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> Crumple zone, #4
930cabman
post Nov 4 2024, 05:48 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 3 2024, 01:05 PM) *

Yeah - sketchy but it isn’t terrible for an east coast car. Worse have been saved . . . At a cost.

Measure the tub carefully before you invest lots of time or $ into this chassis. I can’t imagine it having been hit that hard and not needing a pull on a frame rig to square it back up.


We have seen much worse (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I took a couple basic measurements and things look not terrible. As time allows I will open it up more and see what I am dealing with. Wondering if I can remove the creased portion, straighten it out and weld it back in place?
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Superhawk996
post Nov 4 2024, 09:13 PM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 4 2024, 07:48 PM) *

Wondering if I can remove the creased portion, straighten it out and weld it back in place?

The problem is that buckle indicates metal has moved substantially. Not just there but across the whole truck and probably in front of the buckle as well.

You’ve got to figure out where it moved before you can just hammer it out and expect to have it be square. Remember you’ve got to work in and measure in all three dimensions.

Somehow if you get exceedingly luckily it was crudely pulled to some degree on a frame rack when the did the lap repair.

When I had my 1st teener I had an incident that bent the front. If I remember right it was about $900 to pull it back around 1988. That was big $$ at the time! Though it was almost repaired perfectly there was still evidence of stretch and a minor buckle down in the bottom of the frunk.

Point being they may have pulled it already but didn’t take care of the buckled area due to time / cost. The only way to tell for sure is measure, measure, and measure some more.

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930cabman
post Nov 5 2024, 06:45 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 4 2024, 10:13 PM) *

QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 4 2024, 07:48 PM) *

Wondering if I can remove the creased portion, straighten it out and weld it back in place?

The problem is that buckle indicates metal has moved substantially. Not just there but across the whole truck and probably in front of the buckle as well.

You’ve got to figure out where it moved before you can just hammer it out and expect to have it be square. Remember you’ve got to work in and measure in all three dimensions.

Somehow if you get exceedingly luckily it was crudely pulled to some degree on a frame rack when the did the lap repair.

When I had my 1st teener I had an incident that bent the front. If I remember right it was about $900 to pull it back around 1988. That was big $$ at the time! Though it was almost repaired perfectly there was still evidence of stretch and a minor buckle down in the bottom of the frunk.

Point being they may have pulled it already but didn’t take care of the buckled area due to time / cost. The only way to tell for sure is measure, measure, and measure some more.


Yes, this repair will have some different challenges. I will be proceeding slowly and having made a career as a carpenter for many years, measure several times prior to cutting is the rule. Hoping to find another thread or two with a rear end impact.

BTW, update with your new digs?

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930cabman
post Nov 9 2024, 03:13 PM
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Quarter panel removed to repair poor lap joint

Attached Image

Inside fender panel should be a straight line. I am hoping this has not altered the suspension mounting locations (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Superhawk996
post Nov 9 2024, 08:06 PM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 5 2024, 08:45 PM) *


BTW, update with your new digs?

Not really much new yet to be worth a post and photos. Permanent roof is on. Windows ordered - maybe arrive around Thanksgiving. Garage doors in December sometime.

Just endless small details that don’t result in anything looking complete.

Look up Jeff Hails bring out the dead thread. He has a good underbody measurement template that you can print out and use to compare to your tub. Photos of it on my build thread too (post #51)

That really looks like it’s going to need some hydraulic pulling even if the suspension locations weren’t affected.
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930cabman
post Nov 10 2024, 12:23 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 9 2024, 09:06 PM) *

QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 5 2024, 08:45 PM) *


BTW, update with your new digs?

Not really much new yet to be worth a post and photos. Permanent roof is on. Windows ordered - maybe arrive around Thanksgiving. Garage doors in December sometime.

Just endless small details that don’t result in anything looking complete.

Look up Jeff Hails bring out the dead thread. He has a good underbody measurement template that you can print out and use to compare to your tub. Photos of it on my build thread too (post #51)

That really looks like it’s going to need some hydraulic pulling even if the suspension locations weren’t affected.


