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> Single carb problem, fuel to only one barrel
terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 11:27 AM
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Could you guys take a quick look at this video of my carb:

http://drunkencrab.com/temp/carb.mpg

The barrel on the right is to the front of the car if it matters.

This is a single progressive carb (which I have no experiance with up till now). Should I be seeing fuel to both barrels, or is this working as it should? My car runs pretty poorly, and has no real power (I have to race the engine to take off).

Thanks guys!
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Al Meredith
post Dec 3 2006, 08:41 PM
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When these carbs were shipped they included a .60 idle jet for use on bigger engines like a 914. Take out the idle jet on the primary side and drill it out or find a bigger jet. It will come off idle fine. (TWO) I always use metal gaskets at the head. This way the long runners get warm and the car will run better. Look at the number of the idle jet , bet it is too small.
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eg914
post Dec 4 2006, 12:21 AM
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terrymason,

It looks like our question about choke operation was only partly answered. The choke element is a bimetalic coil. As it heats up it opens the choke. It takes a few minutes to warm up, and then a while to cool down. It is not on-off with the key.

I have the same carb on my car. The discharge of the accelerator pump is deformed closed on the primary bore, and only squirts on the secondary side.

This is a terrible carb in the winter! The intake runners actually feel VERY cold when the car is running. It will run fairly well when warmed up, if the outside air temp is above 50F.
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bd1308
post Dec 4 2006, 12:31 AM
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i had one of these carbs, and it worked OK, but it felt like it ran lean.

I know very little about carbs, and hats off to ANYONE who can sync two carbs. I've always wanted dual progressives though.
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Flycut
post Dec 4 2006, 01:18 AM
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I recently ran a 32/36 progressive on my 2.0, Finally got it to run properly by setting air/fuel ratio screw to 2 turns out and hooking up the electric choke.
Engine would hesitate and sputter under 1500 RPM without choke working properly. Buy a set of 40 Webers with 28 venturis, 120 main jets, 200 air correction jets, F-11 emulsion tubes and 55 idle jets. Make sure to get the Empi short manifolds not the CB Performance tall IMO (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I have both manifolds and the tall CB Performance manifolds create a lot of issues with clearance. Run some Dual 40's and experience all 90 HP in you 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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dinomium
post Dec 4 2006, 11:57 AM
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The problem is you the carb is not dead center. If it is scewed one direction or the other, the airflow is messed up. I had the same issue.
Best solution is dual carbs or FI. It is not a bad lil carb if that is all you can afford right now, just a PITA to dial in...
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maf914
post Dec 4 2006, 03:16 PM
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QUOTE(eg914 @ Dec 3 2006, 10:21 PM) *

This is a terrible carb in the winter! The intake runners actually feel VERY cold when the car is running. It will run fairly well when warmed up, if the outside air temp is above 50F.


A carburator works by air velocity drawing fuel through a series of ports and jets then mixing with the airflow. The fuel then begins to vaporize, which requires heat absorbed from the airflow. The air/fuel mixture is now acting as a coolant and it has a long way to travel in the single carb configuration. This system is struggling from the start. To fight this VW added a heat riser pipe to their old single carb Type 1 engines.
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