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> Subaru Fever, Choices, choices--2.5 or 2.0 T....
airsix
post Oct 27 2005, 11:51 PM
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There was a thread a while back where we all reported weights from weighing our cars. Most were under 2,300lb wet. You can probably find the thread with a search.

-Ben M.
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fiid
post Oct 28 2005, 02:01 AM
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QUOTE (soloracer @ Oct 27 2005, 09:06 PM)
Funny but I thought most of the guys here were looking at a curb weight of 2200 lbs - with a V8 engine no less. Don't know where you got that 914 curb weight from. My car weighs 1400 lbs without an engine. Can't imagine a Type IV weighing 1400 lbs - can you?

If it did - Sir Andy and myself lifted 700lbs each this past Sunday.

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banksyinoz
post Oct 28 2005, 03:00 AM
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QUOTE (soloracer @ Oct 27 2005, 08:49 AM)

A 300 HP peripheral port 12A in N/A form is pretty impressive. A friend of mine has just finished building his 13B PP and is hoping to make similar power numbers. We are starting on my 20B three rotor peripheral port build next week. Just waiting for the high compression rotors and peripheral port housings to come in. I'm aiming for 450 HP in N/A form. Won't know how close we come until I get the engine in the 914 and running which will probably be another year or so away.

goddamn hallelujah im not alone yeah the 300hp 12a(14,000)rpm 51mm ida webber with extended bowl

cant wait to see a 20bpp in a 914 insane (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) please post pics

we just did one here in a series 2 rx7 with 51mm throttles injected but havent seen it run as yet but the engine was built for circuit work
Q; will you use the better series 6 corner seals and springs (better springs)


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ArtechnikA
post Oct 28 2005, 06:29 AM
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QUOTE (effutuo101 @ Oct 28 2005, 12:54 AM)
...I would only need to see about 330-350 at the wheels to match the Z06. 300 would be reliable. And the Vette wouldn't be able to take me for a walk. I think that we could do a suby conversion that would embarass a Vette owner.

have a look at the brake & tire package included in a Z06's curb weight...

there are plenty of Corvette poseurs, but the ones i've seen at SCCA events who are serious about it have been doing it a long time and *they can drive*.

you can't just stuff a lot of power in an otherwise balanced package and go embarrass anyone (else).
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ottox914
post Oct 28 2005, 07:20 AM
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My car, a '73, with me in it, 1/4 tank, and most of the legal lightening that can be done for DSP is at 2200 even, and I go maybe 170 myself. I seem to recall a weight for the early cars at 1984# from the factory.
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soloracer
post Oct 28 2005, 09:47 AM
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QUOTE (banksyinoz @ Oct 28 2005, 01:00 AM)
QUOTE (soloracer @ Oct 27 2005, 08:49 AM)

A 300 HP peripheral port 12A in N/A form is pretty impressive.  A friend of mine has just finished building his 13B PP and is hoping to make similar power numbers.  We are starting on my 20B three rotor peripheral port build next week.   Just waiting for the high compression rotors and peripheral port housings to come in. I'm aiming for 450 HP in N/A form.  Won't know how close we come until I get the engine in the 914 and running which will probably be another year or so away.

goddamn hallelujah im not alone yeah the 300hp 12a(14,000)rpm 51mm ida webber with extended bowl

cant wait to see a 20bpp in a 914 insane (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/boldblue.gif) please post pics

we just did one here in a series 2 rx7 with 51mm throttles injected but havent seen it run as yet but the engine was built for circuit work
Q; will you use the better series 6 corner seals and springs (better springs)

Looks like a beauty. We are using the stock Mazda 2mm apex seals but I don't know what series they are from or what series the corner seals and springs are from. I'll have to ask my friend since he ordered the parts. When the rotors get in we are going to get them clearanced for high RPM operation. Did you do this as well? I also ordered the Tweakit individual throttle body kit. I noticed that you went with the 51 mm throttle bodies. I ordered the 55 mm throttle bodies. Was there a reason you went smaller? I might have to start a new thread so we can discuss this further without hijacking this one. Good to see someone with experience on 3 rotors here.
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WRX914
post Oct 28 2005, 10:28 AM
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Hello folks...

Dana from Renegade was my roomate, he and I were racing around vegas last night, and he gave me weights on his car as taken from a local semi scale that is split forward and back. He told me that he drove the car so the front tires were on the forward scale, and the rear tires on the back. The weight with him (165lbs) in the car with a full tank of gas was 2,180 lbs. And he told me the weight distribution is exactly 50/50. Speaking with Dana, I get the impression that a radiator in the engine bay is totally possible, it is just not the way they prefer to do it. I am not a "Renegade junkie", as it were, but I do like the radiator and many products that they do fab. They really do make quality products. I just don't feel like going out on a limb and risking my EJ20T because I don't want to cut my fenders. I personally do not care about cutting the fenders as I am using my car primarily as a commuter, and something to have fun with on the weekends. If I need to haul something, I will use my truck! But I personally know that Renegad's radiator solution works, and works very well. The radiator and it's twin fans remove heat and remove it very quickly. When Dana would come home in the middle of the summer (120 degrees +), his car's fans would only kick on after he shut it down, and then would only be on for a minute or two max. Anyway, the long and short of it is that this conversion can be performed a variety of ways, I am sure that if you are a qualified individual, and do your homework, your project will turn out fine. One note... If you use the Renegade radiator, you may then use an aftermarket intercooler that can be mounted in front of the engine... More dense air charge, and it opens up the engine bay to use aftermarket BOV's for that super loud Psssssssssshhhhhhh between shifts!

