been diong research on early 73 europeon models, V.I.N. # 4732900001 thru 4732900999 Options

[smg914]

Oh yes, it was Oregon. I knew it was somewhere in the NW. The new owner lives in Anaheim Hills, CA. An old friend from my New Jersey days back in the 70's.

[busmech]

I checked my calipers and I have the late, 2 bleader screw front calipers and the early, 1 bleader screw calipers. Thanks for the help, now need to order rebuild kits as this car has not been on the road since 1986.

[orange914]

I'm parting out 4732900504 and it did have the early doors and vinyl on the front windshield pillars.

siir andy collects the v.i.n. info. on running and parted cars (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[EdwardBlume]

Yep. I think its in the db already. Thanks!

[Tom_T]

I checked my calipers and I have the late, 2 bleader screw front calipers and the early, 1 bleader screw calipers. Thanks for the help, now need to order rebuild kits as this car has not been on the road since 1986.

What model, VIN, Engine # & build date was yours again? ...that may help to bracket caliper change-over for others here.

Unless you REALLY want to rebuild yourself (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) , I found that for almost the cost of parts alone, I could get PMB - Eric Shea to do a 1st class rebuild & restoration to new or better - incl. new cad plating of calipers for about the price of parts alone (or a bit more if you add new/reman pistons) - let alone labor!

Rears are more costly due to the combo parking brake assy. After the core chg. credit - it's only about $450 + S&H for all 4 early/late as on our 914s, which would be hard to beat without someone doing a lot of the work which PMB does for free!?

I also got feedback from others here, that the Cardone et al rebuilt calipers will rust-up outside within a year, since they do not replate them, after $70-100 per side! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'm sending back the off-brand rebuilt fronts, OEM ATE rear kits & parts/supplies etc. back to PP & just having Eric/PMB restore mine.

PMB/Eric comes highly recommended by the CWs & garage-junkies here, & advertise on this site.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/page/page/4741552.htm

Hope this helps! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Tom_T]

PS - mine has been in my SoCal garage since 5/85, so I know hat you're up against! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[busmech]

The vin is 4732900357, its a 1.7 do not know where to find the build date. The brakes i will check the condition, if I can just replace the seals I will The master cylinder I was going to go with the 19mm one. Thanks for the heads up on who has them. All of the rubber is deteriorated on the car so a lot of work ahead.

[Tom_T]

The vin is 4732900357, its a 1.7 do not know where to find the build date. The brakes i will check the condition, if I can just replace the seals I will The master cylinder I was going to go with the 19mm one. Thanks for the heads up on who has them. All of the rubber is deteriorated on the car so a lot of work ahead.

Thanx, Bus Guy! btw - we also have an 88 Westy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The build date is on the VIN sticker in the rear driver's door jamb, below the VIN.

You can also pay $115.95 to Porsche Cars of No. Amer. for a Certificate of Authenticity (COA) which MIGHT list it, but they're notoriously inaccurate & incomplete! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Performance Products has a 20% off weekly special this week to Sat., so go to the website here to see what you need, then call & ask for Ron Cianci to place your order - so you get the proper parts (tell him I referred you re: 914s - nothing in it for me, but he's their 914 parts expert). PP's website:
http://www.automotion.com/?RMID=Deal_0614&..._-0614-_-Banner

Going with the OEM 19mm MC by ATE is a good idea (even the CW concours guys say to do that!), & my factory 914 trained mechanic Hans of Hans Imports & his guys all recco using the OE/OEM/OES parts for that purpose, except that Eric/PMP reccos Porterfield disk pads (pricey but supposedly worth it). Hans & co. recco. OEM rubber brake lines for street use, the SS ones are maybe better for racing/AX.

If those calipers have been sitting that long (almost as long as mine 24 yrs.) - then they're going to need more han just seals! Both Eric/PMB & Hans & co. say that the pistons are probably frozen, & will need to be power pressed out of the caliper cyls.! So you're best to completely rebuild them all, per both of them! ...otherwise you may have one of those (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif) moments while driving it!

