LN Engineering 2563 Kit Options

[JimVG]

Has anyone here built a 914 Type 4 using the LN Engineering 2563-190 kit?

[Root_Werks]

Hoping someone will chime in. Years back, really wanted to build a "2.5" 4cyl.

[zig-n-zag]

I bought a 2563-190 engine kit from Jake Raby back in 2006.

I’ve not been able to devote the time to put it together as other things in life have taken priority.

What do you need to know? I hope I can answer any questions you have.

[JimVG]

I bought a 2563-190 engine kit from Jake Raby back in 2006.

I’ve not been able to devote the time to put it together as other things in life have taken priority.

What do you need to know? I hope I can answer any questions you have.

Thanks for the reply! I am strongly considering this kit. I would like to know how this engine performs, choices regarding induction (carbs vs EFI), exhaust, oil coolers, DTM, etc.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

I bought a 2563-190 engine kit from Jake Raby back in 2006.

I’ve not been able to devote the time to put it together as other things in life have taken priority.

What do you need to know? I hope I can answer any questions you have.

Wow ... almost a 20 year time capsule kit. I hope life allows you to get to it sometime soon.

[JOEPROPER]

If you go with carbs, I have big Dells that are new. I'm not using them so if you need, let me know. Good luck with your project!

[r_towle]

I have a 2.6
Carbs were required at the time I built it over 10 years ago, but I’m going to move over to ITB with some aftermarket EFI system. The more recent EFI kits seem to better tested nowadays.

For a kit, jake makes sure everything fits..harder todo now because many parts are lower quality.

For power, my 2.6 got just over 200HP on a dyno.
It is not streetable (think 5-6500 rpm’s) so I’m going to pull it back apart now that I no longer race, and put a milder camshaft in place. It will make somewhere between 150-175 hp

Is it worth it? Well for me it was a challenge to get 200 hp from a type 4 motor.

[r_towle]

No matter what you choose, measure everything to ensure it’s round, and the correct size, particularly the pistons and cylinders

[zig-n-zag]

I had Jake do the engine prep which was wrist pin fit, ring gap for the nickies, and side play on the rods, and his full race-balance spec.

I don’t know if the rod bearings need trimming to clear the rod journal fillets, and that’s something to check.

I went with the DTM fan shroud kit and added a tig welded and balanced type 1 super beetle fan. The fan that came with the engine kit didn’t have welded fins.

I bought new Spanish 44mmIDF carbs from Jake, and upgraded the venturis to 38mm from CB. I also have a set of Spanish 48mm IDF’s ready to go. Those have the stock 40mm venturis fitted, but thinking of adding the grooved 40mm venturis from Berg and taller 6 inch air horns from CB for more air velocity and capturing more fuel fog.

The coated header is 1-3/4” 4-2-1 built by CFR, and the muffler is the twin center mount pipe version.

Jake provided the ignition system, Mallory unilite dizzy and the 685 amplifier box. Ignition wires are from CFR.

I planned to stay with a wet sump oiling, but broke down last month and bought a 914/6 oil tank from Ben to keep my options open on going dry sump.

[technicalninja]

I had Jake do the engine prep which was wrist pin fit, ring gap for the nickies, and side play on the rods, and his full race-balance spec.

I don’t know if the rod bearings need trimming to clear the rod journal fillets, and that’s something to check.

I went with the DTM fan shroud kit and added a tig welded and balanced type 1 super beetle fan. The fan that came with the engine kit didn’t have welded fins.

I bought new Spanish 44mmIDF carbs from Jake, and upgraded the venturis to 38mm from CB. I also have a set of Spanish 48mm IDF’s ready to go. Those have the stock 40mm venturis fitted, but thinking of adding the grooved 40mm venturis from Berg and taller 6 inch air horns from CB for more air velocity and capturing more fuel fog.

The coated header is 1-3/4” 4-2-1 built by CFR, and the muffler is the twin center mount pipe version.

Jake provided the ignition system, Mallory unilite dizzy and the 685 amplifier box. Ignition wires are from CFR.

I planned to stay with a wet sump oiling, but broke down last month and bought a 914/6 oil tank from Ben to keep my options open on going dry sump.

OK that's SERIOUS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

Please make a build thread when you do it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[930cabman]

How are these large modifications long term?

Better value with a /6 conversion?

[zig-n-zag]

I wonder if you folks remember in the Paddock the racer who had broken his crankshaft in half, rebuilt it with all new parts and suffered the same thing again?

Same thing happened to me way back in 1989, though my engines were type 1 draw thru turbos. Yep, 2 engines in a row, broken cranks and major rod journal damage.

