LN Engineering 2563 Kit Options

[914werke]

105 x 74 ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) Is this dual plug? Thats a helluva flame front

[zig-n-zag]

The valve lash increased so to find out why I removed the cylinder head to

Inspect. The combustion chamber is pressurized and find that the valve

To seat seal is now at 88%. The valve and seat are lapped to restore seal.

The valve spring is removed and placed in a Rimac spring tester to test the

Tension at installed height and at full lift. So the valve spring had lost

Tension and had collapsed. If left un-checked, coupled with the funky

Timing of the 163/86b with both valves opened at the same time, Jake

Made mention of the possibility for the valve heads coming into

Contact with each other. My version of the LE200 has the old syle

Standard dual springs. The new springs in the latest verision of the

LE200 uses the bee hive springs which keep better control of the valve

And eliminate spring harmonics. The new LE200 heads also have

Larger 46mm intake valves, don’t recall what the exhaust valve size is.

[zig-n-zag]

I have single plug heads. Going to a dual plug would allow a half point

Drop in compression ratio. My target compression is 9.5 to 1. Using

Nickies and going dual plug would get me down to 8 to 1. At that

Compression ratio, all I need is 96 octane to run with no cooling or

Over heating problems. Going dual plug will also allow more or less

Timing advance, and maybe smaller main jets.

[zig-n-zag]

The crank is a DPR 78.4mm welded counter weighted. Rod journals are

Vw type 1. Con rods are CB 5.4” h-beam. The rod bolts are 5/16” ARP

8700 series which I will be replacing with NOS Carrillo SPS bolts. The ARP

Bolt torque at 28lbs with bolt stretch at .005/.006, but the SPS torque spec

Is 48lbs at the same amount of bolt stretch. The rods have been cryoed

Treated by Jake, but not the crank. The bore is 102mm Nickies with JE

Slipper skirt pistons, 2618 material.

[technicalninja]

@zig-n-zag

Sounds like an ass kicking set up!

Do you have any pictures?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)



I'd check with Jake (if you can) about changing the rod bolts.

I believe (and may be wrong) that the rods are torqued up before the treatment and changing torque MIGHT create complications.

If one of my customers almost doubled torque on anything that I provided without running it by me first I'd be pissed!

It is hard to imagine an H-Beam material failure (cryo or not) at the power levels of this engine.

This was all available 18 years ago?


Please, please tell us what the kit cost back then...

Make us WEEP...

[Superhawk996]

Subaru makes a 2.5L that is significantly cheaper, includes FI, and is more reliable. Also has an option to add a modern transmission with a smooth cable shift.

Plus when you get bored with it you can upgrade to a 2.5L with turbo.

Or you can choose a sweet 3L 6 version.

Has anyone here built a 914 Type 4 using the LN Engineering 2563-190 kit?

but it's a Subaru

Well technically it’s a Porsharu. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[914werke]

The crank is a DPR 78.4mm . The bore is 102mm

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) 2562

[JimVG]

In the long term, how long will a Porsche 6 last compared with the Type 4?

Originally, I wanted to do a 2.7MFI 6. Collected the parts, 7R, 915, then

Priced the MFI set up and choked. Decided then and there what might be

More fun for me. Using the highest quality parts will yield the longest life.

Not going overboard on too much cam, too much carburatiopn, and too

Compression will make for a long lasting engine.

Very much appreciate that information. I believe that the LE-200 heads accommodate the problematic conditions that you have pointed out. I will make LN aware of these concerns and report back on their response.

[JimVG]

I have researched the flat 6 conversion options, and could not justify a reasonable rebuild cost as 6 cylinder parts/components are significantly more expensive.

Please comment on current flat 6 experience and costs.

[mepstein]

I have researched the flat 6 conversion options, and could not justify a reasonable rebuild cost as 6 cylinder parts/components are significantly more expensive.

Please comment on current flat 6 experience and costs.

Good running 3.0 12-16k
Good running 3.2 16-20k
Good running 3.6 20-30k

914-6 conversion parts $10-20k.
Rebuilt almost any six at our shop, $15-25k for parts, $12.5k labor.

The six conversions never make financial sense. It’s all about a want, not a need.

Restorations, whether it’s a car or an engine are always going to be financially wrong but that never stopped me or many of my customers from pursuing our dreams.

[burton73]

I don't know what to tell you on this 2562 kit but want to point out that Raby 2270 is a monster and about 180 horsepower. Worked on a rebuild of one of his 18 years old engines that spun a bearing after so many years of service. I think this would save you some money.



Best Bob B

[technicalninja]

I have researched the flat 6 conversion options, and could not justify a reasonable rebuild cost as 6 cylinder parts/components are significantly more expensive.

Please comment on current flat 6 experience and costs.

I'm a fabricator/conversion type of guy.

I'd prefer to stay T4 on a nice 75 I own but...

The cost per HP is too high on the T4 IMO. The Porsche 6 is even worse.

These air-cooled engines are far less forgiving regarding tune.

You have to be "spot on" with a T4 or disaster is in your future.

As for conversions the Subaru 4/6 looks like the best "bang for the buck".

I've been an import car technician for 4 decades and have done one too many head gaskets on them. Actually, I've done far more than "one to many".

Subaru fixed their issues, and they are better now.
They still get "deck plates" pressed into them when they are built for big boost!

I'm just NOT a Subaru guy...

My current candidates are the water-cooled Porsche 6 (still expensive) and the GM LGX high feature V6 (Camaros and RWD Cadillacs). This motor can be had used for 2K.
335 hp and a torque curve that looks fake. The VVT and direct injection gives that more than 250lbs/ft over a 5K range.

The LGX has not been done by anyone and is a technically challenging job.
Might be stupid!
Might not fit!

One IMPORTANT thing to remember is that the Germans tend to re-use stuff that works. There are a BUNCH of VAG (Volkswagen Auto Group) engines that will bolt up to the 901 transmissions.
Even the Bentley twin turbo W12 is supposed to mount up fine... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

So, there might be a decent 4 or 6 cylinder VAG engine to use as a conversion donor.

I've found having the entire donor car for conversions is the way to go.
Buying a stripped engine from a junkyard and then tracking down the missing pieces is a PIA!

And I agree with Mepstein! Even doing it all yourself is NOT a financially sound plan.
You might get your "cost" back, but your time will be worth nothing...

You've got to love doing this stuff!