Adjusting Valves, What method is correct? Options

[Artfrombama]

Adjusted the valves using the TDC method with satisfactory results but I find it somewhat difficult and takes too long.
The way I’ve always adjusted valves is with a remote starter button and bumping the starter. When the exhaust open, adjust the intake. Then when the intake fully open and starting to close, adjust the exhaust. EOIC


Is either correct? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) If not please explain.

[emerygt350]

I like the crusty method. Put it in fifth, roll the wheel till a valve of choice is completely compressed (or use the starter, but I think the wheel is easier). Then adjust the opposite valve. So if you compress the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 you would adjust the exhaust valve on cylinder 2.

No TDC, no hoping it is as loose as it can be, no losing track of where you are or have been.

[Kansas 914]

I like the crusty method. Put it in fifth, roll the wheel till a valve of choice is completely compressed (or use the starter, but I think the wheel is easier). Then adjust the opposite valve. So if you compress the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 you would adjust the exhaust valve on cylinder 2.

No TDC, no hoping it is as loose as it can be, no losing track of where you are or have been.

From the Cap'n: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=28758

[VaccaRabite]

The way I’ve always adjusted valves is with a remote starter button and bumping the starter. When the exhaust open, adjust the intake. Then when the intake fully open and starting to close, adjust the exhaust. EOIC

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/splat.gif)
This is not the way to adjust valves. You have no idea at what part of the cycle the valve is in, and the valves do overlap (one is opening while the other is closing). When you adjust a valve, it needs to be FULLY off the cam lobe. Do not adjust valves this way!

I also use the Crusty method posted here. I find it a lot faster to not have to get out from under the car.

But of the methods you listed, you need to be using the TDC method.

Zach

[GregAmy]

Cap'n method, both valve covers off, remote starter button. Print out the card so you don't have to think about it.

Easy peasy.

[Superhawk996]

Nothing wrong with the Capt’n method but it needs to be acknowledged that its application is limited to the cam lobe sharing of the VW horizontally opposed engines.

The tried and true TDC of the compression stroke method, following the engine firing order is universally applicable.

[emerygt350]

I don't even bother with the 'fast way' using the table of what is adjustable at any given rocked valve. Less chance of me screwing something up, and it really doesn't take long to just go around and rocking the opposites one at a time.

[930cabman]

just had a look at the wise words of the Cap, looks like it would take a year

[ctc911ctc]

I spent a good deal of time analyzing Krusty's method

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2793467

I believe this makes things a bit clearer

[Literati914]

The simplest way that I've found and IMHO, for the actual adjustment is:

TDC #1 = check Int. & Ex. @ #1 / Int. @ #2 / Ex. @ #4

TDC #3 = check Int. & Ex. @ #3 / Int. @ #4 / Ex. @ #2

done.

here's a good video that includes a simple drawing :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfkxlHWZmxM

[Artfrombama]

Thanks to everyone that responded.

I'm wishing I had paint marked my fan and flywheel when the engine was out and the heads were off, find and mark TDC of all the pistons.

I think I will continue to use the EOIC method, most familiar to me and I feel just as accurate.

I think all the methods discussed here give satisfactory results, totally personal preference.

[rfinegan]

I'm of the school like emerygt350, we know the lobe is shared with the opposing cylinder.
With the trans in 5th gear and one wheel blocked.
1) Rotate wheel/engine (helper or with you feet)

2)Watch the valve open until fully open (top of lobe)

3)Adjust the apposing valve to desired lash.(at base of lobe)

^^^this works EVERY TIME on ANY CAM PROFILE^^^^

After a few times you will see that the Crusty method will put you on the fewest rotations of the engine and save time knowing which one to adjust next with the lobe lift /base method

[Dave_Darling]

I think I will continue to use the EOIC method, most familiar to me and I feel just as accurate.

If that's where you adjust the other rocker in the cylinder where one valve is open, that's not a good idea...

I use the TDC method. I have found the clearances to be off when I checked with one valve on a cylinder open.

--DD

[neyen14]

With one wheel off the ground and the car in 5th, the lifted wheel does not turn, nor does the engine. The starter does turn the engine and the rotor spins. Wut is wong?

[FlacaProductions]

Is the e-brake on?

[neyen14]

Is the e-brake on?

Sadly.... no

[VaccaRabite]

With one wheel off the ground and the car in 5th, the lifted wheel does not turn, nor does the engine. The starter does turn the engine and the rotor spins. Wut is wong?

If the spark plugs are in you have to overcome the basic compression stroke. 5th gear gives you the most advantage there, and I can pretty easily turn even a fresh engine making 150psi compression this way.

BUT.

It isn't effortless. If you are expecting effortless, you are mistaken.

Push harder.

If it really does not move, I'd be looking at your brakes. They may be stuck on, and you are just overpowering them as you drive. Or you have a caliper rusted to the rotor.

Zach

[friethmiller]

Is the e-brake on?

Sadly.... no

If the car is already up in the air, I just unhook one of the e-brake cables at the caliper and then put the e-brake on.

[neyen14]

With one wheel off the ground and the car in 5th, the lifted wheel does not turn, nor does the engine. The starter does turn the engine and the rotor spins. Wut is wong?

If the spark plugs are in you have to overcome the basic compression stroke. 5th gear gives you the most advantage there, and I can pretty easily turn even a fresh engine making 150psi compression this way.

BUT.

It isn't effortless. If you are expecting effortless, you are mistaken.

Push harder.

If it really does not move, I'd be looking at your brakes. They may be stuck on, and you are just overpowering them as you drive. Or you have a caliper rusted to the rotor.

Zach

With the car in neutral wheels spin freely, with e brake alone I get zero movement. When I put it in 5th, I get slight turn then gear.... in either direction. I'd take the plugs out but doesn't feel like I'm bucking up against compression.... total gear

[Dave_Darling]

"Slight gear"? "Total gear"? Not sure what you mean.

If the car is in gear and the clutch is good, then turning the transmission should turn the crankshaft.

Could there be something wonky with your differential? Limited slip? Welded diff?

--DD