Repairing the main seal leak, Finally got to the first part of it. Options

[mmichalik]

I was able to get some time this weekend, at the cost of all of the household chores, to pull the motor so I can start repairing the main seal leak.
I was a bit nervous about doing it for the first time but, It was relatively straight forward and much easier then I thought it would be.
Hopefully I can get back to the job this weekend so we can button this thing up and I can start driving it again.
Thanks to @ChrisFoley for the engine lift plate. Thing worked like a charm!
Here are a couple pictures:

[mmichalik]

Dropped the engine so I can fix the oil leak

[JeffBowlsby]

While you are in ther you have to at least get a valve adjustment, and what else can you do that will save you time later?

;)

[mmichalik]

While you are in ther you have to at least get a valve adjustment, and what else can you do that will save you time later?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Great suggestions. I will do just that.
Thanks @JeffBowlsby

[rjames]

I'd also do the oil cooler seals. Although, based on how clean everything looks, I'm' guessing you don't need them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[JeffBowlsby]

Unless you know they are recently changed, if it were me I would also replace the front & rear main seals, the front trans shaft seal and inspect the clutch disk and first/reverse gear assembly

[mmichalik]

The entire unit, from front to back, has probably less than 200 miles on it since the rebuild of the engine and transmission. Which I had done by people who definitely know what they are doing and is why it's so clean right now.
Checking the valves, while it's out is a good idea. The other pieces should be brand new.
The rear main seal was not put in with a tool, just by hand and I think that's the culprit. Particularly since the hand that put it in was unskilled (read = Mine) when we put the clutch on and mated the transmission to the engine.
I will eyeball everything that has been mentioned though, just to make sure.

[Jack Standz]

When you put the new seal in, this tool helps get things lined-up properly:

https://gowesty.com/products/rear-main-flyw...=41426745753765

And, you should check the clutch disk. If it's contaminated with oil, best to replace it now.

[mmichalik]

When you put the new seal in, this tool helps get things lined-up properly:

https://gowesty.com/products/rear-main-flyw...=41426745753765

And, you should check the clutch disk. If it's contaminated with oil, best to replace it now.

That's the one I purchased already. Glad to see I grabbed the right thing.
I've ordered a new clutch disk as well. If the amount of oil that spilled out is any indication, it will probably need to be replaced and if not, I'm building a new engine that I can use it on.

[930cabman]

Might check the trans input shaft also for leakage

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) on knowing how to drop the engine / trans / exhaust / muffler as an assembly. This is the easiest way to do it in my opinion.

[mmichalik]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) on knowing how to drop the engine / trans / exhaust / muffler as an assembly. This is the easiest way to do it in my opinion.

Thanks! It just seemed like the most logical way to do it.
Now, I just have to wait for parts to arrive. Hopefully I will be able pull things apart and get ready for the new parts this weekend.

[technicalninja]

Raby does case mods to help the RMS housing drain. He puts a little V in the parting line at the bottom.

The original set up has a drain as well. It's just higher than it needs to be.

Make SURE the original drain path is OPEN or you will be doing this again!

Best "practice" is a large drain on the bottom and a smaller air vent on the top.

The OEM has only the drain about halfway up the recess.

[bkrantz]

Welcome to the drop the engine club. If you do it 2 or 3 more times, it will become a normal reflex for just about any reason.

[porschetub]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) on knowing how to drop the engine / trans / exhaust / muffler as an assembly. This is the easiest way to do it in my opinion.

Thanks! It just seemed like the most logical way to do it.
Now, I just have to wait for parts to arrive. Hopefully I will be able pull things apart and get ready for the new parts this weekend.

Never used seal installer but up to you if not confident on a replacement fitting ,IMO its more important what seal you use , I won't touch anything that isn't a known brand such as Kaco ,Elring etc,I avoid Victor Reinz as found a poor fit in my 911 motor case to the point I have no trust now, they do make great gaskets however.
A good lick of motor oil on the crank and seal lip and a small bit on the OD of the seal helps it go in better you will be fine .

[mmichalik]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) on knowing how to drop the engine / trans / exhaust / muffler as an assembly. This is the easiest way to do it in my opinion.

Thanks! It just seemed like the most logical way to do it.
Now, I just have to wait for parts to arrive. Hopefully I will be able pull things apart and get ready for the new parts this weekend.

Never used seal installer but up to you if not confident on a replacement fitting ,IMO its more important what seal you use , I won't touch anything that isn't a known brand such as Kaco ,Elring etc,I avoid Victor Reinz as found a poor fit in my 911 motor case to the point I have no trust now, they do make great gaskets however.
A good lick of motor oil on the crank and seal lip and a small bit on the OD of the seal helps it go in better you will be fine .

I have the Elring seal for this job. The one I had in there was from GoWesty but like I said, I'm sure we damaged it putting it in.
Hopefully, it's "2nd time is a charm" on this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Pay close attention to the flywheel sealing surface. If you have a groove there - it will never seal properly regardless of what seal you use.

[930cabman]

Welcome to the drop the engine club. If you do it 2 or 3 more times, it will become a normal reflex for just about any reason.

"normal", I joined the club figuring you guys were all nuts and hoped I might fit right in

[mmichalik]

Pay close attention to the flywheel sealing surface. If you have a groove there - it will never seal properly regardless of what seal you use.

As it turned out, the sealing surface on the flywheel was marked pretty badly. Not sure if it was a casting problem (because it kind of looks like that) or if it was rust but, it was definitely deep.
I ended up ordering a new one from AA Performance and grabbed a couple of other bits while I was doing that.
Hopefully they will all be here by Friday so we can put it back together and get it back in the car. I wanna drive it!

[Ishley]

Check that new flywheel carefully. I got the wrong one from AA and it took me a bit to figure it out. They fixed it but an extra week of delays.