Subaru transmission installation, Now it's a reality!!! Options

[Quilmes]

QUOTE (Porcharu @ Mar 21 2006, 11:26 AM)

This Subaru That's my next project! Imagine using the AWD trans to make a Syrcro from a regular van.

Keep me up to date on your project.

I just meet a person whom is finishing a VW Vanagon Syncro with a Audi MTM V6 Twin Turbo 420hp. Now that has to be a rocket, I was wondering how the trans holds up to all that power.

Do you think that if you can't turn around a ring and pinion in the Subaru trans box that maybe you could flip it up side down to get the wheels to trun in the other direction??? Something like what was done to lower the ride height on the 935's.
Do the bolt holes in the SVX and WRX engine line up if one flips the trans up side down?
Just a thought
I guess that you would still need to invent a shifter kit?

Quilmes

[jimkelly]

same mr2 shifter on ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-MR2-...1QQcmdZViewItem


Item number: 8048321355

[jimkelly]

hill-holder feature on sub tranny - I assume it can simply be left unhooked??

[speedster356]

The 550 spyder replica now has a Subaru 2.5 turbo and Kaaz LSD fitted in the FWD gearbox. It's running Subaru drive shafts with custom stub axles in the 914 hubs. The stub axles simply have a spine at each end, one end being 914 for the hub drive and the other being Subaru which fits into the outboard Subaru CV outer and is pinned. ( I'm sure you could machine the original 914 stub). A better way is to do what is being done by you guys and run 914 all the way out to the adaptor at the gearbox end as the 914 drive shafts look to be a bit bigger in dia. I'm currently redoing my CVs as they have some wear. I'll be fitting stock Subaru STI as they are a bit stronger than standard WRX. These CVs are currently running on a WRX drag car running 8.5 @ 141 MPH so they appear to be beefy enough.
As a side note, the 2.5 has great low and midrange power compared to the old 2.0 turbo. Interestingly my 2.5 1/4 times were not close to the 2.0ltr as the turbo runs out of puff at the top end and I don't think my ratios and 3.9 final drive is suited to the new power curve for the drags. Having said that, at the recent hillclimb which is what I really use my car for, we managed a new record beating the old by 3.5s. go figure???
The dyno told me that I have 250 hp at the rears but it just turned the track tires into smoke on the rollers so we suspect there may be a bit more HP there than shown. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

The radiator was moved from sitting in front of the engine and picking up air from under the car to sitting at the front of the car and getting air from the nose (I cut out the molded oil cooler grill at the front). This got rid of all my over temperature problems I'd had in the past. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif) Should have done it long ago...........

Other questions while I'm here.....
Are the 914 rear wheel bearings (double row angular contact) a standard size or are they only available as a Porsche part?
Are there aftermarket rear trailing arm bushes available in a harder material?
cheers from downunder

[Porcharu]

QUOTE (speedster356 @ Mar 29 2006, 03:54 AM)

The 550 spyder replica now has a Subaru 2.5 turbo and Kaaz LSD fitted in the FWD gearbox. It's running Subaru drive shafts with custom stub axles in the 914 hubs. The stub axles simply have a spine at each end, one end being 914 for the hub drive and the other being Subaru which fits into the outboard Subaru CV outer and is pinned. ( I'm sure you could machine the original 914 stub). A better way is to do what is being done by you guys and run 914 all the way out to the adaptor at the gearbox end as the 914 drive shafts look to be a bit bigger in dia. I'm currently redoing my CVs as they have some wear. I'll be fitting stock Subaru STI as they are a bit stronger than standard WRX. These CVs are currently running on a WRX drag car running 8.5 @ 141 MPH so they appear to be beefy enough. As a side note, the 2.5 has great low and midrange power compared to the old 2.0 turbo. Interestingly my 2.5 1/4 times were not close to the 2.0ltr as the turbo runs out of puff at the top end and I don't think my ratios and 3.9 final drive is suited to the new power curve for the drags. Having said that, at the recent hillclimb which is what I really use my car for, we managed a new record beating the old by 3.5s. go figure??? The dyno told me that I have 250 hp at the rears but it just turned the track tires into smoke on the rollers so we suspect there may be a bit more HP there than shown. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) The radiator was moved from sitting in front of the engine and picking up air from under the car to sitting at the front of the car and getting air from the nose (I cut out the molded oil cooler grill at the front). This got rid of all my over temperature problems I'd had in the past. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif) Should have done it long ago........... Other questions while I'm here..... Are the 914 rear wheel bearings (double row angular contact) a standard size or are they only available as a Porsche part? Are there aftermarket rear trailing arm bushes available in a harder material? cheers from downunder

How is that Kaaz lsd diff? Is that the one with the 2-way 1.5-way setup option?
That car sounds like a blast to drive.
What size is the radiator in your car? I am planning on running a very large single row radiator in mine to maximize the limited air flow in front of the radiator.
There are several hard material bushings for the trailing arms - there was a thread last week or so on the virtues of each type.

