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Curvie Roadlover |
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#1
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Two trunks are better than one! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,025 Joined: 29-December 02 From: Southeast Michigan Member No.: 42 ![]() |
New thread now that the trouble has been diagnosed.
I'm not sure what all I need to do at this point. I have the inboard side off and I cleaned the grease out to see if there was damage to the inside and it appears that there isn't. I took the bolts out on the outboard side but can't break the shaft loose on that end 'cuz of the trailing arm being in the way (I'm assuming it's just like the inboard side which I was able to gently tap a screwdriver into the gasket to get it loose). I'm not even sure I need to get that end off to do the fix. It would seem from the responses to my previous post that this is a common failure. Is there a repair thread someone could point me to to help me get back on the road? |
bd1308 |
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#2
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Sir Post-a-lot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,020 Joined: 24-January 05 From: Louisville,KY Member No.: 3,501 ![]() |
Inst there a circlip or something that gets undone?
Just going off of the limb here. b |
Eric_Shea |
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,299 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
QUOTE Inst there a circlip or something that gets undone? Once you get the CV seperated from the stub axle or the tranny flange, yes. QUOTE Is there a repair thread someone could point me to to help me get back on the road? There is now... Depending upon the condition, you could probably service the one CV and be back on the road. You may want to remove the 36mm castle nut and try to get the entire alxe off though. Factory manual says use a flat chisel to seperate the CV and either stub axle or tranny flange and cautions not to damage the flange surfaces. There's two types of boots. One that has the metal protective cap attached and the standard bellows that attach from both ends to the cap and the axle. If it's the later, remove the clamp strap on the rubber boot and slide it back. With a set of snap ring pliers, remove the clip and then use a press to press out the axle. This is where it would be handy to have the entire assembly out (you could check the other as well). If it's still in the car you could use a standard puller to accomplish the same job. There will be a spring washer or plate spring on the shaft. Pull that off as well. New spring plate/washers and clips are in the kits. The protective metal cap is sealed to the CV. You may ruin it trying to get it off. The new kits include the one piece dust boot cap combo. To get the old one off, tap around the edge with a small drift. To reinstall: Clean everything up. Slide the new boot/cap combo on the axle shaft. Slide the springplate/washer on the axle shaft. Use the lube in the kit to lube the CV. Slide the CV over the shaft. Attach the new clip. Slide the boot forward slap on a new CV gasket and bolt everything back up. This is why Dr. Evil makes the wired bolts gang. Heed Toms newfound warning and check your CV's. If you're loose, tighten them up. Make sure you have good Schnorr washers under each bolt and then... sit down at the ole computer and order a $22 something set of bolts from the Evil one. |
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