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> Galley Plugs, Which ones?
Chad911sc
post Nov 1 2025, 10:09 AM
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While I have my engine out to fix my crank, wanted to do all the things I didn’t do the first time. I want to make sure I do all the galley plugs that are necessary to prevent one popping out and losing my oil pressure. Several posts on this forum say just to do the five, and some other forums say, to do many more. I got the main five out, and they were really in there! It took many pulls on the slide hammer to remove them. Surprisingly enough, my galley’s were spotless! In the bottom 2 pictures, my question is, do I need to remove these smaller ones up by the oil cooler? And also, what about this big one to the bottom right of the oil pump housing? Do these need to be removed and tapped as well?


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Superhawk996
post Nov 1 2025, 12:20 PM
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QUOTE(Chad911sc @ Nov 1 2025, 12:09 PM) *

While I have my engine out to fix my crank, wanted to do all the things I didn’t do the first time. I want to make sure I do all the galley plugs that are necessary to prevent one popping out and losing my oil pressure.

Ah yes the old mythology of oil pressure blowing out galley plugs.

Unless you are running crazy oil pressures it just isn’t going to happen. Suspect now that you’ve seen how much effort it takes to remove a plug you see why this is the case.

Personally, I agree with pulling them to clean oil galleys. Somehow you’ve gotten lucky and don’t seem to have gunk in yours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) You alone need to assess how much risk you’re willing to take in opening up (or not) the other galleys. I make that decision based on the engine and/or what I know about the engine history.

Well now that you’ve got them pulled you’re opening up a whole other debate of what to replace them with. Steel, brass, or aluminum.

I don’t think I have the willpower to rehash that debate. I personally use aluminum for the same reason the OEM did. Same exact thermal expansion characteristics that prevent leaks.

If you pull all the plugs be prepared for some weird setups on a drill press or mill to get all of the galleys drilled and tapped properly. The more that are drilled and tapped hy hand, the more you risk leaks.


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914sgofast2
post Nov 1 2025, 01:37 PM
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Jake Raby did a video about this some time ago. Unfortunately
I don’t have a link. Remember him saying only thec 5 larger ones need to be replaced. Never the small ones near the oil cooler/ oil filer areas.
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MartyYeoman
post Nov 1 2025, 03:28 PM
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Chad911sc
post Nov 1 2025, 04:17 PM
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10-4.
It was so hard to get the 5 out that I did pull, I’m definitely not worried about the other ones coming out. I am going to do a true full flow on the engine this time, instead of using that adapter plate off of the factory oil cooler spot, as I did the last time. So I will only be putting 4 plugs back in. It was the original engine for the car with 100,000 miles on it, and it ran decent when I bought it. It just had oil puking from every nook and cranny, so I pulled it apart. And of course while I had it apart I changed everything.
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930cabman
post Nov 2 2025, 12:58 PM
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QUOTE(Chad911sc @ Nov 1 2025, 05:17 PM) *

10-4.
It was so hard to get the 5 out that I did pull, I’m definitely not worried about the other ones coming out. I am going to do a true full flow on the engine this time, instead of using that adapter plate off of the factory oil cooler spot, as I did the last time. So I will only be putting 4 plugs back in. It was the original engine for the car with 100,000 miles on it, and it ran decent when I bought it. It just had oil puking from every nook and cranny, so I pulled it apart. And of course while I had it apart I changed everything.


It was running with the bent crank?
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Chad911sc
post Nov 3 2025, 09:27 AM
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Yes it ran with the .008 out crank. This is why I lost my oil pressure, it wiped the middle main bearing. It only ran for about 3 hours total and most of it was on jack stands trying to tune the carbs. But when I took it for a drive, once the carbs were tuned good enough to really put the gas down to seat the rings, it dropped the pressure to only about 4 lbs at idle. It had never gotten over 190 degrees in the driveway and would hold 8-10lbs. Once it got to 220 it lost the pressure, so I pulled it back apart. Everything inside still looks great and the case bores are perfect. I used a bore gauge to re check them and they are in middle of the spec on thrust sides.
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Chad911sc
post Nov 3 2025, 09:36 AM
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Sorry Cabman,
If you meant when I bought the car it was running…yes. I’m not sure if the crank was bent then though, because it had 10lbs at idle. But truthfully I never drove it more than 3 miles before I tore it all apart. I drove it from where the shipper dropped it off, to where I live. There is no way it was even close to hot temps by then. Hard to know. It might have gotten bent from it being dropped or mishandled at the machine shop when I took it to get checked. All I know is I’m on the right path now to put it back together for hopefully the last time.
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930cabman
post Nov 3 2025, 12:40 PM
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QUOTE(Chad911sc @ Nov 3 2025, 10:36 AM) *

Sorry Cabman,
If you meant when I bought the car it was running…yes. I’m not sure if the crank was bent then though, because it had 10lbs at idle. But truthfully I never drove it more than 3 miles before I tore it all apart. I drove it from where the shipper dropped it off, to where I live. There is no way it was even close to hot temps by then. Hard to know. It might have gotten bent from it being dropped or mishandled at the machine shop when I took it to get checked. All I know is I’m on the right path now to put it back together for hopefully the last time.


Great, you took the crank (and maybe other precision parts) to the trusted machine shop and they returned a bent crank. How is this possible, these cranks are stout forgings (I'm quite sure) and they don't bend easily. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
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Chad911sc
post Nov 3 2025, 03:02 PM
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Since this has happened to me, I’ve called all of my buddies that I’ve made over the past 30 years, and it’s been happening to them as well here in central Florida. I just talked to one of my old friends Bob, who races big block fords and has several cars that he builds the engines for every other year or so. He said he wouldn’t recommend anyone to me because a lot of his work has been suspect lately. He said the last time he had his rods sized, they screwed them up so bad that they were now unusable! I guess it’s just a crap shoot from now on. I am now looking for someone within a couple hours driving distance to balance my rotating assembly. Hopefully I can find someone. I didn’t do it the first time I built it, so I want to do it this time.
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 4 2025, 10:26 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 1 2025, 11:20 AM) *

Ah yes the old mythology of oil pressure blowing out galley plugs.


If that's a myth, then why did a plug pop out on my old 1.8 on cold start-up one fine (and panic-inducing) morning?

--DD
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