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> Compression test values for a rebuilt TIV
jk76.914
post Aug 22 2006, 02:36 PM
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So happens I just checked the compression on my '76 2.0 last Saturday. It has 850 miles since the rebuild, with stock heads and Euro 8:1 pistons. Pistons and cylinders new. Compression was 140-145 all around. Checked it with all plugs out and the throttle floored. Not sure if that's as high as it should be, but I'm not losing sleep over it yet.

Jim
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nycchef
post Aug 22 2006, 02:40 PM
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[quote name='Dr Evil' date='Aug 22 2006, 06:37 AM' post='757508']
I have someone offering a friend a "reacently rebuilt" TIV engine and two things stick out to me that give me pause.

new info suspect engine # WWO 71101-102-cs112
top plate 071100031AX

what does this tell us?
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SirAndy
post Aug 22 2006, 03:23 PM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Aug 22 2006, 01:40 PM) *

what does this tell us?


that tells us that:

a. you can't read OR a1. it's not a T4 engine
b. you haven't found the "914 Info" link on top of each page here yet

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy
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Dr Evil
post Aug 22 2006, 04:05 PM
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I thought that if he used the 1.7 he would need to get a different crank and rods due tot he stroke, right? I could be wrong as it has been a while.
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Dr Evil
post Aug 22 2006, 04:06 PM
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Andy, be nice. Rich is still at the lower end of the curve when it comes to this site and TIV engines. (No I am not calling you stupid, Rich, just inexperienced (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) )

We need pics of the suspect engine.
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ptravnic
post Aug 22 2006, 04:08 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 22 2006, 06:05 PM) *

I thought that if he used the 1.7 he would need to get a different crank and rods due tot he stroke, right? I could be wrong as it has been a while.



Correct, he would need to get a stock 2.0L crank & rods. They are fairly affordable. Prob ~150 for a good used set, then an additional $100 to get them balanced (along w/the other pieces - flywheel, pressure plate, etc). Then there's a new gasket set, new bearings, new push rods, new.......
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Dr Evil
post Aug 22 2006, 04:15 PM
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Ya, I sent him a list of necessity parts already. Told him to start shopping now.

I never had to get a crank and rods separate so I did not know. I always just got and used the motor.
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Engman
post Aug 22 2006, 04:34 PM
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But - whats the $ on the engine?

M
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 22 2006, 04:38 PM
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QUOTE(jk76.914 @ Aug 22 2006, 12:36 PM) *

So happens I just checked the compression on my '76 2.0 last Saturday. It has 850 miles since the rebuild, with stock heads and Euro 8:1 pistons. Pistons and cylinders new. Compression was 140-145 all around. Checked it with all plugs out and the throttle floored. Not sure if that's as high as it should be, but I'm not losing sleep over it yet.

Jim



Just to make sure... Did you have the throttle floored as Jim suggested. If the throttle was not floored, then I think you may get lower readings. Not sure if it will make that much difference but at least some.

Mark
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Joe Bob
post Aug 22 2006, 05:02 PM
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who did the compression check?

Hot or cold?

WOT or closed intake.....?

Did you folloow up with oil in the cylinders?

Did you do a leak down?

110 IS low....IF the test was done right.
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Joe Bob
post Aug 22 2006, 05:05 PM
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BTW....ANY complete 2.0 engine is a core unless it has paperwork.

It's worth 800-1000.00
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mihai914
post Aug 22 2006, 05:19 PM
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[/quote]

the intake runners would get carbon how?

combustion takes place inside the head, and fuel is only intorduced into the runners at the very end (Injector points at the valve) so only air is flowing thru them.... not a source of carbon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
[/quote]

Sorry I was referring to the intake ports since I had everything apart to change all the engine seals. Everything was pretty clean, I could see the valve stems shine and the car is supposed to have around 68K miles.
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type47
post Aug 22 2006, 07:33 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 22 2006, 09:08 AM) *

Probably, I am in class right now so no manual here.


yeah, i want my doctor to be playing with cars instead of listening.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

and if you can get on the 914club board, you can get the manuals

here's a link ...

