73 2.0 build, new 2.0 build carbs or FI Options

[ditster1]

Hey all, just purchased my first 914 73 2.0. the thing is literally straight and rust free so I'm going to do a complete drivetrain rebuild with suspension. looking to build a nice engine with good quality parts for I am building this to be my grandsons first Porsche he's 6 so i can enjoy it for a while. I am trying to decide on carbs or leave the fuel injection? car runs drives and idles great. need thoughts on engine build and suspension parts to use Thanks to all

[brant]

FI has a mild cam because the design of djet relies on a vacuum signal
That signal is inconsistent or dirty when a high lift cam is used or any valve overlap exists

My car is djet
It’s a good system
But limited by its technology to use a performance cam shaft

You cant mix a high performance cam with djet


A carb does not care.
And modern FI does not care either

But the cam is in the block and the decision of which cam you use will drive the induction

So you have to decide before you build

[fiacra]

Hey all, just purchased my first 914 73 2.0. the thing is literally straight and rust free so I'm going to do a complete drivetrain rebuild with suspension. looking to build a nice engine with good quality parts for I am building this to be my grandsons first Porsche he's 6 so i can enjoy it for a while. I am trying to decide on carbs or leave the fuel injection? car runs drives and idles great. need thoughts on engine build and suspension parts to use Thanks to all

Plenty of past discussions on this very topic, with lots of opinions on both sides. I've had both. The carbs made the garage stink of gas and they did not have a choke, necessitating that you stay on the gas until warm. They also didn't like sitting for a while, and since I have a few cars that was not ideal. I found I had to put more time and effort into them. Both of my cars now are FI, one L-Jet and one D-Jet. Once dialed in they start quickly, run well, and don't seem to need anything. The key (in my opinion) is to know the principles and components of the system, get it well sorted, and have a few parts on the shelf just in case. These are 50 years old now so you have to plan for some problems coming up. I think it's just preference and comfort with the system, and I bet you can guess my preference. Ultimately it's whatever gets you back on the road and driving. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mepstein]

I would rather have good working d-jet than carbs (had both) but if I was building a performance T4, I would go modern FI.

[Ishley]

I built my 72 1.7 to a 2056 running DJet. It works well. Starts easy… performs as a good street machine etc.

I rebuilt all the suspension, bushings, rear springs, Bilstein struts & shocks, bearings and all the brake components. I added a front sway bar (some welding here) and welded in the brackets for the rear sway bar which I don’t have yet. Also installed a turbo tie rod kit. I rebuilt the pedal cluster and installed all new shift bushings.

The car handles well and now that I’ve driven it a few thousand miles the suspension is not quite so stiff… so that’s good too. I didn’t do anything wild… just stuck with the basics and I’m happy with the results. A fun car to drive and it will be even better after I rebuild the transmission this winter.

[ditster1]

Thanks' for all the comments, I think I will tear it all down and see what I have. I would really like some decent power so not sure if I can do it with the D-Jet we are so lucky to have access to people who have been there and pop's always said talk to those that know or it might cost a lot more dough

[technicalninja]

car runs drives and idles great.

I'd do a "base line" on that engine.

Adjust valves.
Check/replace/clean plugs. Seat lightly, you will be pulling them out again.
Inspect ignition stuff.
Set dwell and timing properly.

Drive it with vigor till fully warm. 20 minutes.

Pull plugs
Do compression and leak down tests on engine.

Install mechanical oil pressure gauge and take reading at idle, 1500, 3000 rpm both hot and cold.

Get those numbers BEFORE you start planning ANY engine job.

Repairing 50-year-old cast aluminum engines is challenging now days.
Many machine shops have forgotten how.
Good parts can be expensive and hard to acquire.

For stock use the engine you have now might be fine.

A properly rebuilt T4 will be more expensive than you expect.

I'd take a harsh look at what you have now as the first step...

Estimate prices for this stuff

Minor rebuild 2k parts/machine shop, re-ring, reuse heads
Normal rebuild 5k New heads, pistons, jugs, improved rods
Nice rebuild starts at 10K This will make 150+ HP

These are parts/machine shop estimates. you will have to do all of the work yourself.

There are turnkey packages available.

2056
https://pmbperformance.com/products/pmb-200...che-914-1970-76

2258
https://pmbperformance.com/products/pmb-225...e-914-4-1970-76

And then there is Raby...
Top dog!
Very expensive. His start at 20K and only go up.
Raby's engine have NO warranty but don't appear to need one...

You actually can spend MORE than 30K on a VW type 4!

Serious about T4 innards? LN engineering is a top source.
https://lnengineering.com/

[930cabman]

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Sounds like nothing is currently broke. Find a decent core engine and build it up with your choice of carbs/FI or go the PMB 2258 route. I'll bet it might be your best performance value out there and save the original engine for 10 years when your grandson can take over