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> Subaru transmission installation, Now it's a reality!!!
Mueller
post Feb 14 2006, 04:25 PM
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QUOTE (Porcharu @ Feb 13 2006, 11:48 PM)
QUOTE (bernbomb914 @ Feb 13 2006, 09:25 PM)
does anyone know how the sub. automatic Trans. would work? and how strong is it with the higher HP. a old man wants to know

Bernie

Look back in this thread - autos were lightly discussed. They seem to have lots of electronics to control them. I don't see why they wouldn't work. They might even work with the mounts I am developing. I have heard that they work pretty good with modest power (less than 200HP)

in AUS. a lot of the more popular and more HP driven Subaru drag cars use the autoboxes, supposed to be better than the manual boxes......


QUOTE
Here is the 2 shafts that will be locked together with the sleeve. In AWD mode the larger shaft drives the center differential and the smaller shaft gets power from the center diff.


so in theory, one should be able to drill a hole thru both the OD shaft and inner shaft and pin them together or even weld them together?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)

Steve, get your metal today? Logans a cute little guy (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)
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Porcharu
post Feb 14 2006, 04:56 PM
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QUOTE (Mueller @ Feb 14 2006, 02:25 PM)



QUOTE
Here is the 2 shafts that will be locked together with the sleeve. In AWD mode the larger shaft drives the center differential and the smaller shaft gets power from the center diff.


so in theory, one should be able to drill a hole thru both the OD shaft and inner shaft and pin them together or even weld them together?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)

Steve, get your metal today? Logans a cute little guy (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

I guess you could do something like that to lock them together but then you are making the pinion gear part of the transmission shaft, and the sleeve only costs about $70 bucks and takes 10 minutes to install.

I got metal - ready to go out an chop it up (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sawzall-smiley.gif) in preparation for drilling on your mill. We need a grinding and drilling smiley.
Gotta go get the sweetheart some flowers first. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

I have to admit he is a cute litte guy. Slept the whole time I was out - even in the steel place.
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Mueller
post Feb 16 2006, 01:44 AM
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Steve,

Just for referance, I measured a 914 axle and a 911 axle (at the splines)

914 = 1.04"

911 = 1.19"

so the CV's could not interchange between the 2....
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jimkelly
post Feb 16 2006, 07:58 AM
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I thought I read somewhere that auto's are better for turbo because they shift to the next gear quicker thus keeping rpms up thus the turbo stays spooled. May be a myth??

Jim
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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:44 AM
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Finally made some progress on the axles. I got a filthy nasty bus axle and a VW transmission flange today. The bus axle is indeed 1.5" shorter than the 914 axle. The splines are the same except the bus has 4mm longer splines (the 914 CV needs a spacer/washer to be used on the bus axle) The bus CV is the same size as the 944 CV (100mm in diameter) I think the 944 CV has smaller CV balls than the bus CV.


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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:45 AM
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Here is the 914 and the bus axles side by side


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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:46 AM
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Outer CV's removed.


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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:47 AM
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Splines - looks just like the 944 vs 914 splines.


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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:49 AM
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The hybrid bus/914 axle assembly. I don't know if the 944 or the bus CV's are better in this application - or if it really matters at all. I think the smaller CV balls of the 944 would allow it to have move extension than the bus CV's.


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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 01:03 AM
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Here is how the prototype flange will be made. The area "cut here" will be cut to obtain the correct overall flange length then the two flanges will be welded together and sent off to the machine shop as an example.


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jimkelly
post Feb 21 2006, 05:22 AM
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Steve,

Nice progress!

Will the custom flange be one piece ( with output stub attached ) or will it be two piece with the custom flange sliding onto the output stub and roll pinned on.

are these the bus axle assys needed? bus 1968-1979.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...ode=C13-90-6903

Jim
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atsealevel914
post Feb 21 2006, 07:00 AM
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Thanks for the update! I noted what you said about having to remove the trailing arm if I went with custom axles and Im going to do the same thing your doing but im not convinced. I think the welded up flange will warp when welded and be out of round. Do you know if this will happen? Is there a method to avoid this out of round situation? what do you think?
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jimkelly
post Feb 21 2006, 07:19 AM
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I think Steve is only welding up the flange to give the machinst what is essentially a finished looking product. I expect the machinist will make a part that is one piece and solid - with no welds??