I was working on the car this evening hoping to get the second flange mockup and axle setup finished so I can make full travel measurements before having the flanges made when I discovered that I got an axle from an automatic bus. It's a 1/2" to short! This and my tube bender dies are the wrong ones and need to go back. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)
Hopefully get another axle tomarrow so I can at least get that stuff done.

[speedster356]

The Kaaz is a 1.5 way. The radiator is a triple row all aluminium, it's actually an aftermarket radiator for a Nissan 200 that happened to be on sale very cheaply at the time, I added a couple of 12" aftermarket fans, the inlet and outlet were only 1 3/8" but seem to be quite adequate. Yes thats a good idea increasing the frontal area of the radiator and reducing the core thickness.
The VW Beetle conversions here with the EJ20T are running Holden Camira (Opal 4 cyl), Alfa and the like radiators and are finding that the temps are actually to low!
Ensure there's plenty of air flow in and plenty of exit flow.
Better get back to fitting the new 914 rear wheel bearing........I've been looking at it all afternoon and I'm buggered if I can see the solid gold that this bearings made of (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif)
Cheers

[speedster356]

Found the limit of the Subaru FWD box yesterday. Had a practise day at a local circuit and was into about lap 20 of the second session of the day (about 1m.08s laps) when 3rd gear started clicking badly so it looks like I've lost a tooth or more. The box was red hot to the touch, I wonder if an oil cooler and pump would have helped?
I'll bury it with full honours.......2 seasons of hillclimbs (1st and 2nd gear prestart burnouts), 30 passes on the 1/4 mile, half a dozen supersprints all with over 200 HP at the wheels....that $100 secondhand gearbox served me well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) The price seems to have gone up, I now have to pay $200 for it's replacement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[atsealevel914]

Found the limit of the Subaru FWD box yesterday. Had a practise day at a local circuit and was into about lap 20 of the second session of the day (about 1m.08s laps) when 3rd gear started clicking badly so it looks like I've lost a tooth or more. The box was red hot to the touch, I wonder if an oil cooler and pump would have helped?
I'll bury it with full honours.......2 seasons of hillclimbs (1st and 2nd gear prestart burnouts), 30 passes on the 1/4 mile, half a dozen supersprints all with over 200 HP at the wheels....that $100 secondhand gearbox served me well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) The price seems to have gone up, I now have to pay $200 for it's replacement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Sweet! guess I wont have any problems with mine on the street. Can you tell me which lsd fits our FWD tranny (90-94 legacy)?

[speedster356]

KAAZ only list the one front LSD, the same part number for all the EJ range of 5 speed gearboxes.
Cusco also make an LSD or I think an STI viscous front LSD will fit?

[jimkelly]

$200 for a tranny - is that great or what ?

I have two 914 I want to put EJ22's and 5spd fwd tranny's into.

Nice to hear the fwd 5spd can handle that much : )

I won't be racing - just touring around town and some infrequent longish trips.

I pull my 2.0 tomorrow to sell to another club member.

I plan to replace the plastic fuel lines - first chance I get.

[speedster356]

Went to pick up my secondhand FWD box today but it's not a Liberty FWD but a smaller EJ 1.6 ltr FWD box. The bellhousing bolting is the same but it has a different gearbox housing so my existing shifter and g/box mounts won't fit!
So I'll have to use my other spare FWD box and rob the required gearset components from it to make a good box again.
My question to Porcharu is what was the reason the FWD rear housing didn't fit on the AWD box? You mentioned with some machining it might fit? The reason I'm asking is that I have been offered an rebuilt WRX AWD box with new STI gearset complete with a front LSD, it's missing the centre diff but that's perfect for me! If I could fit the FWD rear housing with minimal machine work then this will fit straight back into my existing mounts/shifter etc and give me a stronger box.

