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> OT: Any heating and A/C guys here?, I want a new heating system for my house
lotus_65
post Nov 20 2005, 09:43 AM
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QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Nov 20 2005, 10:11 AM)
The infloor can be stapled up to the wood sub floor from the basement.

this is correct, but because the wood is considered an insulator, it becomes far less efficient. so if you have the opportunity to lay it on top of the subfloor and carpet/tile over it would be much better.

a combination system could be great also, especially if you have a source for some affordable in-floor products. keep the baseboard heat and add a propane boiler. use the in-floor for baseline comfort and spike with electricity when your family needs it. you can also keep track of raw costs (per btu) and lean on the cheaper source.

efficiency is partly in the eyes of the beholder too. i'd pay more per btu for in-floor because of the comfort factor. but that's just me.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 20 2005, 09:43 AM
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QUOTE (swl @ Nov 20 2005, 11:33 AM)
QUOTE (Mark Henry @ Nov 20 2005, 07:19 AM)
His minor paint job is going cost him $3000

Minor paint job??? Holy primer batman am I ever naive! Guess that's what happens when you don't get any bodywork done for 25 years.

The "good" paints and primers alone can be $800-1000. You can knock $200-300 off that with cheap crap paints.

To me "minor" is a well done job without tearing the whole car down.
He's getting a deal...I'd would have wanted $3500 at least, but I'm suppost to be getting a deal as well.

I'm at the point now if I'm not getting a fair days wage I don't want the job.
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swl
post Nov 20 2005, 09:50 AM
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Like I said - I'm totally naive. $1000 for materials just blows me away - I had no idea.

Skill and craftmanship should always be paid for. As should investment in tools and infrastructure.

Didn't know you were a painter.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 20 2005, 10:01 AM
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QUOTE (swl @ Nov 20 2005, 11:50 AM)
Didn't know you were a painter.

I'm not...the hired help is.

I won't touch the stuff...I've never met a bodyman that wasn't a loon...it's the fumes you know. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
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SpecialK
post Nov 20 2005, 10:18 AM
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QUOTE (guywan914 @ Nov 20 2005, 09:40 AM)
Just to add to Kevin's response: York, Heil, Carrier, Amana all make multi position 90+ furnaces even horizontal and you will want to install it as sealed combustion as he states.

Sure enough, they're making 90+ multiposition furnaces now (haven't seen one in person myself yet). I'm wondering how they got around gravity when it comes to the condensate drainage? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

And I definitely need to learn to type faster......15 responses jumped on before I could get my reply in, including the type of home you have.

Basement....definitely your standard "high-efficiency upflow furnace w/ductwork [perimeter supply/central return]" installation. I did work with a guy when I moved out to Missouri that swore by installing returns in each room (except the bathroom/kitchen). Beautifully even heat throughout the house, but the customers complained about it being noisy (blower). If he goes with installing the returns in a central hallway (normal), have him install grilles high, and low on the wall (same cavity). You can block off the lower grilles in the summer to aid in extracting the heat from the house, and block off the upper grilles in the winter to draw the cooler air near floor level.......make sense? Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...


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