My SDS install, photos and comentary Options

[ottox914]

I've taken the plunge, sent $$$ to Mark, and ordered SDS for my 914. I expect with mail delays to the great white north, for delivery to be 3-4 weeks out, but thats O.K. I'll be updating this thread with photos and comentary about the install. Here's the starters-

Motor is a mostly stock 2.0, euro pistons and cyls, and a little head shaving to up the c/r. Motor was built by Brad Mayeur about 50K ago. Stock cam, valves. Now for the good stuff. I purchased from Jake some TWM ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners. The car was running a Kerry Hunter exhaust and super trapp exhaust.

The SDS system will be a fuel and ignition/coil pac system, so I'll be dropping the motor to more easily axcess the front for the hall sensor install. Along the way I'll be replacing the engine shelf to engine tin rubber seals, and ordering/installing some of Chris Foley's replacement fuel lines.

Last night I prepped the motor for the drop, and found some additional things to fix. Theres a big suprize. NOT. While the firewall and shift rod guide bushings were fine, no more than 1/16 play between the rod and bushing, the ball cup bushing was, well, GONE! There was the bottom half of the bushing still in the cup, but where the ball on the shift linkage would contact the nylon, it was worn/broken off into pieces. No wonder it ground a little... and there was a torn motor mount, and I had a couple head studs stick in their EZ outs, and the whole mess backed out of the head, rather than the nut coming off the stud, or the stud coming out of the EZ out...

I won't bore you with photos of the drop, we've all done that a hundred times, but here are some photos of the mock up of the ITB's and a spair coil pac floating around the shop, done to get more accurate measurements for the harness to be constructed/supplied by SDS. The wires for the injectors and sensors will run across the back trunk firewall, under all the new fuel lines, and attach to the back firewall with some neat "tree" style zip ties I found, where the plastic "tree" will go into 2 holes in the back trunk firewall, and tuck the wires up and out of the way.

For the crank sensor, I've got a pully coming from a 914 A/C car to test fit. I may use that, or I may have a machinist friend make an aluminum disc to mount the trigger mags to. I'll have to get it appart and see what it all looks like, and what will work best.

Now, some photos-

[ottox914]

ITB left

[ottox914]

ITB right

[Mark Henry]

I forget how long my injector harness is, but the plug in is dead center so I'll measure it and we will make it a hair longer. Then it should go agaist the back firewall nicely.

Also see if you can find a crappy old ashtray and copy my mount for the programmer, it works perfectly.

Here's the link to my install so you have it handy

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=5396

[Mark Henry]

BTW your aircleaner is crushing because you're cranking it down to tight, use a bit of the weak loctite and leave them a little loose.

[ottox914]

Good guess on the aircleaner, but in reality, it was due to un-supervised nephews loose in the garage... generally, you'll NOT find toys on the workbench... thanks guys. I'll be giving you a call tonight to discuss the harness lengths and some other details. Any sign of the $$$ yet?

[Gint]

I purchased from Jake some TWM ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners.

ooohhhhhwwww!!!!!!!!!

What did the "TWM ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners" $et you back? And for that matter, the SDS setup from Mark?

Looking forward to the pics of the install. I may be heading that direction myself before too long.

[blitZ]

Do the ITBs include new injectors or do you use your stock injectors? Also, will the ITBs you purchased work as well if you increase your displacement? Looks like a nice setup, anxious to see the results.

[Mark Henry]

I'd make the injector harness around 43" to 44" if you want it to run along the rear firewall. This is to the longest wire, 3" spacing.

You will also need:

1- 1 to 5 amp in-line fuse to the ECU
1- 10 amp in-line fuse to the injector harness.
2- 15 amp in-line fuses to the pump and coil pack

I also have a 10 amp in-line fuse to the pump relay, but I don't think it's really needed.

He's using 30cc/min Ford redtops (bosch) I believe for injectors.

[Aaron Cox]

why'd you choose TWM over Jenveys?

just curious if quality on one is better...

[ottox914]

Not to be all mystical about the whole thing, but you can talk to Jake and Mark and make your best deal...

The injectors are indeed the 30# ford "redtops". I sourced them from EBAY, from a seller of injectors. They are a flow matched set. Injectors were availible from Jake, but not part of the "package" of stuff I ordered from him. And no, I don't recall the cost. Do any of us really keep track of that anymore?

