Show me your front oil cooler..., ...running through the fog light grills Options

[brant]

I'm going to have to look further
I don't remember the part numbers and the ones listed don't look quite right

http://www.fluidyne.com/oil-cooler_high-pe...ro-58mm-ot.html

I think the deraile will be less efficient
but still likely good enough
It would be worth a try

[stugray]

So I finally got the coolers for the fog light bucket upgrade.

They are one of the smallest Setrab coolers you can get.
8.25" wide X 5.75" tall
When I first pulled them out of the box, I was disappointed by how small they are, but they are the largest that can fit under the headlight buckets.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1377216116.1.jpg)

Those are 12AN fittings.

Here is a pic of one in the hole from the top:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1377216116.2.jpg)

And from the front:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1377216116.3.jpg)

I will do custom contoured intakes from the square holes in the bumper.
Venting will be out the rear into the wheel well.

They seem too small at first, but I did some quick calcs:
Stock oil cooler = 15.75 square inches of cooler cross section
2X setrab coolers = 27.5 +27.5 = 55 square inches of cross section

I will also be leaving the stock cooler in for now so by adding these coolers I will have a total of 70.75 square inches.
So I will be increasing cross section by a factor of 4.5!

I understand that the fronts wont help at all unless the car is moving unless I incorporate fans. I will consider that.

I considered smaller hose, but in the overall plan the difference between 10AN & 12AN is really not that much of a percentage of the whole project (even considering the fittings).
I'll run the 12AN Nylon braided hose all the way front to back in the passenger side heater duct.

Stu

[stugray]

I changed my mind on the orientation.
I rotated them so the fittings point horizontally (at each other).

Then I made bullet-proof brackets to hold them at a slight rear-tilt angle.
I made frames out of 1/2"X1/2" aluminum angle.
One frame attaches to the cooler, the other screws into the bumper hole.

Now I am fabbing the vents that will connect the two frames.

Driver side front:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1379129795.1.jpg)

Drivers side top:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1379129795.2.jpg)

Pass side front:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1379129795.3.jpg)

Pass side top:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1379129795.4.jpg)

The vents will get built with balsa wood and then covered in carbon fiber for a custom fit.
I am taking a bit of a gamble making the vents with a temporary bumper.
The "new" FG bumper better have the same holes.....

[boxsterfan]

I just want to say that this is a fantastic thread. Someday when I do a complete teardown on my car, I would love to put oil coolers behind the fog light grills.

[stugray]

Here are some pics of my final installation.

First is where the hoses come up through the heater tubes.
I made some custom grommets that you can install after the hoses are routed:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.2.jpg)

The single grommet install:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.3.jpg)

View of pass side:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.4.jpg)

View showing cooler under headlight bucket (headlights would still fit):
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.5.jpg)

Driver's side:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.6.jpg)

Overall install (you cant see the line that runs across in front of the fuel cell in this pic):
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.7.jpg)

Yes I chose to run them in series to guarantee equal flow.

I forgot to get pics of the exit hole. The coolers have ducts that exit through the wheel wells.

[stugray]

Here is a view of the fenderwell vents without the coolers.
From the front:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389741851.1.jpg)

From the wheel well:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389741851.2.jpg)

I put expanded metal on the inside and a flexible duct from the cooler.
I'll try to get pics of the final, but the wheel is on now.

[effutuo101]

nice work!

[boxsterfan]

I think it looks great. How does it perform in its cooling job?

[stugray]

I think it looks great. How does it perform in its cooling job?

I dont know yet.
The engine is not even broken in yet, so I have not hooked the cooling loop in yet (not enough break in oil).

When I change out the breakin oil, I will flush the cooling system first and then plug it in.
Can anyone suggest a fluid to use to flush the lines? a couple of quarts of the cheapest oil I can find? I have heard of using kerosene, but I dont know about that.

[Randal]

Here are some pics of my final installation.

First is where the hoses come up through the heater tubes.
I made some custom grommets that you can install after the hoses are routed:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.2.jpg)

The single grommet install:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.3.jpg)

View of pass side:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661343.4.jpg)

View showing cooler under headlight bucket (headlights would still fit):
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.5.jpg)

Driver's side:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.6.jpg)

Overall install (you cant see the line that runs across in front of the fuel cell in this pic):
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i366.photobucket.com-10819-1389661344.7.jpg)

Yes I chose to run them in series to guarantee equal flow.

I forgot to get pics of the exit hole. The coolers have ducts that exit through the wheel wells.

