Subaru transmission installation, Now it's a reality!!! Options

[jsteele22]

Hey porscharu & others,

Yesterday I went off to a local pick-n-pull and got a (4wd) tranny. (I'll post more in my progress thread.) I wanted to get the splined cups off the inner CV joint as well (the part that the roll pin presses into, and which has the rubber boot clipped on), but the CV joint didn't just pull apart like I had hoped. (Thats probably a good thing, most of the time...) I didn't have enough paper towels to get all the slime out of the CV joint to see if there was a snap ring in there. Do you know of a picture or drawing that shows where the snap ring is located ?

Thanks,

Jeff (who just might be looking for a Saker coupling ring...)

The snap ring sits inside the outer about 5 mm back from the edge, you should be able to slide a small flat bladed screwdriver in (up one of the ball grooves) and catch the ring. Not hard to remove. What year was the car, as I have the complete Subaru workshop manuals on CD and should be able to find info as required.

It's a 1990. I think it was an Impreza (forgot that part (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ). But at least I did make sure it was an EJ engine this time... Anyway, just knowing that there is a snap ring in there helps a lot. When I go back, I'll bring a butt-load of paper towels with me.


Also, I may be wrong about this, but it seemed like those cups are made from two different kinds of metal : the splined sleeve itself, which has to be super hard, looked like it was bonded in somehow to the rest of the cup. Don't know if this helps any, but I keep picturing scenarios where you machine this sleeve out and use it somehow...

[jimkelly]

Porscharu has a great idea for the axles - very professional looking, strong and adaptable - using - from the tranny - a custom flange, to a vw bus axle cv, to vw bus axle, to a 914 cv - and will be bolt on for those of us without many tools.

What I really like about what Porscharu is doing is he is making all the basic parts needed to install an EJ series engine and ((subaru tranny)) into a 914 without the need to make many mods to the chassis - this will be a first - a uniform standard so that anyone can do this conversion cleanly and for a decent price(TBD)

I just delivered to my local fabricating guru buddy a set of subaru axle assys and a set of 914 axles assys - he is gonna cut them in half - mill both axles (the 914 outter half and the subaru inner halfs) down to the same diameter and then press each side onto a - steel sleeve with 45 degree cuts at each end - and weld the sleeve to the axle halfs. This is an alternate solution - I hope it works.

This week I will be pulling another motor - the EJ22 motor in my 1995 legacy sedan parts car - the engine has a bad knock but lots of engine components are compatible with the 1993 EJ22 I will be using and it has a nice radiator in it too.

[Porcharu]

Like Jim said I'm working on a nice flange for this purpose. In the end I think it will actually be cheaper to use the custom flange. Unless you actually have the Subaru cups, vw cv flanges and the tools to machine and weld the pieces together for nothing but your time the custom flanges will be the way to go. I have the design complete and I am working on getting some quotes for the machine work.
When the blogs are back up take a look at mine for some pictures.

[tgbo]

Jim, pix of your axles when done, please--I finally got my engine out of MI, and am waiting on the Subie axles (didn't get loaded in the box ). Wiring seems to be just time and being careful, Scott is right, don't wrap it up too much until it all sits in place......

John

[nsyr]

Just an update on my conversion. I have the 2 liter turbo with 9:1 compression and 91 legacy fwd transmission. I decided to try the 944 (or bus) flanges cut and welded to the subaru inner cv housing. It's been a little over a month since I finished this and it hasn't failed me yet and I have been doing some real hard 1st and 2nd gear launches. I still have some tuning to do with MS II but the power is amazing.
My 2 cents

[speedster356]

Fun isn't it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) That's quite a high static comp your running. What's the engine specs? pistons/injectors/cams/turbo/boost levels etc? I had a great run with my FWD gearbox.
cheers from downunder

[jsteele22]

So I opened up the rear part my 1990 4WD tranny last night and looked around a little. I've got a question about how the 2WD conversion might affect oil handling. At the top of the section containing the center differential, there's a little plastic tray (kinda like a rain gutter) that catches oil slinging off the diff, and funnels it into the center of the main shaft. Here's a (crappy) photo :



This view is looking more or less downward into the tranny. The center diff has already been removed.

And here's where the oil goes. (I think that's the main shaft, right ?)



Anyway, my concern is that with the diff removed, no oil is gonna get slung up into the tray. So are we starving oil from the main shaft ? Anybody who has torn into a 2WD tranny : Is there some other way that oil gets fed into the center of the main shaft ?

[nsyr]

Fun isn't it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif) That's quite a high static comp your running. What's the engine specs? pistons/injectors/cams/turbo/boost levels etc? I had a great run with my FWD gearbox.
cheers from downunder

I am assuming that is the static compression. The engine is a stock jdm twin turbo converted to single turbo (td04). Right now I am only running 8 psi. I tried 15psi but the clutch slipped at boost (i think). either that or boost leak at the bov. the injectors are i believe 420cc. i am in the middle of replacing the water pump right now so no tuning till that is done.
What pressure plate are you using?

[Porcharu]

So I opened up the rear part my 1990 4WD tranny last night and looked around a little. I've got a question about how the 2WD conversion might affect oil handling. At the top of the section containing the center differential, there's a little plastic tray (kinda like a rain gutter) that catches oil slinging off the diff, and funnels it into the center of the main shaft. Here's a (crappy) photo :



This view is looking more or less downward into the tranny. The center diff has already been removed.

