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| burlybryan |
May 25 2026, 10:12 AM
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 150 Joined: 25-May 20 From: Saint Paul Member No.: 24,311 Region Association: None
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I have a buddy with a Rennshift shifter and Tangerine rod and linkage. He lost shifting while driving recently and from what I can tell, the rod separated from the splined linkage at the trans. I removed the set screw at the rear linkage and it not a cone screw.
Can someone confirm if these ever came with just basic set screws or were they always cone screws. I haven't pulled it apart to see if there is a remnant cone portion stuck in the shaft, but wanted to get an idea of what is supposed to be there. Chris' kit shows cone screws. Thanks! |
| TRP |
May 25 2026, 11:01 AM
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 381 Joined: 2-September 23 From: Morgan Hill, CA Member No.: 27,559 Region Association: None
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I am pretty confident that both set screws provided with my Tangerine kit are of the cone screw variety. I just reinstalled my linkage after a motor out rebuild and had both screws in my hand as I applied new loc-tite on them.
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| Jack Standz |
May 25 2026, 11:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 806 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None
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Don't know if Chis made different versions over the years. However, the one we have came with two set screws on the splined shaft that goes into the shift console.
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| mlindner |
May 25 2026, 12:04 PM
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#4
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,780 Joined: 11-November 11 From: Merrimac, WI Member No.: 13,770 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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And Chris side shift Alignment Tool is the best thing since sliced bread. It is so easy to use and the results are dead on. Had my 914 for 45 years and the shift pattern and gear engagement has never been this good. Best, Mark
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| ChrisFoley |
May 25 2026, 12:15 PM
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#5
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,026 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None
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I have a buddy with a Rennshift shifter and Tangerine rod and linkage. He lost shifting while driving recently and from what I can tell, the rod separated from the splined linkage at the trans. I removed the set screw at the rear linkage and it not a cone screw. Can someone confirm if these ever came with just basic set screws or were they always cone screws. I haven't pulled it apart to see if there is a remnant cone portion stuck in the shaft, but wanted to get an idea of what is supposed to be there. Chris' kit shows cone screws. Thanks! My older kits used a nice aftermarket steering U-joint at the rear which had splines like the factory steering parts. Those used two set screws at each end to keep them connected. There are also two cone screws in those kits. More recent kits eliminate the splined steering u-joint in favor of one identical to the front one, which are my own design and construction, adapted from something I used to buy (which got hella expensive). The newer kits use three cone screws but some of the adjustability of the old design is gone. |
| burlybryan |
May 25 2026, 06:36 PM
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#6
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 150 Joined: 25-May 20 From: Saint Paul Member No.: 24,311 Region Association: None
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Ah, thanks Chris. This does have a u-joint with splines on the shaft that engages the shifter - and just a basic set screw then. Without a point of reference, I'm trying to figure out how much spline was engaged in order to trial and error re-engagement. He has a Rennshifter up front which I'd rather not mess with.
I'm thinking I'm going to have to fiddle with amount of rod/spline engagement plus twist on the cup/trans linkage to re-find the center of the H pattern. I've done this adjustment in the cab at the tunnel, but maybe it's best to just dismantle both ends and start over. Thanks! [/quote] My older kits used a nice aftermarket steering U-joint at the rear which had splines like the factory steering parts. Those used two set screws at each end to keep them connected. There are also two cone screws in those kits. More recent kits eliminate the splined steering u-joint in favor of one identical to the front one, which are my own design and construction, adapted from something I used to buy (which got hella expensive). The newer kits use three cone screws but some of the adjustability of the old design is gone. [/quote] |
| Jack Standz |
May 26 2026, 12:21 AM
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#7
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 806 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None
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You certainly can try starting with trying to find the center of the H pattern or whatever works for you.
First suggest you make sure the cone screw that connects the front shift rod to the rear shift rod is tight (it is located just to the rear of the firewall bushing underneath the rubber bellows). But, you might consider trying to get the shifter setup by putting the transmission in 2nd gear and putting the gear shift lever to the left against the spring loaded "gate" and forward (good to have a helper hold it there) to where 2nd should be. Then slip the rear shift rod into the splined shaft that goes into the shift console at the transmission end of the shaft. Then tighten down the set screws and test. Adjust as necessary. Alternatively, you can put the transmission in 4th gear and have someone else hold the shift lever in the far right and up position(where 4th gear should be). Or use a ratchet strap from the door to the shift lever to hold it in position. Then slip the rear shift rod into the splined shaft that goes into the shift console at the transmission end of the shaft. Then tighten down the set screws and test. Adjust as necessary. |
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