Show me your front oil cooler..., ...running through the fog light grills Options

[GTeener]

Trekkor,

Why'd you mount yours at the back of the front trunk over the exit holes instead of close to the fresh air intake holes? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Aaron Cox]

Description of Rich Johnson´s car:

An Earls cooler is mounted under the rear trunk next to the starter. A custom bracket holds the cooler and the fan set (blows down through the cooler) about an inch off the bottom of the trunks floor for air flow to the two 12v commercial fans. Thanks to Wes at H&H Enterprises for this idea.

Hey, ya! That's what my coworker suggested! Thanks for the pix (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

sorry, i am anti enginebay/rear trunk cooler mount nazi.

look at that picture... where is it getting its circulating air from? oh, the hot air off the header? the air swimming around the hot tranny?

i would put it on the targa top (baja bug style LOL) before i lay it flat under a trunk...

What about a low profile fresh air scoop on the end of the rocker panels?

then the tube somehow needs to come in front of the wheel... miss a header.. miss the heads... keep it from melting... onto the rear trunk just to duct cooling air to a spot....

seems like trying really hard to bandaid a bad idea....

just my opinion.

up front gets clean easy airflow...... yes, it costs more upfront, but you wont have to do it twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

i reaally like your fog light grill idea.... it looks like there is room up there.. maybe like 2 7x6" coolers.. ductiong under the headlights....

[GTeener]

Description of Rich Johnson´s car:

An Earls cooler is mounted under the rear trunk next to the starter. A custom bracket holds the cooler and the fan set (blows down through the cooler) about an inch off the bottom of the trunks floor for air flow to the two 12v commercial fans. Thanks to Wes at H&H Enterprises for this idea.

Hey, ya! That's what my coworker suggested! Thanks for the pix (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

sorry, i am anti enginebay/rear trunk cooler mount nazi.

look at that picture... where is it getting its circulating air from? oh, the hot air off the header? the air swimming around the hot tranny?

i would put it on the targa top (baja bug style LOL) before i lay it flat under a trunk...

What about a low profile fresh air scoop on the end of the rocker panels?

then the tube somehow needs to come in front of the wheel... miss a header.. miss the heads... keep it from melting... onto the rear trunk just to duct cooling air to a spot....

seems like trying really hard to bandaid a bad idea....

just my opinion.

up front gets clean easy airflow...... yes, it costs more upfront, but you wont have to do it twice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

i reaally like your fog light grill idea.... it looks like there is room up there.. maybe like 2 7x6" coolers.. ductiong under the headlights....

OK, so back to the 2 coolers under the headlights idea...

More questions...

Where can I get good small coolers that will fit?
Will the chassis need to be cut to make the under headlights space work?
Will my headlights still be operational?
Where does the heat vent out to? Cut holes into the fender wells?

[Aaron Cox]

ill go take some headlight bucket pics for you.

we can then determine what you will need to do cooler wise and cutting wise.

basically, you need to cut a hole behind the cooler, and in front of it.
intake and exit

[GTeener]

ill go take some headlight bucket pics for you.

we can then determine what you will need to do cooler wise and cutting wise.

basically, you need to cut a hole behind the cooler, and in front of it.
intake and exit

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
The cuts won't compromise the structural integrity of the chassis will it?

[Aaron Cox]

ill go take some headlight bucket pics for you.

we can then determine what you will need to do cooler wise and cutting wise.

basically, you need to cut a hole behind the cooler, and in front of it.
intake and exit

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
The cuts won't compromise the structural integrity of the chassis will it?

im not a stuctural engineer LOL...

the coolest thing i saw with the v8 cars, was welding in a loose but thick gauge mesh... puts some strength back in.

but check this out.

[Aaron Cox]

looks like you have about 7"-8" from nose of car to front of fenderwell...

and, about 8" of width to work with under the headlight....

and the only thing you may have to do, is cut the rain funnel off the bottom of the headlight bucket.....

[McMark]

Mocal has a cooler that will fit under the headlight.