Just my two and a half cents worth...
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Matt Monson
post Oct 28 2005, 11:55 AM
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If you are using a Subaru ECU and MAF, do NOT use an aftermarket atmospheric BOV. The recirculation BOV is there for a reason, and atmospheric ones confuse the MAF and ECU and offer ZERO performance value. The factory BOV is good for up to 25psi. If you must have that pssss sound, get the the Go Fast Bits hybrid valve. It returns enough air for the computer, but still gives you that noise...
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ArtechnikA
post Oct 28 2005, 12:37 PM
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QUOTE (Matt Monson @ Oct 28 2005, 01:55 PM)
...If you must have that pssss sound, get the the Go Fast Bits hybrid valve. It returns enough air for the computer, but still gives you that noise...

if all you want is the sound, you can get an electronic noisemaker that works from a microswitch on the throttle link or the clutch. they show up on EBay all the time... and no worries with all that bothersome turbo plumbing...

:-)
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banksyinoz
post Oct 28 2005, 06:24 PM
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QUOTE (Matt Monson @ Oct 28 2005, 09:55 AM)
If you are using a Subaru ECU and MAF, do NOT use an aftermarket atmospheric BOV. The recirculation BOV is there for a reason, and atmospheric ones confuse the MAF and ECU and offer ZERO performance value. The factory BOV is good for up to 25psi. If you must have that pssss sound, get the the Go Fast Bits hybrid valve. It returns enough air for the computer, but still gives you that noise...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif)
correct as the air flow meter reads the air then adds the right amount of fuel the engine is happy but when the bov vents the excess boost to atmosphere it in turn overfuels the mixture
this will give you lovely big flames out of the exhaust
but the cost will be the risk of fouling plugs

therefore if ya gotta have all the fast and furious then use a Manifold Air Pressure style computer as they dont have to use the plumbback system (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)
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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:36 PM
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Finally, got time to take some pix of the reason for this thread--the tired 1.8


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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:38 PM
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Front shot of Mary Harmon (purchased originally by an avid Alabama fan who revered the Bear)


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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:39 PM
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And, the other half.....


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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:41 PM
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some rust on the sides at the jack sockets...


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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:43 PM
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and, here too...really, not bad rust except the left long


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tgbo
post Oct 28 2005, 07:48 PM
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As soon as the engine hunt is over, its time to root out the tinworm and build a motormount....Tony, is your mount working out as well as you hoped? If I recall correctly, you were planning similar body points to what Scott did...

Off on vacation for a week, hoping my good friend Pete buys his TIG before I get back!!!

John
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plymouth37
post Oct 29 2005, 11:04 AM
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QUOTE (audioculture @ Oct 28 2005, 08:28 AM)
Hello folks...

Dana from Renegade was my roomate, he and I were racing around vegas last night, and he gave me weights on his car as taken from a local semi scale that is split forward and back.  He told me that he drove the car so the front tires were on the forward scale, and the rear tires on the back.  The weight with him (165lbs) in the car with a full tank of gas was 2,180 lbs.  And he told me the weight distribution is exactly 50/50.  Speaking with Dana, I get the impression that a radiator in the engine bay is totally possible, it is just not the way they prefer to do it.  I am not a "Renegade junkie", as it were, but I do like the radiator and many products that they do fab.  They really do make quality products.  I just don't feel like going out on a limb and risking my EJ20T because I don't want to cut my fenders.  I personally do not care about cutting the fenders as I am using my car primarily as a commuter, and something to have fun with on the weekends.  If I need to haul something, I will use my truck!  But I personally know that Renegad's radiator solution works, and works very well.  The radiator and it's twin fans remove heat and remove it very quickly.  When Dana would come home in the middle of the summer (120 degrees +), his car's fans would only kick on after he shut it down, and then would only be on for a minute or two max.  Anyway, the long and short of it is that this conversion can be performed a variety of ways, I am sure that if you are a qualified individual, and do your homework, your project will turn out fine.  One note...  If you use the Renegade radiator, you may then use an aftermarket intercooler that can be mounted in front of the engine...  More dense air charge, and it opens up the engine bay to use aftermarket BOV's for that super loud Psssssssssshhhhhhh between shifts!

Just my two and a half cents worth...

thanks Keith, I couldn't have said it better myself. I am glad to see that so many people are interested in the Subaru engines, they really hold a lot of potential. I wish you all the best of luck on your projects. if any one is looking for nice EJ20 or EJ25T engines give 1-586-615-7455 a call, talk to Frank. Keith and I both bought our EJ20s from him and they are in great shape.
Dana.
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plymouth37
post Oct 29 2005, 11:08 AM
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QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Oct 28 2005, 10:37 AM)

if all you want is the sound, you can get an electronic noisemaker that works from a microswitch on the throttle link or the clutch.  they show up on EBay all the time... and no worries with all that bothersome turbo plumbing...

:-)

I was thinking of plumbing a duck call into my BOV line. nothing says race car like a nice Quack between gears! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/driving.gif)
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