Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

3 Pages V  1 2 3 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Where to run the hoses
guiltless
post Oct 5 2005, 02:38 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 187
Joined: 7-August 05
From: Dana Point Ca
Member No.: 4,552



I have seen a few different ways to run hoses on a car that is using a front mount radiator.

I really have no desire to run copper piping through the cab of the car so that is out of the question.
I have also seen alot of people running the rubber hoses under the car and down the center. I am sure that it is a great way, but it scares me a bit, especicaly when speed bumps come around.

Is it possible to run the hoses through the center channel of the car?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
dmenche914
post Oct 5 2005, 02:52 PM
Post #2


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,212
Joined: 27-February 03
From: California
Member No.: 366



No way any cooling hoses would fit int he center tunnel, plus you have a moving shift rod to contend with, too tight. What alot of folks do is run metal pipes under the car on each side of the center tunnel (there is a depression in the floor pan underside on both sides of the tunnel. i have seen galvanized pipe used, maybe it was 1 1/2 inch diameter i think, and i have also seen flat rectangular steeel tubing used, with the ends tappered to a round pipe to allow the hoses to clamp on. these metal pipes will tuck intot he depression, they stick down a little bit, but you basically are hitting bottom anyway by the time you hit the pipes. By using steel, you will not crush them, and be fine (copper would more likely dent or crush).

Do NOT run rubber hoses under the car, as hitting them with somthing sharp will rip them. good rubber hose is more money per foot than steel pipe, it will need to be replaced form aging if not torn first, and the steel pipe will aid cooling as it will radiate much more heat than a rubber hose.

Never run rubber hoses in the cockpit, like mine were thru the heater pipes, and up behind the speaker grills. A leaky hose burned my foot, hot anti freeze is not to be in the cockpit in a rubber hose unless you can complety shield the folks inside from a pressurized leak spraying out.

i really think under the car, down the middle on either side of the tunnel using steel round or rectangular tubing is the best bet. The rectangular is more money and work, but will gain you maybe 1/2 inch more ground clearance, but either are very good options.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
guiltless
post Oct 5 2005, 02:57 PM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 187
Joined: 7-August 05
From: Dana Point Ca
Member No.: 4,552



That is EXACTLY what I was looking for.

Thank you very much.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Crazyhippy
post Oct 5 2005, 03:02 PM
Post #4


Insert witty comment here...
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,659
Joined: 28-July 05
From: Home of the Coyotes, AZ
Member No.: 4,493
Region Association: None



I ve driven 35-40 converted cars w/ hoses under the car, and never had a problem cutting them. I have had cars go off track into the baren desert (right rear blowout (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) ) hitting rocks and all kinds of stuff, and not cut a hose.

I have also seen motors overheat severly due to running steel pipe under the car, bottoming on a speedbump (i think he drove off a curb backing out of the driveway) and partially crushing the pipe.

If you use pipe, be sure it is strong enough to support the weight of the car, rubber hoses bounce back, steel pipes do not.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
dmenche914
post Oct 5 2005, 03:56 PM
Post #5


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,212
Joined: 27-February 03
From: California
Member No.: 366



i agree, the tubing to use is thick walled, do not use thin walled stuff like electrical conduit, use plumbing pipe, steel, not cast iron.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
banksyinoz
post Oct 5 2005, 06:00 PM
Post #6


finally getting back into it
**

Group: Members
Posts: 223
Joined: 17-June 05
From: queensland, aus
Member No.: 4,293
Region Association: Australia and New Zealand



the previouse owner of my 914 has installed a heater in the front and run the hoses through the sill panels its only 1-1/12in plenty of room
Q; when running pipes under the car where do u enter the pipes into front compartment /under tank or through holes infront of the suspension?

