Any Tips, Tricks, Old School Methods, etc. to loosen stubborn brake line fittings? Options

[914rrr]

Working on my brakes and installing new soft lines in the rear. Used PB Blaster to baptise both soft line fittings to hard lines that to go the proportioning valve. Re-applied each day for a few days.

Went to remove the drivers side soft line and the fitting rounded off before the hard line snapped of just above the fitting. Had a crummy made in India flare wrench laying around that spread right away and was quickly useless. Tried again with an 11 mm Proto combo wrench on the hard line barrel and a 17 mm Indian flare on the bottom soft line. Thought I was making progress until the line broke off just above the fitting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now, I have to replace the drivers side hard line that goes on TOP of the proportioning valve, and possibly the other twin line going to the passenger side. How do you remove THAT fitting on top without pulling the engine?

I could barely get an 11 mm stubby combo wrench on it, but have almost zero room to twist it. I'm in need of solutions, ideas, old timer trick, tips if anybody has any.

[bdstone914]

Working on my brakes and installing new soft lines in the rear. Used PB Blaster to baptise both soft line fittings to hard lines that to go the proportioning valve. Re-applied each day for a few days.

Went to remove the drivers side soft line and the fitting rounded off before the hard line snapped of just above the fitting. Had a crummy made in India flare wrench laying around that spread right away and was quickly useless. Tried again with an 11 mm Proto combo wrench on the hard line barrel and a 17 mm Indian flare on the bottom soft line. Thought I was making progress until the line broke off just above the fitting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now, I have to replace the drivers side hard line that goes on TOP of the proportioning valve, and possibly the other twin line going to the passenger side. How do you remove THAT fitting on top without pulling the engine?

I could barely get an 11 mm stubby combo wrench on it, but have almost zero room to twist it. I'm in need of solutions, ideas, old timer trick, tips if anybody has any.

I use a pair of Knipex plyers. Thry have jaws shaped to fit the hex. They do not kick back from the pressurevof trying to open them. Everest makes a similar pair. I descovered them in Saab tool kits. They work on hev nuts from 10-27mm. I have removed rear shock nuts with them.

[bdstone914]

Do you use a torch to heat the fitting. I rdid that recently. Used tust penetrent then heat. Gave it a good amount of heat then walked away. Heard a bang. The rubber hose was blown off the flex line. And the system was open on that end. Did not make sence but it happened.

[Jack Standz]

Somebody recommended these ratcheting flare wrenches, but haven't pulled the trigger yet to buy them, so can't offer any personal experience with them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CCZTQX43?psc=1&th=1

Amazon.com sells them as individual wrenches too, if you're not up to get the whole set.

Here's a set with flexible heads that might help with that stubborn one on top of the brake pressure regulator.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIDE-CRAFT-Flex-hea...164&sr=8-11

[porschetub]

Working on my brakes and installing new soft lines in the rear. Used PB Blaster to baptise both soft line fittings to hard lines that to go the proportioning valve. Re-applied each day for a few days.

Went to remove the drivers side soft line and the fitting rounded off before the hard line snapped of just above the fitting. Had a crummy made in India flare wrench laying around that spread right away and was quickly useless. Tried again with an 11 mm Proto combo wrench on the hard line barrel and a 17 mm Indian flare on the bottom soft line. Thought I was making progress until the line broke off just above the fitting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now, I have to replace the drivers side hard line that goes on TOP of the proportioning valve, and possibly the other twin line going to the passenger side. How do you remove THAT fitting on top without pulling the engine?

I could barely get an 11 mm stubby combo wrench on it, but have almost zero room to twist it. I'm in need of solutions, ideas, old timer trick, tips if anybody has any.

Bugger that's a whole world of trouble ,buy/loan a flaring tool and use VW jointers which are used on 80s and 90s Golfs ,they are normally used on the engine side of the firewall ,chop them out of a pick and pull wreak.
Use a bit of heat on the bad fitting and get yourself some decent brake line spanners ,good luck ,cheers.

[BillC]

If you are replacing the line (hard or soft) anyway, just cut the line and use a box-end wrench or socket to loosen the fitting.

[brant]

Try aero kroil
I find it much better than pb

[emerygt350]

Watch any episode of vice grip garage....

[Chris H.]

Watch any episode of vice grip garage....

LOL exactly! He always says "heat, juice, juice, heat, heat, juice, heat...repeat..." using some sort of penetrant like kroil or PB Blaster

He also tries to tighten the nuts as well as loosen them and has a wrench on both sides to try to prevent snapping an ancient hard line.

[VaccaRabite]

I usually just accept that I'm going to break a 50 year old hard line when I try to remove it - no matter what I do. And have new lines waiting to go.

But, yeah. heat and juice. I prefer my hope brew (50%ATF, 50%acetone) but PB works.

Zach

[914rrr]

Thanks everyone! I was told by another member here that rubber brakes lines can exploded when heated sometimes. Never knew that before.

Speaking of heat, is it OK to apply heat to the proportioning valve?

[Cvrguy]

I did what BillC did, cut the old rubber hose just above the fitting a use a socket. I shot mine with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. Mine were original lines from 1973 and the came off easily this way.

[emerygt350]

That's the other vgg bit of advice. Sacrifice the rubber hose. You are replacing it anyway. You want to protect the steel line. Cut the rubber, use a socket, clamp the steel line. Heat, juice heat juice...

[914rrr]

Success!! I was able to remove the passenger side hard line flare nut from the soft line AND the top flare nut on the broken drivers side hard line without damaging either! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dancinnanner.gif)

I bought one of the cheap flare nut crows foot wrench sets from Walmart and a 3/8" flexible ratcheting T-Bar from Harbor Freight.

These made removing and reinstalling the driver's side hard line's top flare nut on the proportioning valve possible. I honestly don't think I could have removed that top flare nut or reinstalled the new one without them!

I also used my trusty vintage 3" C-Jaw Vice Grips (favorite tool in my tool box!) to hold / brace the passenger side rubber hose fitting and the 11 mm flare nut crows foot on the hard line fitting with a 3/8 swivel head ratchet and a long 3/8 extension.

[rgalla9146]

Ancient brake hoses swell inside.
When this happens that caliper remains pressurised. It's also impossible to bleed.
If you heat the fitting with the hose attached you risk explosion.
Cut the hose off at the fitting.
Hold the steel tube fitting however you can in its present position to prevent
twisting, Turn the old rubber hose end piece off the tube fitting.
If the steel tubing is still in excellent condition with just the end fitting stuck,
heat the fitting only. It will free up easily.
This method is especially useful on 914 rear hoses just below the engine
shelf.
Use a brake adjusting tool and/or a vicegrip to lever the clip off the chassis
mount.

[Root_Werks]

Watch any episode of vice grip garage....

LOL exactly! He always says "heat, juice, juice, heat, heat, juice, heat...repeat..." using some sort of penetrant like kroil or PB Blaster

He also tries to tighten the nuts as well as loosen them and has a wrench on both sides to try to prevent snapping an ancient hard line.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Just went through this on some crusty fittings. It works.