Hooking up the horn wire on a Momo 8002 steering hub?, Got the right Momo hub (8002) for my '74 914-4 but how to connect the horn button/wire? |
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Hooking up the horn wire on a Momo 8002 steering hub?, Got the right Momo hub (8002) for my '74 914-4 but how to connect the horn button/wire? |
Jezibel |
Dec 2 2024, 05:12 PM
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#1
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Das Echte POORSCHE Fahrer Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 21-January 24 From: Northern California Member No.: 27,868 Region Association: Northern California |
G'day all. Got a question for someone with prior experience or knowledge on how to connect the stock 914-4 steering wheel horn wire to the Momo Steering wheel hub (boss). I'm installing a Momo black 'Tuner' model steering wheel and the 8002 Momo hub/boss is supposed to be correct for replacing the stock wheel assembly/hub, but I'll be damned if I have a clue as to how to connect the positive horn wire so as to make a proper press-to-honk connection, since the Momo 8002 hub/boss does not have a connection I can see for this purpose. I have the correct Porsche horn button for use on the Momo hub/boss (to replace the Momo horn button and of course it has a connection to hook up the (+) wire, but where's the opposite end connection on the hub?!
Sorry of this all seems a bit too sophomoric for belief, but I'm clueless! Everything seems to go together quite smoothly (the new hub, the new wheel, et al) but where's the bloody horn wire connection supposed to come from?) Somewhere along the line, I missed out on that crucial information (and of course, there's no step-by-step instruction that comes with the Momo parts). This assembly (Momo wheel, hub/boss) came to me from AUTO ATLANTA, so as far as all that goes, smooth sailing....but no horn!? HELP! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) PS: Tried YOUTUBE, where I was sure someone had posted a video that covers this item, but NOTHING!. Sorry! PSS: Incredible how much more the stock Porsche wheel assembly/hub weighs, compared to the featherweight Momo replacement components! Feels like Porsche made the stock unit from solid pig-iron! I mean, yeah, keep the manufacturing cost down...but they could have made it LOTS lighter, IMO! Thanks in advance. As usual, anyone who supplies the (correct) winning answer to this dilemma wins a hand-made crocheted back tub (and I don't mean a 356, here!). |
jim_hoyland |
Dec 2 2024, 05:23 PM
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#2
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,545 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Kinda went though this once. Pull the button and seen whether grounding the wire energizes the horn ( honk, honk )
If it honks, reattach the wire to the button. My issues was the copper looking wire on the horn button was pushed in and interrupted the groundings Attached thumbnail(s) |
infraredcalvin |
Dec 2 2024, 08:35 PM
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#3
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Distracted Member Group: Members Posts: 1,572 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California |
It’s been a while, but there should be 2 tabs on the back of your new horn button, horn wire from car attaches to one, another wire is needed to attach to the other tab on the horn, then to the tab on the silver ring that comes with your wheel (see it in the picture). The silver ring gets mounted between the hub and the steering wheel and is then grounded. Press horn, it completes the ground connection and your horn beeps…
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sportlicherFahrer |
Dec 3 2024, 08:26 AM
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#4
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Nothing to see here. Group: Members Posts: 1,109 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
If you can, please post pictures of what you're working with.
