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> Subaru transmission installation, Now it's a reality!!!
d914
post Feb 10 2006, 06:29 PM
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I don't see just ordering the sleeve as an issue for them. Line item pricing was by the part...Nothing fancy in the cover!!
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Mueller
post Feb 10 2006, 07:12 PM
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Steve,

Check out this company for the axle/CV.....

Moore Performance
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Porcharu
post Feb 11 2006, 12:47 AM
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QUOTE (d914 @ Feb 10 2006, 01:53 PM)
fwd cover= a junk yard piece or the new billet piece??

Junk yard or Suby dealer part. About $150 new ordered from Japan - 6 week lead time. I found a used trans instead.
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Porcharu
post Feb 11 2006, 12:52 AM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 10 2006, 05:12 PM)
Steve,

Check out this company for the axle/CV.....

Moore Performance

Get back to work Mike! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ar15.gif)
That place is on the 4th or 5th page of a web search for "custom CV flanges"

Logan (my new baby son) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif) was out in the garage "helping" today - he slept throught bandsawing, drilling, sanding/grinding and welding.
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jimkelly
post Feb 11 2006, 07:00 AM
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Better get some ear and eye protection for yourself.

I'm am not a expert on babies but - sleeping or not - I'd say Logan would be better off inside the house with a baby sitter?

I'd contact Micheal Jackson and the Aussy Aligator Dude as they probably know better how to get little ones safe : )
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Porcharu
post Feb 11 2006, 11:18 AM
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QUOTE (jimkelly @ Feb 11 2006, 05:00 AM)
Better get some ear and eye protection for yourself.

I'm am not a expert on babies but - sleeping or not - I'd say Logan would be better off inside the house with a baby sitter?

I'd contact Micheal Jackson and the Aussy Aligator Dude as they probably know better how to get little ones safe : )

He was well out of harms way in a far corner. The bandsaw and the sander is pretty quiet and I was welding under the car. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) I always use eye and ear protection now that my ears ring 24/7 from abuse when was young and stupid and didn't think grinders and hammers were loud.
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jimkelly
post Feb 11 2006, 03:00 PM
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Good to hear (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

welding, grinding, cutting - hum - do I smell progress?

Jim
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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 01:49 AM
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QUOTE (jimkelly @ Feb 11 2006, 01:00 PM)
Good to hear (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

welding, grinding, cutting - hum - do I smell progress?

Jim

Some progress. I have the engine and trans in place and ready to make mounts. I made a tripod setup to hold the engine and trans - it has adjustable feet so I can position everything just right.
I got the FWD drive trans and it was a bust, the rear cover does not fit the AWD trans. So I put the AWD case back on and it fits better than I remember, it just needs a little trimming of the muffler shield.
Will post pictures later.
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jimkelly
post Feb 12 2006, 04:52 AM
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Sorry to hear about the fwd rear cover - would have been nice to gain some extra space but I think exhaust should be the easier of the challenges.

Are you planning on using stock exhaust manifolds to save $'s - or is there a reasonably priced header out there for our application?

I assume whether one has a newer hydraulic clutch or an older cable operated clutch disengagment system - the linkage for shifting gears will be the same?

Thanks,

Jim


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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 12:16 PM
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I don't think the stock exhaust will fit - I think it hangs to low but I have not confirmed this. Cobb tuning makes a nice header but it's $$$ and it looks like it would hang to low anyway. I think I will be making my own header or using the Outback motor stubs to make up something quick and easy.
The shift mechanism (I'm still thinking rod not cable) will be the same for a AWD or FWD, I was supprised to see that the shift rod is the same lenght on both transmissions.
The FWD cover may still work with a little persuading in a mill, but my mill is not ready for use yet.
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jimkelly
post Feb 12 2006, 12:52 PM
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Yeah - shift rod - I noticed that too - that they appear to be about the same length - or at least reach to same distance rearward per pics on page 12 - thus the fwd rear cover - still would not free up all the space that a typical 914 muffler would occupy.

For part of today I thought the fwd rear cover was a - MYTH BUSTED : )

So you are gonna hold off on making the engine and tranny mount untill you can get the fwd rear housing milled?

Jim



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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 01:07 PM
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QUOTE (jimkelly @ Feb 12 2006, 10:52 AM)
For part of today I thought the fwd rear cover was a - MYTH BUSTED : )

So you are gonna hold off on making the engine and tranny mount untill you can get the fwd rear housing milled?

Jim

FWD cover would still get you more room on bottom. I was suprised to see how little was gained/lost with the 2 different covers. The only thing needed to make the AWD cover fit would be notch the muffler shield or gring the rib off of the top of the cover. The rib isn't doing anything without the AWD stuff so it can be safely removed.

I am going to make mounts for both the AWD and the FWD transmissions.
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Mueller
post Feb 12 2006, 01:13 PM
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QUOTE
The FWD cover may still work with a little persuading in a mill, but my mill is not ready for use yet.


I'm home all day today (gotta leave by 7:00 to see the girls tonight (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) )

I'm also probebly going to take Wed. or Thrusday off and play around the house as well.......

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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 01:24 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 12 2006, 11:13 AM)
QUOTE
The FWD cover may still work with a little persuading in a mill, but my mill is not ready for use yet.


I'm home all day today (gotta leave by 7:00 to see the girls tonight (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) )

I'm also probebly going to take Wed. or Thrusday off and play around the house as well.......

