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> crank no start perplexed, what else
Wew
post Jan 16 2025, 12:34 AM
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I will add the ballast resistor back for better running when warm and hot.
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Superhawk996
post Jan 16 2025, 01:13 AM
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As I re-read this thread I don’t see anywhere that you’ve confirmed your ECU grounds are still in place and solid.

The grounds in the engine bay could get disturbed while you’re mucking around in there and will cause grief if they aren’t solid.
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Wew
post Jan 16 2025, 11:02 PM
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Miracles do happen.
It was the timing.
I found a vacuum leak at the head and air intake on cylinder 3&4.
The engine tin was behind the intake gasket and I had a washer on the backside of the gasket as well. What a dumb ass. I addressed both and no more vacuum leak at that location.
Interesting the engine still idles high (1250 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screw)
I turn the idle mixture screw almost completely closed, maybe a half turn left to complete closed to get 950 idle.
Also got a lot of white smoke out of the tail pipe then finally cleared up after revving it up a few times.
New spark plugs installed, battery recharged, and the 270 ohm resistor reinstalled.
It turns over when I start it cold and hot.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Both throttle body ports plugged and 123ignition distributor advance port open, engine warm, at 3500 rpm’s have a hard time getting it to 27 mark.
ECU never adjusted.
Saturday I will post another video of it running and look forward to your input.

Many thanks and much appreciation to all who have provided input.
. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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emerygt350
post Jan 17 2025, 06:18 AM
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Sounds like you need to try again with initial set up on the 123?
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Shivers
post Jan 17 2025, 06:38 AM
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