Rear swing arm mounting plate, Rusted and broke 1/2 the bolts Options

[Spoke]

I had the same problem with all 6 bolts.

I drilled them out starting with a real small bit and going to larger and larger bits till I got it wide enough for a bolt.

Then I welded 2 nuts together (wow, that just sounds wrong) to make a larger support length.

Then welded the nuts (it still sounds wrong) to the console.

[TargaToy]

Thanks, everybody, for your input on this. I am curious about Racer Chris's option if it should come to that. There aren't any visible welds on the bottom side. Are they INSIDE the console? And, if so, and you cut around the wider base of the tube, won't you still have to replace sheet metal on the bottom of the console so that there's a tight hole to fit snugly around the tube of the insert?

I've always wondered if the bead of weld around the top was "IT".

Thanks again. Really appreaciate all the help from everybody!

[jmill]

Sorry to revive an old topic but I was in the process of drilling out a snapped bolt in the rear swing arm console and....broke off a Cobalt bit inside the bolt.

Does anyone have any advice other than "Good luck with that"?

I'm not quite at the stage where I want to cut out the entire tube, although I know that's an option. The fragment of the bit left inside is1/8" in diameter. If I start in with a slightly larger Cobalt bit, will it simply stop all progress when it reaches the old piece?

Am I screwed?

I've broke many a cobalt drill bit off. You can't drill out a drill successfully. The new bit will seek the softer metal and then most likey break off when a corner of it grabs the broke off one. I've had luck using a rivet gun and a flat set to vibrate out the broke bit. You'll have gravity working with you on this one.

[ChrisFoley]

I've always wondered if the bead of weld around the top was "IT".

I checked two of the cars here at the shop. One is welded around the bottom, the other is not.
I don't think there are any hidden welds inside the console.

[TargaToy]

"Plan C" worked. I thought I would take one last poke at the tube before cutting it out and ordering the replacment (not that I won't have to when I do the other side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ).

Ended up "funneling" out both ends of the hole with progressive (old) bits. This allowed my 1/8" drift to go further into the hole without the shoulder of the drive bottoming before the tip made contact with the broken bit. This was a very slow process--as in it probably took me 2-3 hours of careful nibbling so that I didn't break off another bit.

Finally got the whole tube drilled out and was able to chase the original threads with a 10x1.50 tap.

Like I said, this cost me a few hours and I also blew the side out of my corded drill when turning the largest bit and it caught what was left of the bolt in the old threads. Why do they make drill bodies out of plastic anyway?