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/Porsch...nuals/index.htm

bookmark it now so there will be no excuses next time.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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newto914s
post Aug 22 2006, 07:34 PM
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Last August I rehabed my top end(burnt Valve), rebuild 2.0 heads, stanless valves, and re-ringed the crappy dished bus pistons (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif) GEX.
Recently I did a compression check, hot, all plugs out, at WOT. and came up with 110 all around. It's 2 liters of displacment, so I'm guessing my low numbers are tied to those crap-ass pistons. Fairly certain the book says at least 125. Any one got some jugs they want to get ride of?
Samson
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nycchef
post Aug 22 2006, 07:50 PM
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hey gang gotta love all this attention. to answer a few ? i've havent seen the engine yet. do not know who or how the comp test was done. the price is he bought a 912 engine from me for 1350 wants to give me his engine + 300. i think i can read but when i look at the 914 info at the top of the page all i see under engine # are letters. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong
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SirAndy
post Aug 22 2006, 08:03 PM
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QUOTE(nycchef @ Aug 22 2006, 06:50 PM) *

i think i can read but when i look at the 914 info at the top of the page all i see under engine # are letters. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong


correct. meaning, any T4 that was meant to be in a 914 has a serial number starting with one of those letters (some have two) and then a number which is basically the count off the assembly line ...

so, if your engine number does not start with one of the letters listed, the case is not a 914 T4 ...

simple, eh?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Andy

PS: for instance, the 2.0L case sitting here in my living room has the serial "GA 012654", which makes the case a '73 or '74 2.0L US-Spec ...
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Dr Evil
post Aug 22 2006, 08:10 PM
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QUOTE(type47 @ Aug 22 2006, 09:33 PM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 22 2006, 09:08 AM) *

Probably, I am in class right now so no manual here.


yeah, i want my doctor to be playing with cars instead of listening.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

and if you can get on the 914club board, you can get the manuals

here's a link ...

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/Porsch...nuals/index.htm

bookmark it now so there will be no excuses next time.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)



Dont worry man, I'll be the best gyno you ever had (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I was in a very pointless stats class. Nothing important, unfortunately (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Thanks for the link
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MattR
post Aug 22 2006, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Aug 22 2006, 12:09 PM) *

QUOTE(mihai914 @ Aug 22 2006, 10:17 AM) *

Last time I did a compression check on my 2.0 I had readings in the 150-160 range. I still don't know what is inside the engine exactly but it looks mostly like everything is stock. The intake runners are so free of carbon it makes me think that the engine was rebuilt not long before the car sat for 15 years. HTH


the intake runners would get carbon how?

combustion takes place inside the head, and fuel is only intorduced into the runners at the very end (Injector points at the valve) so only air is flowing thru them.... not a source of carbon (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


For future reference, you will get carbon in the intake runners from detonation. If your timing is too advanced, you'll blow exhaust gas up through the intake runners and you'll get some black goodness in your intake manifold. Yes, I've seen it.
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Brad Roberts
post Aug 22 2006, 10:43 PM
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Engines with a bunch of overlap will also show signs of carbon in the intake. Same as above (exhuast happening while the intake is closing)


B
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McMark
post Aug 23 2006, 01:12 AM
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1.7 cranks and 1.8 cranks are the same.

For a low budget 1.7/1.8 rebuild, get 96 pistons and build a 1911. Make sure you get the correct pin height, as in buy them specifically for 1.7/1.8 66mm stroke cranks. Get 1.8 heads (remember cheap), build it and run it hard till it dies.

For a low budget 2.0 rebuild, get 96 pistons for a 71 mm stroke, 1.8 heads and build.

2.0 heads will work for either engine and will add power & cost.

1.7 heads will only work with a stock 1.7 engine, all other parts are reusable.
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