yes the diaphragm on the top is brass and looks like the one on the tangerine racing website. Maybe they all are brass, I don't know. Its definitely been rebuilt. When I put my ear up to it with vacuum, it sounded like it was leaking through the top vents. I taped them off and check and it is. With the tape, the vacuum just barely leaks at all.

no calibration necessary, make sure that you have good dwell and timing and fuel pressure as you crank the car, and that the trigger points are plugged in to start, we can work through this but many variables to deal with since it is a fresh installation. (you can also spray some brake clean into the throttle body to make sure that it keeps running to totally eliminate the ignition system

I have a 123 distributor so no dwell to mess with. Trigger points are plugged in. Starter fluid in the TB seems to just flood it. I agree, lots of variables. I'm 99% sure my timing is spot on since it was before I started this conversion but I'm getting to the point that I can't assume anything is correct. I have a fuel pressure gauge in line between the two fuel rails and the pressure is at 28.

You won't damage the engine. Adjusting the inner screw clockwise will lean out the mixture, counter-clockwise will richen the mixture. It's farily sensitive, which is why I only suggested 1/4-1/2 a turn, but you won't break anything if you go further. Note that you need the Tangerine Racing adjusting tool so that you don't also turn the outer screw that the inner screw sits in (not the outer screw you're talking about which is more commonly referred to as the full-load stop screw).

I'm not sure I follow on what is the full-load stop screw. Is that just the outer allen wrench nut? Here's a pic of the top of mine.

[Spoke]

Starter fluid in the TB seems to just flood it.

Does it run at all? Are you giving it 100% starter fluid as it is cranked or just short bursts while cranking? It would seem that some bit of starter fluid would make it run but too much might flood it.

[slapshot]

I sprayed starter fluid into an open TB for two or three seconds and cranked it over. FYI, my can of SF is pretty old. The injectors were still in and as long as they are working were injecting gas as well. This created what seemed like a flood result which required 10 or so second of cranking before the engine started to fire. After that it would crank to start then sputter and die a second or two later. When it does crank to start it's running very rough. I'll create a video tonight and share it so you can see what I mean.

[slapshot]

Here's a link to video of noid light test from last night. The distributor coil wire was remove so it wouldn't try to turn over during the test.

[rjames]

I'm not sure I follow on what is the full-load stop screw. Is that just the outer allen wrench nut? Here's a pic of the top of mine.

Yes, the outer most screw is the full load stop screw.



Regarding trying to fully seal it, check that the paper/fiber gasket is there. I usually apply a super thin coating of bearing grease on it. The 2 liter MPSs should also have metal spacer ring. The gasket goes between the diaphragm and the spacer. The picture below shows the metal ring and the gasket is underneath it.

[Superhawk996]

Tangerine directions

[slapshot]

I haven't pulled out the diaphragm on mine. I tried it get my finger nail under the metal space but I didn't want to damage it and wasn't able to pull it out to see what is underneath. It didn't appear to have a paper gasket but it could be so thin I didn't see it.

Can I just push on the inner screw to pop the diaphragm out? I suspect it would damage any gasket that was underneath it. Hopefully not. I would like to see if a little grease is all it needs to seal.

[emerygt350]

To adjust it, as others mentioned, you need the special tool from tangerine. Works awesome, does not cost much.

well maybe not need, but it makes it much easier, particularly while in the car.

[slapshot]

Here's a video of attemping startup..

[Artfrombama]

Here's a video of attemping startup..

I'm for sure not a 914 expert but....
Sounds to me like ignition timing is retarded or plug wires are connected wrong. What do the plugs look like?

[brant]

Here's a video of attemping startup..

I'm for sure not a 914 expert but....
Sounds to me like ignition timing is retarded or plug wires are connected wrong. What do the plugs look like?

Timing is my guess as well
You have the fuel and the spark…. So I’m betting timing

Distributors can be put in wrong


What is the timing mark saying and how does that compare to the 123 install instructions?

[slapshot]

Here's a video of attemping startup..

I'm for sure not a 914 expert but....
Sounds to me like ignition timing is retarded or plug wires are connected wrong. What do the plugs look like?

Timing is my guess as well
You have the fuel and the spark…. So I’m betting timing

Distributors can be put in wrong


What is the timing mark saying and how does that compare to the 123 install instructions?

I'm thinking you might be right. I didn't think they could go in wrong however. I'm going to pull it and see if the rotor can be repositioned. I didn't loosen or adjust the adjustment bracket on it and just dropped it right back in and since my paint mark that I made before removing was spot on I figured it was in right.

[emerygt350]

Sounds like really retarded timing. Sounds good otherwise so this might be good. Loosen that dizzy and twist it counterclockwise a good inch and give it a go.

[brant]

Go back to the basics
Pull the distributor

Put the motor on TDC
Verify number one valves are loose ( pull the VC)
Install the distributor pointing to number one

[sixnotfour]

switch the fuel fuel lines

[slapshot]

You all were right. I pulled the dist, set TDC and put it back in. I could turn the rotor which indicated an issue. I think it wasn't down far enough and in the groves and the rotor wasn't in the right spot. That is my best guess cause after I loosen the adjustment lock bracket I was able to push it down tight with the groves in place. Started right up. Idle is too high, 2300+ RPMs. Idle screw is all the way in. I put my finger over the intake of the AAV and it only dropped to 2100.

Link to car running.

[Artfrombama]

You all were right. I pulled the dist, set TDC and put it back in. I could turn the rotor which indicated an issue. I think it wasn't down far enough and in the groves and the rotor wasn't in the right spot. That is my best guess cause after I loosen the adjustment lock bracket I was able to push it down tight with the groves in place. Started right up. Idle is too high, 2300+ RPMs. Idle screw is all the way in. I put my finger over the intake of the AAV and it only dropped to 2100.

Link to car running.

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