Clutch Job ?, Clutch change info 1973 914 Options

[porscheteck914]

I have a clutch job to do on 1973 914 . Does the club have a info thread - The best , easy way to go about doing this ? thanks any and all . Paul

[L-Jet914]

I removed my transaxle and left the engine in the car. I had the car up on my QuickJack. I used a jack stand and block of wood on the engine case to support it. Remove the muffler (get new gaskets). I then purchased a harbor freight low profile transmission jack that uses a 1/2 drive extension and ratchet. Are you having the flywheel machined or putting a new one in it? If you put a new one in it, you will need a new pilot bearing (should come with clutch kit from places like Pelican Parts when you purchase the larger clutch kit that comes with most of the stuff), felt washer, the split spacer should be in the crank snout, and order a set of shims (from LN Engineering. The thicknesses were stated in Ian Karr's video. (aka Type 4 Store)) to set the end play of the crankshaft, new bolt plate and new fly wheel bolts, punch to transfer over the alignment pins for the pressure plate to the new fly wheel, new schnorr washers for the cv axles, new gaskets for the cv joints, torque wrench, magnetic base dial indicator. Flywheel O-ring. I may be forgetting a few things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1sDHWxTOxk...channel=IanKarr The video I referenced when I replaced my clutch disc, flywheel, pressure plate etc.

[porscheteck914]

I removed my transaxle and left the engine in the car. I had the car up on my QuickJack. I used a jack stand and block of wood on the engine case to support it. Remove the muffler (get new gaskets). I then purchased a harbor freight low profile transmission jack that uses a 1/2 drive extension and ratchet. Are you having the flywheel machined or putting a new one in it? If you put a new one in it, you will need a new pilot bearing (should come with clutch kit from places like Pelican Parts when you purchase the larger clutch kit that comes with most of the stuff), felt washer, the split spacer should be in the crank snout, and order a set of shims (from LN Engineering. The thicknesses were stated in Ian Karr's video. (aka Type 4 Store)) to set the end play of the crankshaft, new bolt plate and new fly wheel bolts, punch to transfer over the alignment pins for the pressure plate to the new fly wheel, new schnorr washers for the cv axles, torque wrench, magnetic base dial indicator. Flywheel O-ring. I may be forgetting a few things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1sDHWxTOxk...channel=IanKarr The video I referenced when I replaced my clutch disc, flywheel, pressure plate etc.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH ! Ian and you explain it perfectly . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[bdstone914]

If you have a lift you can actually leave the trans in the car attached the the axles and move it back enough to access the pressure plate. I friend of mine could do it in 45 minutes. Getting the trans shaft into the flywheel can be difficult unless you use a trans jack or similar lift.

[VaccaRabite]

IMO its easier to take the transmission out of the car. Though it does mean you will need new CV gaskets and Schnoor washers for the CV bolts.

I've never used a transmission jack. The transmission weighs about 80 lbs. So laying on my back, one foot on each ear and hands supporting the bell housing - 20lbs per limb. Not bad. Wiggle the transmission free and lay it on my chest, then roll it on a furniture dolly that's right next to me. At that point you have time to get it set up and back in. Back in is just the same as extraction. Feet on the ears, hands on the bellhousing. Its a little finicky to get the splines lined up, but once they are it slides right on.

A motorcycle jack or something like that from Harbor Freight probably makes this easier. But I've had this car since the CSOB days, and am not yet completely reformed.

Zach

[Artfrombama]

A clutch job is a great opportunity to replace pushrod tube seals, oil pressure sender, oil cooler seals, F&R crankshaft seals, retorque heads etc.
So I remove the engine and transaxle together. Only a few more steps to drop the entire drivetrain.

[Superhawk996]

I've never used a transmission jack. The transmission weighs about 80 lbs. So laying on my back, one foot on each ear and hands supporting the bell housing - 20lbs per limb. Not bad. Wiggle the transmission free and lay it on my chest, then roll it on a furniture dolly that's right next to me. At that point you have time to get it set up and back in. Back in is just the same as extraction. Feet on the ears, hands on the bellhousing. Its a little finicky to get the splines lined up, but once they are it slides right on.

A motorcycle jack or something like that from Harbor Freight probably makes this easier. But I've had this car since the CSOB days, and am not yet completely reformed.

Zach

Bringing back hilarious memories Zach! Been there done that minus the furniture dolly part. Just roll it off into the ground, drag it out from underneath like a prize!

[rjames]

I followed this article on Pelican when I did mine.

Pelican Tech Article: Replacing the clutch in a 914

I also didn't use a transmission jack, and used a regular 2 ton jack harbor freight jack to lower and pull it out. One hand on the jack and another on top of the trans to keep it balanced on the jack. Easy enough to do solo, but if you have a helper when it comes time to remove the transmission, it'll be a piece of cake.

[930cabman]

In the middle of this now, I decided to pull the engine/transmission/exhaust. Clutch disc measured .320 ish, Clymer states a minimum of .360. Looks mostly straightforward but I did see some oil on the bell housing. Next step will be remove throwout bearing and probably replace the input shaft seal. Will also adjust valves and general cleanup/inspection. Mine has approx 5k miles since a full rebuild in 2022

Having a Clymer and/or a Haynes manual is always helpful

[L-Jet914]

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/ja...jack-70262.html The transmission jack I used. Compact and not bad for the price.

[bkrantz]

A clutch job is a great opportunity to replace pushrod tube seals, oil pressure sender, oil cooler seals, F&R crankshaft seals, retorque heads etc.
So I remove the engine and transaxle together. Only a few more steps to drop the entire drivetrain.

I agree.

And then you can play "while the engine is out..." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

[bkrantz]

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/ja...jack-70262.html The transmission jack I used. Compact and not bad for the price.

I like this, for lifting the trans or the engine plus trans.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-alumi...lift-70835.html

[Artfrombama]

A clutch job is a great opportunity to replace pushrod tube seals, oil pressure sender, oil cooler seals, F&R crankshaft seals, retorque heads etc.
So I remove the engine and transaxle together. Only a few more steps to drop the entire drivetrain.

I agree.

And then you can play "while the engine is out..." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

Before you know it you’re building a rotisserie (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[porschetub]

I have a clutch job to do on 1973 914 . Does the club have a info thread - The best , easy way to go about doing this ? thanks any and all . Paul

Sachs (ZF) kit is the best as OEM ,I was cheap ? and bought enough parts like pressure plate and disk separately from ebay and saved a ton of money ,shop around for new thrust bearing if you need one ,prices can vary a lot on these,still a good time to do removal of the flywheel and change the RMS ,for time and cost it makes little sense not too .
Obviously factor in all the bits required and you will be good ,cheers.

[76-914]

ep, you can save a couple of hundred $$$ by shopping around.

[flxzcat]

I've never used a transmission jack. The transmission weighs about 80 lbs. So laying on my back, one foot on each ear and hands supporting the bell housing - 20lbs per limb. Not bad. Wiggle the transmission free and lay it on my chest, then roll it on a furniture dolly that's right next to me. At that point you have time to get it set up and back in. Back in is just the same as extraction. Feet on the ears, hands on the bellhousing. Its a little finicky to get the splines lined up, but once they are it slides right on.

Zach

Oh, to be young again!

Zach, try this when your 70.

[iankarr]

Go for it! Glad the video is helpful. Let us know how it goes.