Then if you're doing all that, you might as well get new rotors while they're still available, & PP's 15% off when I got my 4 was the best price around, so this week's 20% sale will beat that! And of course - in addition to all of those rubber parts & lines etc. (brake & fuel), the wheel bearings. susp. bushings & seals, & the CV, clutch & shifter seals should probably be replaced too! ...on & on it goes! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

If you're keeping the stock EFI, then you may want to replace all of the sensors, injectors, regulators, breaker box/breakers, ECU harness, fuel pump & relay, etc., etc. - in new where possible & reman. by Bosch or OEM/OES where new is NLA - unless you want to chase down EFI gremlins forever! These too will have deteriorated & corroded over the 20+ yrs. stored - even in Daly due to the salty air! ...I/Hans were always dealing with that in the `70's - even as a daily driver - while living 3 blocks from the beach in Hunt. Bch.!

btw - You can find the proper new Bosch injectors out there at the non-Porsche parts houses at 50-60% of the $250-300 list price (e.g.: my 2Ls are available at $183 each) & PP, Pelican, etc. may match prices if they carry them at all, if you prefer to get them there.

Just shop around for the parts for the best prices, & many are swap-able between the 914s & VW 411/412s - but verify first, cuz some differ (like the ECU for the EFI system, which Pelican can get rebuilds for yours - for which their rebuilders are up in your Bay Area & you may know them & could go direct maybe?).

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

oh & (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[busmech]

The drivers door has been replaced, with a later model as it has the door bar. The right door looks orginal and has no door bar. The car was damaged down the left side at some point, door replaced, left rear qtr panel replaced. Its has been interesting the things you can find out about a car, the origanal owner, smoked, and probable worked in the contsruction industry as the nails I found under the seats, also the $2 dollars in change always helps.

[Tom_T]

The drivers door has been replaced, with a later model as it has the door bar. The right door looks orginal and has no door bar. The car was damaged down the left side at some point, door replaced, left rear qtr panel replaced. Its has been interesting the things you can find out about a car, the origanal owner, smoked, and probable worked in the contsruction industry as the nails I found under the seats, also the $2 dollars in change always helps.

...or maybe he just frequented Home Depot alot! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Tom_T]

Oh yes, it was Oregon. I knew it was somewhere in the NW. The new owner lives in Anaheim Hills, CA. An old friend from my New Jersey days back in the 70's.

Go here for the "twin" of this topic, for pix I posted of the Orange one Steve is referring to above:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...67816&st=20

BTW Mike & Kenny - apparently the VINs were produced out of order, so the first cars were more correctly represented as 8/72 or 9/72 build dates on the door jamb VIN sticker, &/or by the Chassis no. on the Karmann plate in the front of L door jamb. This Signal Orange 914-2.0 is an earlier VIN than mine & built in 9/72, whereas mine was stickered as an 8/72 build date. More on that topic is here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=103085
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=103136

When I strip mine for body work & repainting, I'll check if it has early or late doors, A-pillar vinyl (evidence before repaints maybe under the trim/gaskets?), etc.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[Dr Evil]

I dont remember the VIN of my 73 that I wrecked two years ago, but it was out of CA, and had an oil bath 1.7 originally. If you check the VIN registry it is in there as totaled. I have plenty of info on it since I saw its guts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Tom_T]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)

Any other new early 73 914 additions to this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Because of my 73 2L being built just 8 days after the Orange one with A-pillar vinyl in the posts above - and mine having an 8/72 VIN date vs. the Orange at 9/72 - I'll be checking the A-pillar & windscreen frame of mine for any remnants of the vinyl there prior to all its repaints, to see if we can push these early 73 MY "quirks" up closer to the 2000 VINs mark.

Mine is VIN47329001954, and has some of the oddities noted above, and was built per Chassis Nos. about a week after the Orange VIN...1102 above, but it has a 9/72 date at it's VIN sticker, while mine is 8/72 with a 8/31/72 Chassis No. - ONE day & maybe "The World's Fastest 914 Built"!!?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-10181-1264213917.jpg)


vs.




.

BTW - to decode the Chassis No. for Build Date (of stamping, they took a week or so on the line IIRC), do the following:

Get Calendar for Year in the Date on Your VIN sticker (MY crosses 2 calendar years), you can Google for it.

See Karmann Plate @ LF/Driver Door Jamb or stamping on rear floor of rear trunk for Chassis No. - then .....
Chassis No.: XXZ95YY
XX = Week of Year (start week #1 even if only one day) in Year of VIN Sticker date
Z = Day of Work Week M-F = 1-5
95 = Karmann Plant ~ 96 means 100's for YY below on early Karmann Plates
YY = is the number 914 built on that date

For example - mine translates to 36th week for Thursday 8/31/72 & 45th 914 built that day; while John's Orange 2L is 35th week for Wednesday 8/23/72 & 58th 914 built that day - very close together at 8 days, but his VIN indicates a Sept. 72 & mine an Aug. 72 - just the reverse dating sequence. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)