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> Second drive (trouble), I have 40 miles to go..
redshift
post Sep 16 2003, 06:51 AM
Post #21


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Hey Geoff, MPS is the right one, and it's been -opened-..

(all over the phone)

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Bleyseng
post Sep 16 2003, 09:19 AM
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Baaad sign if its been opened. Test it will a vacuum tester to see if its toast first.
The other bad sign is a drilled machine plug so some idiot could try to adjust it.
Kevin, if you didn't sync the carbs or had two different sized carbs, how well would it run?

The biggest problems with Djet are these:
1. Mis-matched parts: The "mechanic" just went thru a box of parts and grabed the first ones he could find when he installed the FI.
2. Vacuum leaks- Due to old hoses, seals, or poor assembly the engine is running lean.
3. Mechanic MPS adjustment- Due to the above problems, the mechanic then drills out the machined plug and adjusts the MPS by ear. A "trick" he learned off a matchbook cover.

Once you set up Djet, its like any other FI. Just forget about it and drive!

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mike_the_man
post Sep 16 2003, 09:37 AM
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Geoff,

I adjusted both of my MPS's and I didn't have any trouble getting the plug out. Both of them were still sealed from the factory, but it only took me about 15-20 minutes to get each plug out. Used a heat gun and some small screw drivers to scrape the glue out. It was a learning experience, but I think I got them both adjusted properly.
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porsche735
post Sep 16 2003, 09:49 AM
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There are many things that can effect teh engine in the way it has been described. Yes, the MPS is one item. However, what about overall fuel pressure? What about an open or high resistance in the head temp sensor wire/connection. Don't get stuck on this MPS thing..... Check everything.

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Bleyseng
post Sep 16 2003, 09:51 AM
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If you used Brad Anders methods with a Wavetek or went to a dyno shop and set them to set the A/F then you know its right. Sure you can adjust an MPS by the seat of your pants but all of the units I have checked were off and set too lean at partload. Also the WOT is hard to set without a Wavetek and the WOT stop screw is impossible to set with electronic means.

The guess and by gosh method is fine getting it running. Same thing with carbs, go to a dyno shop and set the A/F mix there so you don't burn it up. (See Zeke's posts on PP)

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Bleyseng
post Sep 16 2003, 09:56 AM
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A shorted or dead CHT results in a rich mix when starting up and running like a pig. If it starts up fine and gas isn't pouring out of the exhaust, rich running mixture is usually caused by the MPS. The MPS controls the running fuel mixture and you have a unit thats been played with.
Sure, someone could have cranked the fuel pressure way up but thats very usual.

Geoff
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redshift
post Sep 16 2003, 02:03 PM
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MPS checked out fine, I gave my mechanic your links.

My car won't be done today.

CRAP



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redshift
post Sep 16 2003, 02:40 PM
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The valves were tight, way tight, real tight, super tight.

I can't wait to get this badboy seasoned.


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post Sep 16 2003, 04:24 PM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Sep 15 2003, 11:31 PM)
Test with one of these.

Where can I borrow a tester like this, or would most automotive shops have something like this?
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Bleyseng
post Sep 16 2003, 04:29 PM
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Almost any auto mechanic will have a simple vacuum tester.

Geoff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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