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> Repairing the main seal leak, Finally got to the first part of it.
Superhawk996
post Dec 1 2024, 07:51 PM
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Yeah that big ‘un looks like a casting inclusion but it isn’t where the seal lip rides.

However, the other areas of the flywheel look like rust pitting got to it including the area where the seal lip rides.

I think you made the right choice to get a new flywheel.

Be sure to recheck crankshaft end play with the new flywheel. Don’t assume it will remain unchanged.
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mmichalik
post Dec 2 2024, 12:31 AM
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One of the things I ordered was a dial indicator, just for that purpose. Plus a few new spacers as well.
Hopefully I got everything covered
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Superhawk996
post Dec 2 2024, 08:08 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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StarBear
post Dec 2 2024, 09:12 AM
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QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 14 2024, 06:58 AM) *

Might check the trans input shaft also for leakage

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I believe that’s the source my small leak (trans fluid).

Question for the community: If replacing that trans seal best to replace the main rear seal too, or leave it alone as it’s not leaking?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Geezer914
post Dec 2 2024, 09:40 AM
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QUOTE(StarBear @ Dec 2 2024, 10:12 AM) *

QUOTE(930cabman @ Nov 14 2024, 06:58 AM) *

Might check the trans input shaft also for leakage

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I believe that’s the source my small leak (trans fluid).

Question for the community: If replacing that trans seal best to replace the main rear seal too, or leave it alone as it’s not leaking?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


As the old saying goes, if you don't disturb shit, it won't stink! Don't go looking for problems that don't exist.
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technicalninja
post Dec 2 2024, 10:13 AM
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Wow, I'm exactly opposite to Geezer.

If you have it all apart and short-change the job it just means you'll get to do it again...

Anything rubber that is more than 20 years old should be automatically replaced when the unit is torn down.

Now, finding a good RMS for a T4 looks like a bit of a crap-shot. It seems the quality of the newer stuff has dropped off significantly.

Does anyone know of a "safe" brand of RMS today?

Because of this, if the RMS is not leaking and is less than 20 years old, I would probably leave it alone...
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