The cause was because they were not treated with tufftriding (at the time) or the highest level of heat treatment which is nitriding. The industry standard of induction-hardening cannot sustain anything over 6000rpm.

Nitriding a crank is done before final machining to size. If the crank has already been machined to size, cryogenic treatment is an acceptable way to strengthen and to prevent cracking the crank and destroying the engine.

The rod journals suffer oil starvation because the non-hardened crank bends and flexes over 6000rpm. This puts stress on the conrods running out of alignment and causes the pistons to scuff the barrels.

[zig-n-zag]

Good friend of mine built a 2.7 6 for his ‘77 911, E cams, S pistons, and

40IDAs with 34 Venturis and correct distributor. Got to drive it like I stole

it, but I couldn’t get over how thirsty that engine was. His ‘83 with the 3.0

CIS has strong torque down low, but not very exciting. I’m sure a 3.2

would satisfy me. But let me try a 200hp type 4 first.

[JimVG]

No matter what you choose, measure everything to ensure it’s round, and the correct size, particularly the pistons and cylinders

Thanks for the input!

[JimVG]

I had Jake do the engine prep which was wrist pin fit, ring gap for the nickies, and side play on the rods, and his full race-balance spec.

I don’t know if the rod bearings need trimming to clear the rod journal fillets, and that’s something to check.

I went with the DTM fan shroud kit and added a tig welded and balanced type 1 super beetle fan. The fan that came with the engine kit didn’t have welded fins.

I bought new Spanish 44mmIDF carbs from Jake, and upgraded the venturis to 38mm from CB. I also have a set of Spanish 48mm IDF’s ready to go. Those have the stock 40mm venturis fitted, but thinking of adding the grooved 40mm venturis from Berg and taller 6 inch air horns from CB for more air velocity and capturing more fuel fog.

The coated header is 1-3/4” 4-2-1 built by CFR, and the muffler is the twin center mount pipe version.

Jake provided the ignition system, Mallory unilite dizzy and the 685 amplifier box. Ignition wires are from CFR.

I planned to stay with a wet sump oiling, but broke down last month and bought a 914/6 oil tank from Ben to keep my options open on going dry sump.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. As you are most likely aware, Jake sold his “Air Cooled Technology” business to LN Engineering who now sells Jake’s Type 4 kits. I am going to have them do all the case prep work and coating.

[Chris914n6]

Subaru makes a 2.5L that is significantly cheaper, includes FI, and is more reliable. Also has an option to add a modern transmission with a smooth cable shift.

Plus when you get bored with it you can upgrade to a 2.5L with turbo.

Or you can choose a sweet 3L 6 version.

Has anyone here built a 914 Type 4 using the LN Engineering 2563-190 kit?

[930cabman]

Subaru makes a 2.5L that is significantly cheaper, includes FI, and is more reliable. Also has an option to add a modern transmission with a smooth cable shift.

Plus when you get bored with it you can upgrade to a 2.5L with turbo.

Or you can choose a sweet 3L 6 version.

Has anyone here built a 914 Type 4 using the LN Engineering 2563-190 kit?

but it's a Subaru

[zig-n-zag]

The camshaft in the engine kit is the 163/86b. What makes this cam

different is the 104* lobe centers. The dual valve springs will need to be

cryogenic treated so they can maintain proper tension to the valves and

hold the lifters to the cam. If not, the valve hits the seat a little off,

Damaging its ability to seal, there by losing power. Left to continue, it will

Wear on the valve guide and valve stem, and eventually having the valve

Heads touching each other while opening and closing. A clue to having the

Valve springs lose tension is an increase in valve lash. This is critical if you

Want to run real big valves like 48 intake and 38 exhaust.

[technicalninja]

The camshaft in the engine kit is the 163/86b. What makes this cam

different is the 104* lobe centers. The dual valve springs will need to be

cryogenic treated so they can maintain proper tension to the valves and

hold the lifters to the cam. If not, the valve hits the seat a little off,

Damaging its ability to seal, there by losing power. Left to continue, it will

Wear on the valve guide and valve stem, and eventually having the valve

Heads touching each other while opening and closing. A clue to having the

Valve springs lose tension is an increase in valve lash. This is critical if you

Want to run real big valves like 48 intake and 38 exhaust.

Not sure I understand some of this...

"Valve heads hitting" and "gaining lash from weak springs".

[zig-n-zag]

In the long term, how long will a Porsche 6 last compared with the Type 4?

Originally, I wanted to do a 2.7MFI 6. Collected the parts, 7R, 915, then

Priced the MFI set up and choked. Decided then and there what might be

More fun for me. Using the highest quality parts will yield the longest life.

Not going overboard on too much cam, too much carburatiopn, and too

Compression will make for a long lasting engine.