Engine Bays, All years Options

[HaraldD]

Hello!
The sticker is original from the 70` :-)
It was on the Airfilter when i bought the Car. The Engine isn`t a Factory GT. The Porsche Dealer Max Moritz build it up to a 2,0 "S" with ALu/Nicasil Pistons and Cylinders, S Cams, Forged Rockers, S Crankshaft, Weber IDS and some other Goodies...all back 1970.
It have about 185 HP..... :-)
If you want more:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1106630

Harald (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)





Harold , the MM sticker is awesome, Is tha a factory GT engine also ?
[/quote]

[Pat Garvey]

Fun thread, but awfully light on originality! And not even one factory /6 engine bay... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Who's got the cleanest /6 out there? Would be nice to have some engine shots as a reference.

I agree!!

Calling James Smith.....show us the engine compartment of the Swissie. You won Parade twice, so show us the goods.
Pat

[Jasfsmith]

Fun thread, but awfully light on originality! And not even one factory /6 engine bay... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Who's got the cleanest /6 out there? Would be nice to have some engine shots as a reference.

I agree!!

Calling James Smith.....show us the engine compartment of the Swissie. You won Parade twice, so show us the goods.
Pat

I'll comply when I final learn how to take proper pictures of the engine compartment which hide all the grease and dirt...

(My past attempts at engine and interior compartment photos have failed miserably. Either took dark, or washed out from the flash. I'll give it another try. I can always edit the dirt out with photo shop.)

[tod914]

James just a suggestion, take the car outside. Turn the camera flash off, set to 200 or 400. Might be a touch dark, but if you want I can correct them if you like. Alittle work around you can try is, point the lens to a dark area in the bay. Then hold the shutter button 1/2 way to lock the exposure, then shift the lense to the area you want to shoot (while keeping the button 1/2 way down), then fully depress and take your your shot. Hopefully that will work for you.

[Pat Garvey]

Fun thread, but awfully light on originality! And not even one factory /6 engine bay... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Who's got the cleanest /6 out there? Would be nice to have some engine shots as a reference.

I agree!!

Calling James Smith.....show us the engine compartment of the Swissie. You won Parade twice, so show us the goods.
Pat

I'll comply when I final learn how to take proper pictures of the engine compartment which hide all the grease and dirt...

(My past attempts at engine and interior compartment photos have failed miserably. Either took dark, or washed out from the flash. I'll give it another try. I can always edit the dirt out with photo shop.)

And you dump on me for MY excuses........
Pat

[euro911]

Pat, did you ever have those paint stamps made up?

Is there a difference in the air filter top stamp from 70 ~ 7x?

I painted over the mostly-faded lettering on the air filter top when I 'spruced-up' some of the tin parts on my wife's 71 1.7L last year (mainly to keep the rust at bay). When it comes time for a total rebuild/restoration, I'd like to re-stamp the air cleaner and the left-side engine tin too.

Until that happens, this is pretty much how it will look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[Pat Garvey]

1. When I refinished my engine tin (many years ago!), I gave no regard to the white stampings on the drivers' side. I plan to have a paint stamp made when I can verify the correct number - 610, etc.
2. Same with the oil bath air cleaner - refinished it & destroyed the red pain stamping. Will have a paint stamp made for that too.
...

Pat

Pat, did you ever have those paint stamps made up?

Is there a difference in the air filter top stamp from 70 ~ 7x?

I painted over the mostly-faded lettering on the air filter top when I 'spruced-up' some of the tin parts on my wife's 71 1.7L last year (mainly to keep the rust at bay). When it comes time for a total rebuild/restoration, I'd like to re-stamp the air cleaner and the left-side engine tin too.

Until that happens, this is pretty much how it will look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

No, I still haven't done it yet, though I am working on the artwork for "610".

Fairly certain that the text on the oil bath aircleaners was constant through the, and until, the changeover to filters. One of these days.....
Pat

[70_914]

Can someone give me an awnser on this! Coil upside down good or bad??

porsche coil - good
msd coil - bad

Harold , the MM sticker is awesome, Is tha a factory GT engine also ?

Oil filled coil, any brand - upside down is bad
Epoxy coil, any brand - upside down is fine

Shake your coil and you will know if it is epoxy or oil filled.

[rick 918-S]

Is this correct mounting for the AAR?

[Pat Garvey]

Is this correct mounting for the AAR?

Yep

[Bleyseng]

Is this correct mounting for the AAR?

Considering its the Decel valve not the AAR valve its correct. The AAR valve mounts on the engine.
How you mount the MPS (nose forward or back) is dependent on the vents on it. Do not mount it with the vents facing up! They fill up with dirt, grime and water!

[rick 918-S]

[tumamilhem]

any tips on Engine bay cleaning? like to have it nicer in there.

mrhutrtlot.
Yes - two ways - and you'll hurtalot either way!