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
914GT
post Oct 5 2005, 06:43 PM
Post #7


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,101
Joined: 11-October 04
From: Tucson
Member No.: 2,923
Region Association: Southwest Region



3/4" steel pipe (common black pipe) fits nicely underneath if you want to take the time to bend it so it conforms to the indentations running under the center of the car. It will not crush and I routinely use my floor jack to raise the car under the pipes. I put a short length of 2" square steel tubing to distribute the weight across both pipes. The pipe is bent to aim up into the bottom of the front trunk and can be cut off right under the steering rack. From there you can transition to 1" ID rubber heater hose (Gates or equiv.) to the radiator. The bottom cover under the rack is notched in two places to clearance the pipe.


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
banksyinoz
post Oct 5 2005, 07:15 PM
Post #8


finally getting back into it
**

Group: Members
Posts: 223
Joined: 17-June 05
From: queensland, aus
Member No.: 4,293
Region Association: Australia and New Zealand



thanks now the water pump front or back cut the front and im done there (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)


Attached File(s)
Attached File  9141004.zip ( 298.34k ) Number of downloads: 81
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
banksyinoz
post Oct 5 2005, 07:57 PM
Post #9


finally getting back into it
**

Group: Members
Posts: 223
Joined: 17-June 05
From: queensland, aus
Member No.: 4,293
Region Association: Australia and New Zealand



forget that pic i worked it out i think (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:00 PM
Post #10


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



Lot's of opinions on this. For my 2 cents, I'm just finishing up my system. I used marine exhaust hose, with wire, under the car. It's expensive, but, it's got a nice lining, bends without flatening and I don't think anything ever hitting under the car would cut through it. I ran one piece all the way for both of them - no joints anywhere. On entering the front compartment I have the hoses passing through copper sweat fittings to hold them at 90 degrees against the gas tank bulkhead. Using a Griffin radiator it even cools fine (190) with only one of the 2 pusher fans running. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
Just a slight setback - the radiator was "seeping" about a tablespoon every 1 hour run, so I just pulled it and sent it back to Griffin. We'll see if they live up to their good reputation.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:15 PM
Post #11


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



Found some pics of the hoses. This is prior to installing the inlet shrouding & cover plate..........


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:17 PM
Post #12


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



My mistake - old pic - try this one............


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:20 PM
Post #13


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



and this.................


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:21 PM
Post #14


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



and this...........


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:21 PM
Post #15


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



and this...............
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 6 2005, 01:22 PM
Post #16


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



well, maybe this one (rushing too much)...........


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jsteele22
post Oct 6 2005, 03:46 PM
Post #17


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 727
Joined: 24-August 05
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Member No.: 4,653



QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Oct 5 2005, 01:52 PM)


Never run rubber hoses in the cockpit, like mine were thru the heater pipes, and up behind the speaker grills. A leaky hose burned my foot, hot anti freeze is not to be in the cockpit in a rubber hose unless you can complety shield the folks inside from a pressurized leak spraying out.

Excellent point. I've been starting to think about plumbing in heat , and was thinking of heat as a luxury, not a hazard !
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
guiltless
post Oct 7 2005, 01:08 AM
Post #18


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 187
Joined: 7-August 05
From: Dana Point Ca
Member No.: 4,552



Tyler, is that a hole in the front of the car to allow airflow? I was wondering if that could/should be done.

What do other people think about cutting there? It looks like an important support place for the car, but I could be wrong if people are cutting it away.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tyler
post Oct 7 2005, 07:56 AM
Post #19


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 335
Joined: 24-September 03
From: southern california
Member No.: 1,192



Yes, that's the air inlet which now has ducting to the fans, an air scoop and a protective screen. I really wanted to have an inlet in the middle of the bumper, where the license plate goes so the air would go straight in but that's not an easy cut. As it turns out, cooling works fine the way it is.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
marks914
post Oct 7 2005, 09:59 AM
Post #20


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 845
Joined: 9-October 04
From: the motor city
Member No.: 2,912
Region Association: None



I didnt know Griffin made a dual pass radiator. Was it pricey? I am interested to know how well it works.

Mark
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

3 Pages V  1 2 3 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 2nd January 2025 - 10:00 AM