Is your mill up and running? Want to make some chips on Wed?
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Mueller
post Feb 12 2006, 01:25 PM
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does anyone have a list or know of what years or models of suby transmissions are direct replacements for each other?

with this "kit" you are thinking of, would one be tied into just one model year or ????

what about the engines?

just thinking outloud (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)
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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 03:35 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 12 2006, 11:25 AM)
does anyone have a list or know of what years or models of suby transmissions are direct replacements for each other?

with this "kit" you are thinking of, would one be tied into just one model year or ????

what about the engines?

just thinking outloud (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

I "think" the engine and trans mounts are the same for all of the modern Subarus. All of that I have seen look the same. The FWD and AWD have different mounts.

Edit:
Here is some more info on Suby engines. From the swap section on NASIOC
NASIOC link

Q: "Can I put a into my ?"
A: Subaru has a high interchangability rate as far as drivetrain components go. If your car came with an EJ series engine, then any other EJ series engine will "drop" into your chassis. I say "drop" because while they do share the same engine mounts, some other components may be required to change first before the engine can go in. Think Legos.


Q: "What is an 'EJ' series engine?"
A: EJ is the engine code for many Subaru engines. It is thought to have the following definition: E-Engine and J-H4. They are commonly found in the Impreza, Legacy, Liberty (overseas Legacy), Forester, and WRX. The typical naming convention is the engine code followed by the engine size. ie: a 1.8L engine from a 1993 Subaru Impreza is EJ18.


Q: "I have , what are my swap options?"
A: Lets go over the model history first:
EJ18: Found in Imprezas from 1993-1997. Rated at 110hp and 120 ft-lbs
EJ22 Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1990-1998 and Imprezas from 1995-1998. Comes rated at 130hp and 137 ft-lbs, 135hp and 140 ft-lbs, or 137hp and 145 ft-lbs.
EJ22 Phase II: Found in Legacies in 1999 and Imprezas from 1999-2001. Rated at 142hp and 149 ft-lbs.
EJ22-T Phase I: Found in Sport Sedan and Touring Wagons (Legacies) from 1990-1994. Turbocharged and non-intercooled. Rated at 160hp and 181 ft-lbs. Closed deck, cast pistons, forged rods, oil squirters: turbo motor. Poor flowing heads.
EJ25 DOHC Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1996-1999, Imprezas in 1998, and Foresters in 1998. Rated at either 155hp and 140 ft-lbs in 1996 or 165hp and 162 ft-lbs in 1997-1999.
EJ25 SOHC Phase II: Found in Legacies from 2000+, Imprezas from 1999+, and Foresters from 1999+. Rated at 165hp and 166 ft-lbs. There was a slight compression ratio change from 1999-2000 where it went from 9.7:1 to 10.0:1.
USDM EJ20: US Domestic Market WRX. Found in 2002+ WRXs. Rated at 227hp and 217 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, open deck, and decent heads.
EJ25T DOHC: Available in 2004 in the Forester XT. Rated at 210hp and 235 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, VVTi (Variable Valve Timing), and drive by wire.
EJ25T-STi DOHC: Available in 2004 in the WRX STi. Rated at 300hp and 300 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, AVCS (Active Valve Control System), drive by wire, intercooler sprayer, and semi-closed design.

There is also a large variety of engines available from the JDM and EDM locales. The EG33 from the SVX and the EZ30 from the new H6 Legacy can also be found, but they are larger and will be more difficult to swap.

With that out of the way, the choices are pretty limitless. As stated previously, since these are all EJ series engines, they will all bolt into any Forester, Impreza, or Legacy.


More

Q: "Can I use with ?"
A: The answer is almost a resounding yes. All EJ series engines share the same bolt pattern on the bellhousing. While some use fewer bolts than others, they will still bolt up.

One caution: the turbo transmissions use a pull-style clutch whereas the NA transmissions use a push-style clutch. If you are swapping transmission types, you need to match the transmission up with the correct clutch/flywheel assembly.

One more precaution: if you are swapping in a transmission, you need to be sure that your rear differential final drive ratio matches the final drive ratio of your transmissions. Installing a new transmission without checking this could permanently damage your center differential! Putting an engine from a FWD car into an AWD car or vice versa does not change the swap criteria as it will still all bolt together.

Thirdly, the older transmissions use a different shift linkage joint attaching to the shift forks of the transmission. The older transmissions have a fork that attaches to the rest of the shift linkage whereas the newer transmissions have a barrel joint. This must be updated if you are to change from an older tranny to a newer one or vice versa. It is believed that the older style shift linkage was used up until 1997. Beyond 1996, the transmission linkage should be the new style.

Finally, the older transmissions utilize a stud on the transmission for mounting the lower hole of the flange of the starter. If you swap in a newer transmission onto an older block, the block will not have the threads for the lower starter bolt. Some have reported success with just using the upper starter bolt, others have tapped a hole into the block.NASIOC link

This post has been edited by Porcharu: Feb 13 2006, 01:37 AM
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Mueller
post Feb 12 2006, 04:05 PM
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QUOTE (Porcharu @ Feb 12 2006, 12:24 PM)
Is your mill up and running?  Want to make some chips on Wed?

yep, mill works....gotta do G-code commands for multiple axis movement at the same time or keyboard inputs (curser keys to move in .0001" to 5" increments)

I'll schedual to take Wed. off.
Sonu (he's got the Audi 1.8T motor and Audi gear box in his 914) might show up as well to pick up some metal I am giving him.

oh yea, no making fun of my messy garage, or workshop or my mickey mouse engieering of my CNC mill or ???? hahaha
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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 06:58 PM
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Made a little more progress over the last few days between parents visiting, watching the baby and fixing the daily driver. 1st I made up a tripod to replace the jack to allow for precise positioning of the engine and transmission.


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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 07:00 PM
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Checking the CV clearance


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Porcharu
post Feb 12 2006, 07:01 PM
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Then I worked on getting the Saker conversion parts put on. Here is the adaptor sleeve.


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