70-914-6 Clean Up, 3-11-25 Fan and bolts - closer look Options

[ctc911ctc]

I do not think so - I do not see anything other than direct drive, will check more thoroughly tomorrow - good night SH! Thank you for your support!

Is starter one of the gear reduction / Denso types? Some of those have been known to chew up ring gears like that.

So sad to see that type of crap.

Glad you’re going through it thoroughly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[barefoot]

On our 70 914-6, the DAPO had the heat exchangers ceramic coated. They were already in excellent shape, and I think it will help preserve them.

I don't think it is a bad thing. On par with LED lighting and replacing the plastic fuel lines with stainless steel.

2nd the ceramic coating option. I did that with 911 exhaust and thought it was GTEAT

[ctc911ctc]

I may be alone in this thought, however, looking at a 'like new' underside of a 914 is better than any picture I have seen within the SandBox. But, I only go there for the articles........ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Yea, I know that it a 911 - I stand by my statement

On our 70 914-6, the DAPO had the heat exchangers ceramic coated. They were already in excellent shape, and I think it will help preserve them.

I don't think it is a bad thing. On par with LED lighting and replacing the plastic fuel lines with stainless steel.

2nd the ceramic coating option. I did that with 911 exhaust and thought it was GTEAT

[DennisV]

Cleaning the "Flap Control Boxes" used a solution recommended within these pages, Nice Before and After!

Your flappers look pretty good. Something that might be worth checking is the inside. The springs and the sealing surface. It wasn't obvious, but the springs on ours were broken. There is a thin one that keeps the disc aligned. This kept the flapper from smoothly going through its motion because the disc inside would bind. The disc itself seems to be fiber (maybe asbestos?) over mesh and can disintegrate.

[ctc911ctc]

The flappers are in really good shape - both springs are in great shape, I beleive I will have them vapor blasted and then powder coated. I am experimenting with the 'secret sauce' and its effectiveness - interesting product - low grade (ph) acid solution.

[/quote]
Your flappers look pretty good. Something that might be worth checking is the inside. The springs and the sealing surface. It wasn't obvious, but the springs on ours were broken. There is a thin one that keeps the disc aligned. This kept the flapper from smoothly going through its motion because the disc inside would bind. The disc itself seems to be fiber (maybe asbestos?) over mesh and can disintegrate.
[/quote]

[rgalla9146]

I do not think so - I do not see anything other than direct drive, will check more thoroughly tomorrow - good night SH! Thank you for your support!

Is starter one of the gear reduction / Denso types? Some of those have been known to chew up ring gears like that.

So sad to see that type of crap.

Glad you’re going through it thoroughly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Cary your starter is standard 2.0 911- 914 6
Ring gear wear is common on these flywheels ... they've all endured 50 + years of use.
Consider it a consumable. Much like a pressure plate or clutch disc.
The 6 flywheel is the same as any 2.0 911 except...an original 6 flywheel is marked for
ignition timing and valve adjustment positions.
If you can't get a 6 flywheel (NLA) mark the one you get using the V belt pulley as the reference.

[ctc911ctc]

As always Rory has great advice - Thank you Rory - there is a 914World member who lives close to me that has one - I will go and see it and most likey purchase it this weekend

I do not think so - I do not see anything other than direct drive, will check more thoroughly tomorrow - good night SH! Thank you for your support!

Is starter one of the gear reduction / Denso types? Some of those have been known to chew up ring gears like that.

So sad to see that type of crap.

Glad you’re going through it thoroughly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Cary your starter is standard 2.0 911- 914 6
Ring gear wear is common on these flywheels ... they've all endured 50 + years of use.
Consider it a consumable. Much like a pressure plate or clutch disc.
The 6 flywheel is the same as any 2.0 911 except...an original 6 flywheel is marked for
ignition timing and valve adjustment positions.
If you can't get a 6 flywheel (NLA) mark the one you get using the V belt pulley as the reference.