Endless small details, it never ends as you well know

Thanks for the info, so far as hydraulic pulling goes I have 0 experience. We shall see.

There is a frame shop somewhat local, maybe I will pay a visit
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930cabman
post Nov 11 2024, 01:14 PM
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Stopped at a local old school frame shop, the old timer says no problem.

I just need to have a running/driving car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Superhawk996
post Nov 11 2024, 07:42 PM
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Why running/driving? They should be able to work with a roller unless they are too lazy to push the tub in/out of the shop. Literally weighs nothing and can be pushed by a 7 (or 70 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ) year old.
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worn
post Nov 11 2024, 08:28 PM
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It is nice that I haven’t seen any chicken wire associated with the project. But let’s be fair. Suppose one was young, uninformed, or even older and uninformed yet you got hands on a 914. The outcome is gonna resemble the abilities to work or pay for work or even in some cases to believe that work has been done. I honor the people who bring these cars back from the brink. For now.
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930cabman
post Nov 12 2024, 01:22 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 11 2024, 08:42 PM) *

Why running/driving? They should be able to work with a roller unless they are too lazy to push the tub in/out of the shop. Literally weighs nothing and can be pushed by a 7 (or 70 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ) year old.


Probably too lazy (and old also) but I get a good sense from the owner. They have been at the same location for many years and the owner says no problem. The hulk needs to be running/driving anyway
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930cabman
post Nov 12 2024, 01:25 PM
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QUOTE(worn @ Nov 11 2024, 09:28 PM) *

It is nice that I haven’t seen any chicken wire associated with the project. But let’s be fair. Suppose one was young, uninformed, or even older and uninformed yet you got hands on a 914. The outcome is gonna resemble the abilities to work or pay for work or even in some cases to believe that work has been done. I honor the people who bring these cars back from the brink. For now.


Very true, with enough $$$$ we can accomplish just about anything. I have less than $1k in the hulk to date and repairing these is satisfying. not sure of what motor to use, I do have a stroker crank on the shelf (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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930cabman
post Nov 27 2024, 02:57 PM
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Attached Image

Drivers side portion of trunk floor, crumple did it's job

I am considering a diy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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930cabman
post Nov 27 2024, 03:00 PM
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Attached Image

Full width shot

Rear firewall appears undamaged
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Root_Werks
post Nov 27 2024, 04:51 PM
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Oh boy, now we're getting into the good stuff!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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Superhawk996
post Nov 27 2024, 11:42 PM
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Still haven’t measured? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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930cabman
post Nov 28 2024, 06:47 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 28 2024, 12:42 AM) *

Still haven’t measured? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)


Yes, but not from the measurements http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php

It appears the damage did not affect the suspension locations and the crumple did what was intended. However I have found about 3/4" comparing the damaged area vs the undamaged area. Youtube can make anyone an expert and I just may diy this repair. Looking into securing the chassis to my scissors lift and pulling from the lift. Also I am removing selective damaged sections prior to repair. Trunk floor was badly rusted, inner fenderwell was partly missing and kinked, ....

I would guess this car was rear ended at a reasonably low impact

Stay tuned
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930cabman
post Nov 28 2024, 09:48 AM
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Attached Image

The plan is remove some damaged(easily removable) metal to lessen the pull required
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Superhawk996
post Nov 28 2024, 12:05 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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930cabman
post Nov 30 2024, 01:09 PM
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We are planning to move some metal

Attached Image

Cheap, $100.

Looking to secure the chassis to my scissors lift and attaching a pull point from it

A lil push here, a lil pull there

I am lucky the damage is not extensive

Looking to source a bit a salvaged metal to replace kinked/bent stuff
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Superhawk996
post Nov 30 2024, 01:23 PM
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Be careful. Don’t pull your scissors lift over or bend it.

Hydraulics capable of developing lots of force. Use it wisely. Don’t be afraid to use the fire wrench to soften the metal in places to lessen the pull force needed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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