I measure 8" from the support with the two big holes in it out to the inner fender wall.
I measure about 5.5" from the floor to the bottom of the headlight bucket.
I measure about 3" between the wheel arch to the headlight drain.

You could keep the drain in place and put the cooler behind it.

Structure is no at issue there.

[GTeener]

Mocal has a cooler that will fit under the headlight.

I measure 8" from the support with the two big holes in it out to the inner fender wall.
I measure about 5.5" from the floor to the bottom of the headlight bucket.
I measure about 3" between the wheel arch to the headlight drain.

You could keep the drain in place and put the cooler behind it.

Structure is no at issue there.

Really (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Model number?

[McMark]

Mocal 115 in the 5.78" height would probably work. 5 1/8" wide cooler face and 2" deep.

[GTeener]

ill go take some headlight bucket pics for you.

we can then determine what you will need to do cooler wise and cutting wise.

basically, you need to cut a hole behind the cooler, and in front of it.
intake and exit

Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
The cuts won't compromise the structural integrity of the chassis will it?

im not a stuctural engineer LOL...

the coolest thing i saw with the v8 cars, was welding in a loose but thick gauge mesh... puts some strength back in.

but check this out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Thanks for the pix and specs.

[McMark]

It's not a bolt in, by any means, but the concept it sound. Run a pair of them, put a Y splitter in the oil supply line and run the coolers in parallel. The straight flow ducting and frontal access to air should make the cooler very efficient, even though it is quite small.

[Aaron Cox]

mark beat me to oil cooler size hunting...

i think you need the fittings on the SIDE tho.... (to get access to the plumbing....

so the height can now be 8" but the width can only be 5.5"

[Aaron Cox]

It's not a bolt in, by any means, but the concept it sound. Run a pair of them, put a Y splitter in the oil supply line and run the coolers in parallel. The straight flow ducting and frontal access to air should make the cooler very efficient, even though it is quite small.

why not run them one after another? i *think* they would cool the same either way tho LOL (cant think right now)

[McMark]

mark beat me to oil cooler size hunting...

i think you need the fittings on the SIDE tho.... (to get access to the plumbing....

so the height can now be 8" but the width can only be 5.5"

Welders my man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Port location is the least of my worries.

[McMark]

It's not a bolt in, by any means, but the concept it sound. Run a pair of them, put a Y splitter in the oil supply line and run the coolers in parallel. The straight flow ducting and frontal access to air should make the cooler very efficient, even though it is quite small.

why not run them one after another? i *think* they would cool the same either way tho LOL (cant think right now)

Hell no, it's all about Delta T. The 'hot' cooler will cool a lot, the 'cold' cooler will not cool much. Two 'hot' coolers will cool a lot more because the temp of the oil is much higher than the air temp and that difference in temp is what makes the cooler cool the oil.

[Aaron Cox]

mark beat me to oil cooler size hunting...

i think you need the fittings on the SIDE tho.... (to get access to the plumbing....

so the height can now be 8" but the width can only be 5.5"

Welders my man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Port location is the least of my worries.

hmm... my idea, is to take your idea, and rotate them 90 degrees toward the center of the car, so you have a straight shot at plumbing.

you a tig master?

i like what we got goin here....

[McMark]

I'm focusing on a straight shot without cutting much of the chassis. Welding 90 degree extensions on the ports to make them accessible is very very easy. Like don't even think about it easy.

[Aaron Cox]

or you can use 90* AN fittings...

smart.

i looked in pet for a front fender mock up pic.... none from the right angle....

looks like 2 openings, and a rain spout removal may be all that are required body cutting wise.... (per side)

[GTeener]

So Mark... If I give you $1K will you do a primo job for me so I can make it to the RRC event?

Series9 says: Use Fluidyne or Mocal oil coolers w/-12AN fittings. Aeroquip fittings and Aeroquip braided lines with a Mocal -12 thermostat. Set aside $1000 to do the job properly. Adding an external cooler on a /6 is something best left to a competent shop. Take the car to someone you trust.