Jim

motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount

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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:13 PM
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QUOTE (jimkelly @ Feb 21 2006, 05:19 AM)
I think Steve is only welding up the flange to give the machinst what is essentially a finished looking product. I expect the machinist will make a part that is one piece and solid - with no welds??

Jim

motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount
motor mount

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif)

Correct - the "real" flange will be one piece and made of correct steel (4340 off the top of my head.) The flange will be for the normal Subaru stub axle not the 2005 one-piece deal like I have.
The motor mount is being designed in my head while I collect parts for the tubing bender. I am making it so the engine can stay in place while you pull the transmission. I just ordered the dies and a very slick computer bending program. I hope to have the bender completed in a week.
I have been looking into radiators and I think a Suby radiator is the way to go because you can use the suby radiator hoses. I need to order one soon.
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jsteele22
post Feb 21 2006, 12:16 PM
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Hi Jim,

Can you show a pic (or a link to one) of how the subaru flange mates up with the subaru tranny ? I'm just trying to imagine what this final hybrid flange assembly is going to look like : is the machinist gonna have to cut splines ?


I'm no machinist, but one idea that I think might be feasable (shoot me down...) is to weld a slightly oversized plate onto the subaru flange, then chock it up in a lathe and turn a round, flat and perpendicular surface on it. Depending on the complexity of the Subaru flange, this could be a much easier approach than machining the whole thing from scratch.

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airsix
post Feb 21 2006, 12:30 PM
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I think using cut and welded flange combos is a very real and feasable possibility. Driveline shops do this sort of thing all the time. I have a Toyota 4x4 that has been rebuilt with a stronger Dana CV welded up to the Toyota flange. No issues with it at all. Rather than going to a do-it-all machine-shop I'd go to a driveline specialist because they do this sort of thing all day long.

-Ben M.
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Porcharu
post Feb 21 2006, 12:42 PM
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QUOTE (jsteele22 @ Feb 21 2006, 10:16 AM)
Hi Jim,

Can you show a pic (or a link to one) of how the subaru flange mates up with the subaru tranny ? I'm just trying to imagine what this final hybrid flange assembly is going to look like : is the machinist gonna have to cut splines ?


I'm no machinist, but one idea that I think might be feasable (shoot me down...) is to weld a slightly oversized plate onto the subaru flange, then chock it up in a lathe and turn a round, flat and perpendicular surface on it. Depending on the complexity of the Subaru flange, this could be a much easier approach than machining the whole thing from scratch

While I know that the welded flange will work. I am doing this from the idea of being able to offer a kit to do this swap in the near future. Collecting parts to modify and weld would be a huge PITA. If I can get 5-10 people to buy flanges the cost will be similar to the modify-weld solution.

The Subaru flange slips onto a stub shaft in the transmission, it is retained with a roll pin. Look back in this thread for pics.

Yes cutting splines is required - that has been the problem with finding a shop to do this. I have found one that has the tooling and is willing to do small runs.
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jimkelly
post Feb 21 2006, 01:18 PM
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near future - does that sound nice or what ??

almost as nice a scoring lifetime dibs on the couch at the playboy mansion (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

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Mueller
post Feb 21 2006, 05:25 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/hijacked.gif)
just got off the phone with a buddy that went for a ride over the weekend in Eric T's Subaru 6 powered 914...he's trying to find Erics contact info so I can invite him over here....I know he was using a 914 transmission but for some reason I thought he was looking into using a Suby tranny as well....


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jimkelly
post Feb 25 2006, 12:08 PM
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Pics of my tailshifter linkage at the firewall.

Luckily I have at least one extra sideshifter shifter and center tunnel rod.

Cause if Steve goes with cables from the firewall to the tranny shift actuator from his sideshift rod from the firewall - I want to benefit from being able to use it too : )

Jim


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