[ctc911ctc]

Spent a few hours this morning traveling to get a new flywheel from a fellow 914-6 owner - Thank you Mr. M!

Dragged the engine to the beam - when I rebuilt the garage I put in a beam, however, it is never where I need it so I had to squeeze the engine to the beam



Took off the tin and started washing it - perhaps 50 year of grime on the inside - in places nearly 1 inch thick. Scraped and then Dawn and a brush - will fine-tune the cleaning later



Tetris with the floor jack to get the engine high enough, the bean is rated for 4000, the pulley system around 2000 (so it says) and the engine is 400ish, still scary work, got the bolts to line up after realizing I was doing it wrong

[ctc911ctc]

Engine on Stand - Tetris with Blocks lift and patience. Not a one man job!

[ctc911ctc]

********UPDATE*********

Heater Manifolds and all tin are being powder Coated

Tin = off gloss black, as close to factor color and shine as possible
Header Assembly = Gray Ceramic, a bit brighter than typical primer

Very Good Vendor in the Boston Area - Pike Powder Coat (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Also found a very good capable machine shop - I am taking a mil off of the face of the P225 so that it will fit the Dog Tooth

CTC911CTC

[Root_Werks]

Lucky enough to also have a good powder coater close to home here as well. Exciting to see parts going off to get coated!

Looking good!

[ctc911ctc]

Took the valve covers off, they were close to finger tight - pretty certain that they were not torqued - if they were is the torque setting 'finger-tight'?

Head Stud Nuts all very tight - no broken studs, no leaking at the cylinders at either the head or the case.

The mating points between the covers and the cam housing are very dirty, will try and get them shiny and able to seal.




Also, the heat louvers are really looking good, a few coats of the green stuff and it all goes away,

[mepstein]

Are you doing a leak down on the heads?

[ctc911ctc]

The compression is good and ran strong, I was mostly concerned with the oil leaks

Behind the flywheel was filled with dirt and grease - pics will follow

Are you doing a leak down on the heads?

[ctc911ctc]

Still cleaning the engine - took off the flywheel and all of the crevases were filled with a gritty oily grime, this is mostly cleaned, I see no cracks or other points of leakage, most likely is from the gasket



Spent a few hours cleaning all of the fins, lots of mouse parts and their house remnants were found (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

[ctc911ctc]

just bought a leak-down tool - will let you know!

Are you doing a leak down on the heads?

[ctc911ctc]

Lots of progress getting rid of the grease and dirt.

I took a Scotch-Bright pad with a bit of de-greaser to the valve cover seats, seems that there was goo used in the past - leaking from these was extreme, lots of small lumps from legacy sealant?




Fan Cowling - could not believe the layers on this



Or this!



Fan is in the soup!



Oil cooler is very clean - was in the parts cleaner for 2-3 hours (30 minutes each run, turn and repeat) the inside has grease that is still making its way out - should be very clean - will power flush and dry prior to re-install

[fixer34]

Stock lower valve covers were notorious for warping and leaking. Replace with a set of 'turbo' valve covers, BUT make sure you machine some of the fins per several threads on here. This is needed if you ever want to remove the lower covers with the engine in the car. Otherwise Turbo cover fins hit the suspension and can't be removed.

[930cabman]

Stock lower valve covers were notorious for warping and leaking. Replace with a set of 'turbo' valve covers, BUT make sure you machine some of the fins per several threads on here. This is needed if you ever want to remove the lower covers with the engine in the car. Otherwise Turbo cover fins hit the suspension and can't be removed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) there are several threads covering this

[ctc911ctc]

On my small machinist table they are straight - I am going to close them up by the book once I am done with the cleaning and valve clearance setting. Thank you!

Stock lower valve covers were notorious for warping and leaking. Replace with a set of 'turbo' valve covers, BUT make sure you machine some of the fins per several threads on here. This is needed if you ever want to remove the lower covers with the engine in the car. Otherwise Turbo cover fins hit the suspension and can't be removed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) there are several threads covering this