To Fuel Line or not ?, Replacing fuel lines? Options

[tat2dphreak]

QUOTE (yarin @ Feb 6 2006, 04:05 PM)

Is that 914club procedure for front a front mount fuel pump? I want to change my fuel lines as well. I was going to follow the Pelican fuel line replacement how to. Any objections to that?

you have my permission, but it takes a 65% approval

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

[dangrouche]

I just wanna know; what size tubing in stainless is the smallest I can get away with for feed and return lines? We have 7/16, 5/16, & 3/8 listed in all these replacment instructions. I have stock location for fuel pump my '74 2.0.

Does FLAPS sell the stainless tubing or do I need to go to a 18wheeler repair shop for tubing?

[tat2dphreak]

I got mine from summit... good price, good quality... I went with aluminum instead of SS though

[yarin]

I followed pelican and bought 5/16 and 3/8 mild steel brake line from my FLAPS (i feel like such a geek using this for the first time). 60" and 40" each. Instead of using a 90deg fitting i'm going to see if the 60" line is long enough to put a 90deg bend in it. Then go with a compression fitting coupler to the 40" line.

I pulled the tank and yanked the old fuel pump and filter. It was definitely time to replace everything.

Haven't pulled the old lines out of the tunnel yet, that's next. I'm going to try it with the engine in. Wish me luck!

[mcbain77]

Go forward and succeed yarin!!! Iwas thinking . . . if your shifter assembly is out and the shift rod is removed, do you think you could use the hole where the rod goes through the firewall to feed the lines through the center tunnel. I was thinking this might be a possibility without removing the engine.

I am slated to do this very thing next weekend so good luck and report back. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[yarin]

QUOTE (mcbain77 @ Feb 17 2006, 08:58 AM)

Go forward and succeed yarin!!! Iwas thinking . . . if your shifter assembly is out and the shift rod is removed, do you think you could use the hole where the rod goes through the firewall to feed the lines through the center tunnel. I was thinking this might be a possibility without removing the engine. I am slated to do this very thing next weekend so good luck and report back. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

My shift rod is still in, but that can be easily removed. I don't see a need to though.

My plan is as follows:

-Unclip the metal tabs holding the fuel lines in the tunnel.
-Push a solid wire through the length of both lines. Tie off at fuel tank side.
-Pull out stock lines.
-Tie wire to new lines.
-Pull through.

I think my hands are small enough to get into the front access panel at the front of the footwell and bend the lines there if needed. I've never done this before, but I will be sure to post results and pics when complete. It's too cold to work in the garage now, hopefully next week.

[Cire]

I am running -6 SS braided line.
I used the old line as a fish tape.

What, did it take about 1/2 hour?
Single line for Webers.


KT

I know this is an old thread but I figured what the heck. = )

Trekkor, do you happen to have pictures of your stainless steel line through the tunnel? did you do AN fittings on each end? How do you like it? Any issues? Anything you would do different?

Thanks for anything you can tell me on this one. = )

Eric

[Mike Bellis]

My mechanic is suggesing to replace with copper covered at contact points with rubber hose. Says they do it all the time on VWs with no problem.

Any comments?

Be very ccareful with copper. They can tend to break with too much vibration. Copper also cunducts heat very well and can heat up the fuel.

I run two 3/8 Aluminum lines in the stock location with -6AN fittings all around. Aluminum lines are the favored replacement in the Muscle Car world. I have put these on many cars and have never had a problem. They can also be hand formed without kinking or you can use a tubing bender with great results. I've also clamped 3/8 hose right over the aluminum lines (slide it on and clamp) without any leaks. Even with a 50psi FI set up.

[ClayPerrine]

The quoted procedure at the beginning of the thread was written before Chris Foley put out his fuel line kit. I have installed his kits multiple times, and always with great success. They can be installed in a weekend, they are not expensive, and they are worth the effort just for the piece of mind.

[SirAndy]

The quoted procedure at the beginning of the thread was written before Chris Foley put out his fuel line kit. I have installed his kits multiple times, and always with great success. They can be installed in a weekend, they are not expensive, and they are worth the effort just for the piece of mind.

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Old thread with old info, some of which has now been obsolete for years ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[iamchappy]

The old clear ones hold up better than the later black plastic ones, i had the black plastic ones in a 76 crack and leak from inside the tunnel, flooded out the passenger side floor and melted all of the tar. Dealer replaced the lines because at that time it was a factory recall replacement.

Replace with the SS and never think about it ever again.

[Cheapsnake]

Another caution about copper. It work hardens with vibration and is subject to cracking. That's why you see it all over in houses (they don't vibrate) and seldom in vehicles.

[ME733]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ...and I say by all means take every shortcut possable. Do not replace those fuel lines, after all they are ONLY (40) FORTY +/- years old, and should be good indefinately. You will have many years, after the fire that turns your car into rubble, to congratulate yourself on the time and effort you saved by avoiding this minor project.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) murray