I had Jake size the ITB's for up to a 2316. Nice number, huh? They will probably be a little large for the 2.0, but the long term plans are: Get the SDS up and running. Learn the tuneing. Don't blow up the motor. (notice how the ITB's at the sides, the coil pack in the front, and all the fuel system/injection harness lines across the back firewall leave a really big open area in the middle of the engine bay?) Add a turbo (and I know, I KNOW, you can't turbo a 914) and subaru WRX intercooler in a season or 2, then see of the motor blows. The WRX intercooler has one inlet and 2 outlets for the charge air path. Should work out pretty well with ITB's, and give some snappy throttle response. If it blows up, maybe a 2316? If not, it'll be a pretty cool little auto x car. And yes, for you SCCA types, I also know a turbo'd 914 will be underweight for SM2, and way under prepared for XP, but I'm building the car for me, not the SCCA, and if I want a world beater for SCCA, I'll drive my friends car, which I'm helping him develop. A fat performance 3.0 4 cyl, 1675# or so WITH driver... attaching a photo below of me driving HIS car-

[ottox914]

why'd you choose TWM over Jenveys?

just curious if quality on one is better...

1) $$$$ less
2) Its what Jake was selling that day, he beat any other $$$ on the TWM's I could find, and its good to support those who support us.
3) I liked the way the injector supply rail was set up to connect to the TB.

[Mark Henry]

David I got your PM and I'll look it over tonight. The cheque is still in the mail, I'll let you know as soon as it gets here, mid-week most likely.

If you don't have an old ashtray for your programmer mount, I think I have one.

[Mark Henry]

Daaaaavid! I have mail!

Figure out the final on your harness..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)

[ottox914]

Email sent.

[Gint]

Not to be all mystical about the whole thing, but you can talk to Jake and Mark and make your best deal...

Oy...

Please, then just tell me how much you think this might cost you to get the whole mess installed and the 914 running. Please, I don't want to know anyone's pricing secrets or anything so dastardly. I just want to know how long I have to save my duckets to do something like that.

[ottox914]

I don't know what the exchange rate is dollars to duckets these days, but as best as I can recall, here's the damage: bought the ITB's, manifolds, air cleaners from Jake around a year ago with a small windfall from work that Mrs Me did not get her hands on. I think the total was around $750. Injectors off EvilBay were maybe $100. Add another $100 or so for the linkage from some place in CA, I could dig it up if anyone wants it once I get the install photos up and you all can see it. SDS can run you anywhere from around $900 shipped for fuel only, to maybe $1400 shipped for the crank fire/coil pac version. Add more for optional relays. Add more for a wideband to better tune it and not blow up your motor. My SDS bill was around $1700. Add lots of labor and beer to help pay off your fabricator, and more $$$ for all the other little "while I'm in here" things to fix, new plugs and wires, fuel pressure regulator, fuel lines, clamps, filter, dyno time after you've got it 80-90% tuned, etc, and theres your total.

So in round numbers, not including pending fabrication and the "while I'm in there" stuff, I'm at $2650. I expect when it hits the streets the total will be closer to 3k. Will it be worth it? We'll see, looking at it this way its awful expensive HP at this point. But. If a 2316 comes to pass, all I need is the long block. If a turbo happens, I mount it on the end of the kerry hunter collector, source a scavange pump for the oil return, add an EvilBay subi intercooler, and for maybe $500 more I've got the turbo thing going. Safely, as the tuneing will be totally adjustable with great MFG support. $2650 is not the end of this project, just the beginning.

[Gint]

Thank You!

[Mark Henry]

System ordered

[ottox914]

Weekend update: Slow progress with relatives in town. Got my brother in law to help with the engine drop, so thats done. Discovered BOTH motor mounts were sheared. And who says 914's got no power? Started taking tin off the engine to scope out the hall sensor mounting options. Got the new engine room rubber seals in. Was thinking of trying this with the motor in, but since it had to come out, no better time than now. I would think it COULD be done with the engine in, but I wouldn' t want to be the guy to try... Ordered some of C.F.'s fuel lines, he's a week or 2 out on those.

If someone can school me on how to load multiple photos on one posting, please do.

Now, some photos.