And here's where the oil goes. (I think that's the main shaft, right ?)



Anyway, my concern is that with the diff removed, no oil is gonna get slung up into the tray. So are we starving oil from the main shaft ? Anybody who has torn into a 2WD tranny : Is there some other way that oil gets fed into the center of the main shaft ?

I don't think it really matters. With the FWD kit installed the shaft turns the same speed as the gears (not always true with the center diff in place.) My transmission doesn't have the cover like yours.

[banksyinoz]

great work guys is good to see that this conversion is taking off so well in the states but i suppose yhat it was only a matter of time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

[speedster356]

Heres a couple of shots of my new trans, it's an 2000 STI AWD gearset and LSD (ex Bathurst 24hr race spare Subaru box) in a 2000 non turbo AWD housing with Saka adaptor and modded FWD rear housing. I've machined a spare FWD end housing so there is clearance around the extended length of the pinion shaft. Then weld in filler plates. I did this so I didn't have to change my existing gearbox mount, cable clutch, shifter and also means I have a spare FWD box that will drop straight in.

[guiltless]

The AWD box with the FWD tail is an awesome idea. What mods did you have to do to the tail to get it to fit properly? Other than the fil plates. Or does it just bolt right on?

[speedster356]

Just bolts right up after clearancing the rear for the long pinion shaft.

[Porcharu]

Cool! I knew it would work. Glad to see it done.
I have made a tiny bit of progress on my swap. This whole dad thing takes alot more time than I thought it would.

[speedster356]

Yes, thanks Steve for the idea. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Porcharu]

Time to wake this thread from the dead. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I have found a shop that is equiped to make some nice flanges. I am sending my prototype to them as an example and hope to have a quote soon (a pair of flanges too.)

I have been spending my spare time fixing up a nice (cosmetically) four door Volvo for a DD/kid hauler. Mueller came over and ripped out the interior and power steering of my old beater Volvo that was sold to the smog Nazi’s last weekend. Mike's enthusiasm is contagious and gave me a needed kick in pants to get stuff done. I have pretty much performed a “tub swap” on my Volvo’s. The POS that went to the crusher looked like it had been sitting in a pick-n-pull for about a year.

Steve

[Porcharu]

Just a bump to get this thread back on the front page. I have been going back and forth with details on the flanges with the shop engineer. The flanges will be good for 500HP! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rocking nana.gif)
Maybe we really can break a Suby tranny in a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)
- good thing they are relatively cheap and upgrade parts are available.

Still working on Volvo's - getting sick of it. At least the car is REALLY clean.

[sakitume]

Hello all. This is my first posting here at 914world. I've just read all 20 pages of this thread. Phew. My brain hurts. Thanks to everyone for their informative contributions. You guys are awesome!!!

I've just acquired a 914 and I am very interested in the ideas posted here. I love (good) swaps, you can't beat the increased power, reliability and cost factor of a good swap.

Kennedy makes awesome transaxle adapters. I've used one on a 914 with turbo Ford 2.8v6 (years ago) and on my Chevy 2.8v6 powered Westy camper (still have it). But the idea of not having to use the adapter components and just using cheap, readily obtainable, relatively new Subarau engine AND transmission combinations...then simply swapping the COMBINED unit into a Porsche 914 seems just so nice...so simple.

Anyways,

1) Porcharu, any idea on when these might become available. Inquiring minds want to know.

2) nsyr, your conversion is awesome. I've searched this site and have found hardly any mention or discussion of what you've accomplished. Are you the first person to have successfully completed a Subaru engine AND Subaru transmission swap into a 914? BTW, I like your welded inner cv joint solution. I might do something similar if I ever do this conversion and Porcharu's flanges aren't yet available.

3) Is the Australian adapter (for the AWD trans) still readiily available? If not, it seems that FWD (90-95 Legacy) transmissions are still easily obtainable...at least here in Southern California.

4) The EG33 engine seems to be readily available and cheap $600 to $800. In fact I'm finding them to be a bit cheaper than the EJ25. Do (or could) the same transmissions (that have been discussed) also mate to the EG33? Would an EG33 and matching transmission fit in a 914?

5) Lastly, I've read several descriptions (on other sites) that the axles (with CV joints) don't need to be exactly in line. IOW its perfectly fine to move the transmission forwards, rearwards, upwards..or whatever, as needed. WITHIN reason of course. This should allow you more leeway on finding the ideal position for the engine/transmission. If you're not going to use a mid mounted radiator then it seems like it would be a good idea to move the engine/transmission forwards...better polar moment of inertia?

Cheers,
Donovan

[toon1]

goo to see this thred come back to life. I am waching closely, I want to do one of these in the future.


Has anyone adressed the shifting? cables? 914 adaption?

Keith

[Chuck]

I would love an update on the status of this as well. PM sent to Porcharu.

I thought the consensus was that a radiator in the engine bay did not sufficiently cool the motor; especially turbocharged motors. I also thought that moving the motor and transaxle slightly forward and placing the radiator in front ala the Renegade kit actually improved the balance of the car.