[Porcharu]

Went to pick up my secondhand FWD box today but it's not a Liberty FWD but a smaller EJ 1.6 ltr FWD box. The bellhousing bolting is the same but it has a different gearbox housing so my existing shifter and g/box mounts won't fit!
So I'll have to use my other spare FWD box and rob the required gearset components from it to make a good box again.
My question to Porcharu is what was the reason the FWD rear housing didn't fit on the AWD box? You mentioned with some machining it might fit? The reason I'm asking is that I have been offered an rebuilt WRX AWD box with new STI gearset complete with a front LSD, it's missing the centre diff but that's perfect for me! If I could fit the FWD rear housing with minimal machine work then this will fit straight back into my existing mounts/shifter etc and give me a stronger box.

The reason the FWD housing did not fit was because the lower shaft is longer on the AWD version. The FWD housing looks like would fit from the outside - but there is some extra aluminum in that area. I am almost certain that if you milled out that area it would fit just fine. Everything else is the same.

[speedster356]

Thanks for that, I'll get that gearbox then. I'll have a spare end housing if anyone needs one.
As a side note, the third gear problem was 3 teeth off the input shaft gear, and one slight chip on second gear tooth from debris in the box.

[jimkelly]

pic of my ej22 engine and 5spd fwd tranny

[jimkelly]

oops - that was empty engine bay of my donor 1993 legacy wagon

[jimkelly]

that was my motor and tranny

[speedster356]

 wrxwiring.bmp ( 350.74k ) Number of downloads: 236

that was my motor and tranny

Now the fun part begins.....wait untill you start stripping out the wiring loom, I had enough wire to electrify an office block!

[jsteele22]

Hey porscharu & others,

Yesterday I went off to a local pick-n-pull and got a (4wd) tranny. (I'll post more in my progress thread.) I wanted to get the splined cups off the inner CV joint as well (the part that the roll pin presses into, and which has the rubber boot clipped on), but the CV joint didn't just pull apart like I had hoped. (Thats probably a good thing, most of the time...) I didn't have enough paper towels to get all the slime out of the CV joint to see if there was a snap ring in there. Do you know of a picture or drawing that shows where the snap ring is located ?

Thanks,

Jeff (who just might be looking for a Saker coupling ring...)

[speedster356]

Hey porscharu & others,

Yesterday I went off to a local pick-n-pull and got a (4wd) tranny. (I'll post more in my progress thread.) I wanted to get the splined cups off the inner CV joint as well (the part that the roll pin presses into, and which has the rubber boot clipped on), but the CV joint didn't just pull apart like I had hoped. (Thats probably a good thing, most of the time...) I didn't have enough paper towels to get all the slime out of the CV joint to see if there was a snap ring in there. Do you know of a picture or drawing that shows where the snap ring is located ?

Thanks,

Jeff (who just might be looking for a Saker coupling ring...)

The snap ring sits inside the outer about 5 mm back from the edge, you should be able to slide a small flat bladed screwdriver in (up one of the ball grooves) and catch the ring. Not hard to remove. What year was the car, as I have the complete Subaru workshop manuals on CD and should be able to find info as required.

[jimkelly]

wiring ...

I'll be refering back to Tony' thread : ) and luckily my buddy is an electrical engineer - this shoudl help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=31579&st=80

Scott said...
that looks like you are mising a few plugs, but i cant see it all very well. dont tape it up too much you will probably have to open it up once to fix something.
-all the plugs i can think of are :
brain
2 o2 plugs
3 for engine connection
fuel pump relay
main realy
ignitor
obd connector
purge and pressure switching solinoids ( 2 plugs )
connection to relay board
-then loose wires are :
power
ground
speed sensor
temp sensor if you go stock
-then you need wires from the alt

Tony said...
Okay, so I will be simulating the following sensors..
Fuel level sender (0.12 to 4.95 volts)
Fuel Temp sender (2.5 to 3.8 volts)
Fuel Tank Pressure sender (2.3 to 2.7 volts)
Rear O2 sensor signal (0 - 0.9 volts)
Neutral position sensor (+12 in neutral, 0 when in gear)
Rear O2 heater sensor signal (0-1.0 volts)
Power Steering oil pressure sender (open/close)
There may be one more, I'm still finalizing the wiring...
Most of these wil use small 10-turn potentiometers to set the desired signal voltage, but I may end up using real metal-film resistors in the end, as they are a bit more reliable.