Method one - remove motor/trans. 2 hour cleanup from inside the bay (on jack stands). Do not use cleaning fluids that will render you duh or huh? Don't need them with contemporary chemicals, though I'd still wear a respirator. Really easy w/the motor out.

Method two - motor in. Lots more difficult, but can be done. Foremost, get a set of el-cheapo kneepads, and wear latex or rubber gloves. Why, becauseas you dig into the engine compartment you'll use your knees for bracing. Without the kneepads you'll make compression dents in the quarters. It's amazing what you can reach if you're not afraid of hurting the car, so dig in. First, remove everything removable (you didn't say what year your 914 was). Air filter, etc. Clean them separately. Then just tak some clean terry rags & start dgging for goo - you'll find plenty. Unless you're barely over 5 feet tall (like SOME people I know) you should be able to reach every cranny in there. After you've mopped up the really loose stuff, go back with another set of cloths lightly soaked in something like SimpleGreen or 409 (no solvents). Wipe until you come up with nothing. Take another fresh set of cloths (terry preferred) & do it again. I know it's simplistic sounding, but you need to reach into every fore/aft & side areas to do this - takes lots of rags & the wife will REALLY bitch when you throw them into the washer (trust me!). If you're forttunate, you'll have slim fingers to get under thigs like the induction tubes. If you're even MORE fortunate, you'll get your significant other involved to do this - they DO have very tiny fingers, that can get into places we gorillas cannot. Just be certain that the significant other realizes the daintiness of 914 bodywork - best to ask them to wear the kneepads & nothing else, so they don't hurt the bodywork. Worked ONCE for me - wish I'd taken pictures....or not.

Pardon my ignorance, Pat, but how about using Gunk (brand) engine degreaser and then Gunk engine detailer? Any harm there?

[Pat Garvey]

any tips on Engine bay cleaning? like to have it nicer in there.

mrhutrtlot.
Yes - two ways - and you'll hurtalot either way!

Method one - remove motor/trans. 2 hour cleanup from inside the bay (on jack stands). Do not use cleaning fluids that will render you duh or huh? Don't need them with contemporary chemicals, though I'd still wear a respirator. Really easy w/the motor out.

Method two - motor in. Lots more difficult, but can be done. Foremost, get a set of el-cheapo kneepads, and wear latex or rubber gloves. Why, becauseas you dig into the engine compartment you'll use your knees for bracing. Without the kneepads you'll make compression dents in the quarters. It's amazing what you can reach if you're not afraid of hurting the car, so dig in. First, remove everything removable (you didn't say what year your 914 was). Air filter, etc. Clean them separately. Then just tak some clean terry rags & start dgging for goo - you'll find plenty. Unless you're barely over 5 feet tall (like SOME people I know) you should be able to reach every cranny in there. After you've mopped up the really loose stuff, go back with another set of cloths lightly soaked in something like SimpleGreen or 409 (no solvents). Wipe until you come up with nothing. Take another fresh set of cloths (terry preferred) & do it again. I know it's simplistic sounding, but you need to reach into every fore/aft & side areas to do this - takes lots of rags & the wife will REALLY bitch when you throw them into the washer (trust me!). If you're forttunate, you'll have slim fingers to get under thigs like the induction tubes. If you're even MORE fortunate, you'll get your significant other involved to do this - they DO have very tiny fingers, that can get into places we gorillas cannot. Just be certain that the significant other realizes the daintiness of 914 bodywork - best to ask them to wear the kneepads & nothing else, so they don't hurt the bodywork. Worked ONCE for me - wish I'd taken pictures....or not.

Pardon my ignorance, Pat, but how about using Gunk (brand) engine degreaser and then Gunk engine detailer? Any harm there?

I have no experience with Gunk detailer, but will tell you that any product with solvents in it will wreak havoc on older/newer rubber parts...keep it away from these parts (they get more expensive to replace every year, if they are still available). i.e., never let petro solvents near any boots or seals. I still prefer Simple Green for these instances, though wear gloves.

Gunk, brake cleaner, etc. is fine for cleaning/detailing parts such as tranny/engine casings. Just be careful of overspray, since it may discolor painted and ruin rubber parts. Wear a mask too - that stuff (unprotected) could leave your lungs with problems down the road. Whatever you decide to use never, ever, ever use acetone (MEK - methyl ethyl ketone). It works better than anything else, but you may as well throw your lungs on the floor (even with a mask), and it is as explosive as can be. I know - been there.

[tumamilhem]

Thank you Pat for your advice and suggestions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[VG-914]

mrhutrtlot.
Method two - motor in.

Helps to remove rear trunk and engine covers too! Drop cardboard in the trunk and have a seat for your cleaning efforts! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[73-914]

Used to use MEK in fiberglass boat building, very NASTY stuff

[JawjaPorsche]

Red spark plug wires not original but I like how they bring color to the bay plus I like how they are not laying on the engine. Air intakes are a larger grey too.

[AHudson]

Currently have an empty engine bay, but the re-marriage has been announced!

[altitude411]

that looks damn nice... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)