FYI the braided black line will fail if it gets nicked and starts to unravel. If you really want to use it then put a big oil pressure light on your dash so you don't lose the engine when it does fail. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[stugray]

FYI the braided black line will fail if it gets nicked and starts to unravel.

That braided black line has layers:
Outside - Aramid fiber (cannot cut it with scissors)
2nd layer - Rubber
3rd layer - Stainless steel braid
Inside - rubber

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.jegs.com-10819-1389809411.1.jpg)

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Pro...110942/10002/-1

I takes extreme effort to cut that stuff with a cutoff wheel or a bandsaw. So essentially it is steel braided line with 2 extra external layers.

[JmuRiz]

Very cool, I'll be interested to hear if you headlights are still able to work and how well it cools...when you road test it.

[stugray]

I'll be interested to hear if you headlights are still able to work and how well it cools...

I never intend to put headlights back into it, but the entire headlight bucket is still there. The coolers do not intrude on that space.
I had to cut the bottom of the buckets out to install the coolers, but that's it. And of course rain would not have a dedicated drain like stock.
As for cooling, The stock cooler has ~16 in^2 of cooling cross section.
By adding these two coolers, I now have ~71 in^2 of cooling crosssection.
So I have 4.4X as much cooling as stock (as long as I leave the stock cooler in place).

[boxsterfan]

According to previous posts in this thread and his measurements, the headlights should work. I don't see anything blocking their operation (including if the headlight surrounds were attached).

[Randal]

FYI the braided black line will fail if it gets nicked and starts to unravel.

That braided black line has layers:
Outside - Aramid fiber (cannot cut it with scissors)
2nd layer - Rubber
3rd layer - Stainless steel braid
Inside - rubber

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.jegs.com-10819-1389809411.1.jpg)

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Pro...110942/10002/-1

I takes extreme effort to cut that stuff with a cutoff wheel or a bandsaw. So essentially it is steel braided line with 2 extra external layers.

If your running a race car the hoses can scrape something or be nicked and once the nylon is cut it unravels.

With an oil line (under pressure) the hose will burst once the nylon has unraveled. I had it happen and lost a couple of quarts before we caught the failure. And this was at an autox, not a track event where the chance of a nick starting the nylon to unravel is higher - and also catching the failure.

And mine burst right where it made a turn for my oil cooler up front, so a bunch of oil had to spray out before it leaked out on the ground.

In any event it's your choice, but still suggest putting a big low oil pressure light on the dash, to act as a warning.

[stugray]

In any event it's your choice, but still suggest putting a big low oil pressure light on the dash, to act as a warning.

I have a big red light on the dash (not as big as it could be).

However I am trying to understand what you are suggesting for the hose.
Are you suggesting that I replace the 4 layer SS braided hose with 2 layer SS braided hose?

As far as I can tell this is the best hose money can buy (at $9 a foot) unless I go to rigid lines.

[Randal]

In any event it's your choice, but still suggest putting a big low oil pressure light on the dash, to act as a warning.

I have a big red light on the dash (not as big as it could be).

However I am trying to understand what you are suggesting for the hose.
Are you suggesting that I replace the 4 layer SS braided hose with 2 layer SS braided hose?

As far as I can tell this is the best hose money can buy (at $9 a foot) unless I go to rigid lines.

Sorry, guess I wasn't clear.

When we originally put the front cooler in my car in conjunction with the big engine I insisted, over the complaints of my engine builder, to put in the lighter black nylon braided line. I wanted to save weight.

After the failure I took out all the black nylon line out and installed the SS braided line which I got from Summit or Earl's distributor in LA. I still have some of the SS braided line and will look for a part number.

Seems to me it was $10.00 a foot.

[stugray]

But you realize that this hose HAS a braided SS layer inside it?

So the way I see it is that this is Braided SS hose with 2 extra layers to protect it.
Still confused.

[Randal]

But you realize that this hose HAS a braided SS layer inside it?

So the way I see it is that this is Braided SS hose with 2 extra layers to protect it.
Still confused.

Think I also have some of the original black braided line and will check this for the under SS layer as you describe it.

[Mark Henry]

But you realize that this hose HAS a braided SS layer inside it?

So the way I see it is that this is Braided SS hose with 2 extra layers to protect it.
Still confused.

Think I also have some of the original black braided line and will check this for the under SS layer as you describe it.

He's using hydraulic oil/fluid lines, it's a lot heavier, thicker, expensive and harder to bend around corners.