Almost rust free, Just the tip of the iceburg Options

[Andyrew]

Need suggestions.
Our plan is to take a patch of metal from a spare door and mold it to fit the rusted areas. Some pictures we've looked at show that kind of repair and seems to work. Here is a pict of the problem area. Any kind suggestions are welcome. This is after removing the weak areas.

[tryan]

can you reform the lip for the seal on the engine shelf? does the restoration design panel have the lip?

[dan10101]

Does someone have a good picture of what it's supposed to look like? Preferably without the engine.

I found picture on the GRM magazine car. Looks like we'll have to pretend to do some metal bending.

I though of another question. Which would be best, an arc welder or a cheap mig welder? Do we run the risk of burning through the exsiting sheet metal?

[tryan]

thats purdy. mig it.

[tracks914]

I used 5 pieces (heavier guage steel than original) with many bends to accomplish this. It cannot be done in one piece without a tool and die operation. Use a mig machine for the welding. My original looked just like yours.

[tracks914]

Here it is before the paint when on.

[Andyrew]

Seanery, to answer your question, I think that that cut in the lip would be for the A/C thing.. And I plan to keep the A/C (its a daily driver in hot Cali..) so I'll just cut a large seal to make it nice and snug..

Tracks914, looks like you did a good job on that! How did you go about fixing it? Did you cut all the pannel out and put in new metal which you mate welded (for no knowlege of a better word) rather than sandwich weld it?

Any info would be helpful,

Thanks!
Andrew

[tracks914]

Here is picture of what I started with.
Very much like yours and others I am sure.

[tracks914]

I cut out all the bad rust after the picture was taken
sand blasted inside the frame and out
por 15 on the inside of the frame as much as I could get sprayed and brushed
then used 5 different pieces to reconstruct this corner of the frame
one piece at a time bend and formed then welded to the parent metal (overlapped to get to the strongest steel) and then welded to each new piece
a new engine shelf piece was made last and I bought a small piece of used rubber seal guide to weld onto the engine shelf (that would be too hard to make) and a new battery tray and support
then por 15 on the outside, primed and painted

[Curvie Roadlover]

Here is picture of what I started with.
Very much like yours and others I am sure.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

[Andyrew]

Tracks, thanks. those pics gave me hope!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Looks like that was a major project.. glad it went well.

Thanks for the pics.

Andrew

[tracks914]

It was no big dael just time and patience! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Dman]

You guys back east are nuts! But you do good work. I think you can buy that shelf peice and probably save a lot of work.

I thought my car was bad. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Andyrew]

Dman, nice job, Is that an oil cooler? a fresh air system? Looks like it could be very interesting..

[Aaron Cox]

if it an oil cooler- if you could get fresh cool air thru it you could vent it to the wheelwell right? slick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[tracks914]

I think you can buy that shelf peice and probably save a lot of work.

Ya could've bbought one but it was much more satisfying making it.
You should see the job I did for the motor mount. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

The oil cooler wont exit air there.. the tire throws all the air forward in the wheel well. He would have to run a pusher fan on it.. or a sucking fan to dump more heat into the engine compartment. I hope its a fresh air setup.


B