The hot should be the original contact ring with a wire going through the wheel hub that's held on by 3 screws. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com-3945-1733236004.1.jpg) Remove that from the stock wheel and it SHOULD be able to be attached to the bottom of the MOMO 8002. I have had clearance issues where the mounting bosses were too tall, so I had to shave some down to avoid the ring from getting jammed against the column face. Should look like this when mounted: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-3945-1733236005.2.jpg) I've only worked with the horn buttons that have two contacts. One is typically labeled for ground, the other is the hot. If not labeled, the one in the middle is usually the hot. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.akr-performance.com-3945-1733236006.3.jpg) There are two versions of the 8002 hub. One is solid, and one is a cage with a rubber boot around it. The grounding is accomplished differently on each one IIRC. Which one do you have? |
jim_hoyland |
Dec 4 2024, 11:25 AM
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#5
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,545 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
My horn button only used one wire. The horn button is a ground circuit |
Jezibel |
Dec 5 2024, 05:37 PM
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#6
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Das Echte POORSCHE Fahrer Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 21-January 24 From: Northern California Member No.: 27,868 Region Association: Northern California |
If you can, please post pictures of what you're working with. The hot should be the original contact ring with a wire going through the wheel hub that's held on by 3 screws. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com-3945-1733236004.1.jpg) Remove that from the stock wheel and it SHOULD be able to be attached to the bottom of the MOMO 8002. I have had clearance issues where the mounting bosses were too tall, so I had to shave some down to avoid the ring from getting jammed against the column face. Should look like this when mounted: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-3945-1733236005.2.jpg) I've only worked with the horn buttons that have two contacts. One is typically labeled for ground, the other is the hot. If not labeled, the one in the middle is usually the hot. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.akr-performance.com-3945-1733236006.3.jpg) There are two versions of the 8002 hub. One is solid, and one is a cage with a rubber boot around it. The grounding is accomplished differently on each one IIRC. Which one do you have? Grüße, SportlicherFahrer! I plunged into this little problem this afternoon and, after several 'round-the'block' spins (post-mounting the contact disc from the bottom of my old stock OEM steering wheel assembly onto the base of that solid cast Momo-compatible steering hub) and hooking up the horn button to the fitted Momo steering wheel), two things became clear: 1) the horn button works exactly as it should, but 2) strangely when I turned the wheel to go around a street corner, the horn would briefly sound of its own volition (uncommanded). Double-Plus-Ungood! OK, thinking cap firmly on my head, I finally figured out that that solid Momo steering-wheel boss/hub casting was slightly uneven along the bottom surface. As a result, at a certain position (such as during a turn), the contact ring wouldn't ground properly (hence the uncommanded beep). This problem isn't all that atypical, from what I have read elsewhere (a supposition further supported by your own story of experiencing grounding problems due to an unevenness on its base, which required a bit of minor machining to correct). Since all I have available here is an old (large) file and a box-cutter knife to plane off unevenness and/or irregularities on the hub's metal-casting bottom surface, I did the best I could with given tools. I also noticed that the pre-drilled holes that the hub came with aren't perfectly aligned with the stock OEM VW contact ring! That required some further delicate 're-drilling' so as to align them more suitably! I've reassembled everything back together and tomorrow I'll do another short spin around the block so as to see if these adjustments resolve the random horn bleets! It's never a simple, straightforward process, is it? Unless Momo sold a hub boss that was perfectly machined the way it ought to be, these sorts of anomalies must be (I guess) expected! After-market suppliers all generally leave such small but crucial details as mis-alignments and improper drilling distances in their products to the buyer. If this were a complete assembly made in good old Deutschland by Black Forest elves (and sold as a set), we would never have to cope with such small (but frustrating) headaches! I have enough headaches dealing with a standard-sized two-car garage that wifie claims half of (to harbor her own car) and do not need or want to require a machine shop cramped into my pathetically constrained part of that garage! One of these days I need to make it very clear to wifie (she's Chinese) that a man's garage is his sacrosanct, exclusive turf ("female violators will be prosecuted"), but our dog house here is already full-to-overflowing with a large Siberian Husky who, sweet as she is, would likely resent the unannounced intrusion! Sigh! And so it goes, I guess! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Thanks awfully for your help and advice on this. Such 'second opinions' are often all that is needed to effect a cure or prompt a suitably functional correction! Sometimes it's tough being a solitary Fourteener in this 911 neck of the Sacramento woods! |
sportlicherFahrer |
Dec 6 2024, 11:02 AM
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#7
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Nothing to see here. Group: Members Posts: 1,109 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Tacoma, WA Member No.: 3,945 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
And so it goes, I guess! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Thanks awfully for your help and advice on this. Such 'second opinions' are often all that is needed to effect a cure or prompt a suitably functional correction! Sometimes it's tough being a solitary Fourteener in this 911 neck of the Sacramento woods! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Glad to hear it is mostly worked out! I also had one that made uncommanded contact at some point while turning. I forget what the fix was, but if IIRC part of the cause was a worn out upper column bushing or bearing that allowed the base flange of the hub to ever-so-slightly touch the copper contact finger on the face of the column head. |
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