/6 valve cover leak......still Options

[Dr Evil]

I was noticing that some people were referring to red silicon gaskets. I have green ones that are basically paper gaskets that are impregnated with silicon. Would these not act similarly to regular paper gaskets?

[Root_Werks]

I would recomend using the thicker graphite set. Most suppliers stock them as part package PK02. The thicker gaskets help to take up imperfections in the sealing surfaces. Plus they are way cheaper. They have been able to seal up even some pretty warped covers that people didn't have the $$$ to replace.

[iamchappy]

I really like the red silicone ones, cared for they will last and can be used over and over.

[Dr Evil]

Too late for other gaskets. I have 6 of the lowers...I bought 6 before I found out you could reuse them.

For the uppers I am using graphite.

And now, into the garage with me.............

[Dr Evil]

Well the jury is in and the cover was not warped. I checked it correctly on all axis and it was not warped. There was a bit of material missing where the corrosion was, but no warping. I wonder if the missing material could have caused the leaking.....like I was thinking? Ya, it is for certain. I am now gonna have to wait for the new ones. They may be here tomarrow.

[Thorshammer]

STOP THE INSANITY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The simple repair is this:

The mag covers you have are probably pitted on the sealing surface, most are. Although this isn't "factory" get some new graphite gaskets, go to the local Honda motorcycle shop and buy some "honda bond" not the ht. After cleaning the valve covers with brake cleaner, and then drying them, apply some Honda bond, and then apply the gasket and torque to the head using new aluminum washers and nylok nuts. This WILL fix the problem, if the surface is what is leaking. Remember magnesium IS porous, and some covers are worse than others. After installation, wipe the cover edge down to remove any excess. Hondabond seals motorcycle magnesium and aluminum parts together for years, it should be in your toolbox.

If a leak persists, and you are not sure where it is coming from, apply some aerosol foot powder to the suspected area, after cleaning it and drying the area.

Run the engine and the leak will show it's ugly head in the form of a brown stain, you know what a brown stain is, yes it's shite. This is where the leak truly is.

Also don't forget the engine crankcase breather. It must be unobstructed and properly routed. Make sure you check it when the engine is warm, and the rubber is pliable.

If none of this fixes your problem, you may want to look a little deeper, I would start with a compression test and a leakdown. Just to make sure the working chambers are in good "working order".


Good Luck!


Erik Madsen

[Gint]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) AKA... "shite stain".

[Dr Evil]

Well, the covers showed up today and I will be modding them and putting them on. If all goes correctly I will be drivable (and my garage floor will be saved). I bet there is gonna have to be a lot of cutting on the ribbs.

There is no way that a sealant was gonna be a reliable fix for my problem. There was too much material missing from the cover surface in one area. I did try some very good sealant origianlly and it did not work. ( I do know of yamabond, honda bond, locktites, etc. )

[Dr Evil]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) <-- you see this? Its a smile. That is because my car is running and not pissing oil everywhere. Actually, it is as dry as a bone under there now. I got the turbo covers this am at 8:30 and promptly commenced to fitting them. I am very happy with the results (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) <-- see, there it is again.

Now, I need to time it and drive it around the complex.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) <-- all feels right.

[Allan]

Way to stick to it Mike.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)