 Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings, The Tool is worth every penny!!!! |
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| Eric_Shea |
 Jun 23 2006, 10:16 PM
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#21
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PMB Performance  Group: Admin Posts: 19,279 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains   |
On or off the car?
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| mskala |
Jun 23 2006, 10:47 PM
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#22
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None 
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Arms are on the car.
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| Eric_Shea |
Jun 24 2006, 07:14 AM
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#23
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,279 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Mark,
If it's stuck, I'd yank it. I'm sure others will weigh in here but, I just yank them. You're only (3) 17mm's, (1) 22mm and (1) 27mm (I think... funky shock nut?) away from having it in a position where you can put some proper pressure on it to get it out. I position the nose (where the shock mounts) on my press bench (near the floor so the arm rests fairly level) and use an old 911 t-bar and a BFH to hammer them out. I have run into a couple that are a bear to get even doing that way but most pop out in a couple of taps. |
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| mskala |
Jun 24 2006, 11:27 AM
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#24
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None
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Also on the early cars at least, the brake line has to be disconnected.
Still, I realized there was no other way, and on the floor Mr. Sledge had no issues. Really strange thing, the bearing stayed in one piece while hammering out the hub. Then with the tool, everything else came apart and went together like butta (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Still have to put the arm back, brakes and bleed, realign toe. Thanks, |
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