front suspension bushing installation alternative to liquid soap? Options

[Cvrguy]

The essential question is how the bushings function. Do they regulate suspension movement in shear or are they solely serving a cushioning function? If it is the latter, a high quality non-petroleum based grease should function well while also serving a corrosion resistant role as well. Thoughts?

[Ninja]

The bushings twist!

They should stay locked to both the body mount and the shaft.

They should be tightened/locked at normal ride height and the farther you deflect them the more resistance they add (adds to spring rate).

Grease is a BAD idea.

I've used dish soap or diesel as an assembly lubricant.



The EXCEPTION to this is bushings NOT made out of rubber.

Urethane/Delrin/nylon (normal "performance" bushings) require specific lubricants (usually some type of silicon grease).

It is a real good idea to add grease zerks to the bushing housings as these bushings squeak like hell when they get dry.

I've never installed a set that didn't squeak at some point.


Edit: Phil @Superhawk996 suggests glycerin as another option. I've not used that before, but liquid glycerin is super slippery.
Might be worth trying if you're struggling with the soap.

[Arkady]

I watched a local bicycle shop install rubber(ish) handlebar grips on a mountain bike. They used hair spray. This provided lubrication while sliding the grips over the bar. Soon afterward the 'slipperiness' disappeared and the grip stayed put. So, I tried this method on my bike. Years later it still is securely in place.

Not sure if this is applicable here, though.

[Cvrguy]

I watched a local bicycle shop install rubber(ish) handlebar grips on a mountain bike. They used hair spray. This provided lubrication while sliding the grips over the bar. Soon afterward the 'slipperiness' disappeared and the grip stayed put. So, I tried this method on my bike. Years later it still is securely in place.

Not sure if this is applicable here, though.

Given that the bushings need to be fixed in position, I am looking for a way to increase the "working time" between installation and when the soap dries out. Would glycerin take longer or slower to set up? I'm not confident that the measurements I took prior to removal will be correct once installed. If they are incorrect, I could end up with too high a "bushing" spring rate. I'm curious as to how the factory did it initially.

[brant]

I watched a local bicycle shop install rubber(ish) handlebar grips on a mountain bike. They used hair spray. This provided lubrication while sliding the grips over the bar. Soon afterward the 'slipperiness' disappeared and the grip stayed put. So, I tried this method on my bike. Years later it still is securely in place.

Not sure if this is applicable here, though.

Given that the bushings need to be fixed in position, I am looking for a way to increase the "working time" between installation and when the soap dries out. Would glycerin take longer or slower to set up? I'm not confident that the measurements I took prior to removal will be correct once installed. If they are incorrect, I could end up with too high a "bushing" spring rate. I'm curious as to how the factory did it initially.

original factory bushings are vulcanized.. or melted into place. not a technique that can be recreated at home. both the ID and OD are melted to the metal parts and create a twist in the rubber as the car changes up and down. The original rubber flexes to a point.


aftermarket bushings usually spin on the shaft
example roller bearings, or even zerks to lubricate the moving part for plastic bushings.

and one that does not move freely will add resistance or add to the total spring rate.

[Ninja]

The fastest of all of the lubricants I've used is the diesel.

I use that on BMW front A arm rear mount which is cylindrical and is pressed on to a 3/4" shaft. You have to slam the critters on, lock the body mount bolts, then drop the car and load the front suspension (couple of fat guys in the car does this fine). You've got 3-5 minutes to do all of this.

I think the glycerin would take the longest of all (but I haven't tried it myself!).

The spring rates are not altered that much.

It is IMPORTANT to have the bushings not "twisted" at normal ride height if you want the bushings to have the longest life.

[mgphoto]

Astroglide.

[Cvrguy]

I watched a local bicycle shop install rubber(ish) handlebar grips on a mountain bike. They used hair spray. This provided lubrication while sliding the grips over the bar. Soon afterward the 'slipperiness' disappeared and the grip stayed put. So, I tried this method on my bike. Years later it still is securely in place.

Not sure if this is applicable here, though.

Given that the bushings need to be fixed in position, I am looking for a way to increase the "working time" between installation and when the soap dries out. Would glycerin take longer or slower to set up? I'm not confident that the measurements I took prior to removal will be correct once installed. If they are incorrect, I could end up with too high a "bushing" spring rate. I'm curious as to how the factory did it initially.

original factory bushings are vulcanized.. or melted into place. not a technique that can be recreated at home. both the ID and OD are melted to the metal parts and create a twist in the rubber as the car changes up and down. The original rubber flexes to a point.


aftermarket bushings usually spin on the shaft
example roller bearings, or even zerks to lubricate the moving part for plastic bushings.

and one that does not move freely will add resistance or add to the total spring rate.

Thanks. That's the best explanation I have heard to date. It makes perfect sense for an assembly line installation. I spoke with a retired automotive engineer yesterday and he agrees that it won't change the overall spring rate that much, particularly if the bushing carriers are set somewhere close to the static ride height setting. Now I understand why many use the Elephant Racing bushings. Thanks to all.

[mgp4591]

I watched a local bicycle shop install rubber(ish) handlebar grips on a mountain bike. They used hair spray. This provided lubrication while sliding the grips over the bar. Soon afterward the 'slipperiness' disappeared and the grip stayed put. So, I tried this method on my bike. Years later it still is securely in place.

Not sure if this is applicable here, though.

Given that the bushings need to be fixed in position, I am looking for a way to increase the "working time" between installation and when the soap dries out. Would glycerin take longer or slower to set up? I'm not confident that the measurements I took prior to removal will be correct once installed. If they are incorrect, I could end up with too high a "bushing" spring rate. I'm curious as to how the factory did it initially.

original factory bushings are vulcanized.. or melted into place. not a technique that can be recreated at home. both the ID and OD are melted to the metal parts and create a twist in the rubber as the car changes up and down. The original rubber flexes to a point.


aftermarket bushings usually spin on the shaft
example roller bearings, or even zerks to lubricate the moving part for plastic bushings.

and one that does not move freely will add resistance or add to the total spring rate.

Thanks. That's the best explanation I have heard to date. It makes perfect sense for an assembly line installation. I spoke with a retired automotive engineer yesterday and he agrees that it won't change the overall spring rate that much, particularly if the bushing carriers are set somewhere close to the static ride height setting. Now I understand why many use the Elephant Racing bushings. Thanks to all.

The Elephant bushings are really good...I'd stay away from Delrin or nylon. My pick would be the urethane with liberal silicone grease like you'd get from the pool supply store. Fit a zerk into a spot where you can access it easily with the suspension loaded and you're set.

[GregAmy]

Any time I need a lube to do this kind of work, it's always a "personal lubricant" from the local CVS.

Yes, that. It's water-based so won't attack rubbers (pun intended) and it will eventually evaporate.

[Front yard mechanic]

Monkey butt works well

[Front yard mechanic]

Monkey butt works well