Project Turbo 914 begins..., (yes, I know you can't turbo a 914) Options

[ConeDodger]

Found this thread:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=61381&hl=

Says basically to remove the oil filter, crank it till you have a mess, put the filter back on and live happily ever after.

Why would pulling the oil filter make a difference?

I have a Mahle filter, primed and sat overnight filled with oil on the motor now.

Resistance? McMark has a method. Not sure he will share though.

[ottox914]

Oil pressure re-established. (crossing fingers) Should have engine in car and cam break in done yet today.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

The Captain was right. Again.

[markb]

The Captain was right. Again.

Don't ya just hate it when that happens? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Sounds like it won't be long now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[silver74insocal]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) absolutely awesome and inspiring thread sir...

[ottox914]

Engine and trans are in the car.

A true test of a wife, as I was driving the jack, and she was trying to watch out and adjust the engine going up. We're still talking, so that must be a good thing.

Still need to connect a bunch of wires, clutch and throttle cables, axles, shift linkage, exhaust system. Have meetings out of town wed/thru, so with a little luck, I might get this thing lit off tomorrow evening- if not then, it'll have to be friday or saturday.

About 50/50 nervous and excited.

[ottox914]

At 10:14 am Saturday morning... it LIVES!!!!! (only now had a free second or two to post)

OK, I was an hour short of my planned blast off, but hey, thats how it went. EGT peaked around 1300, oil temps and pressure good, I used the SDS to run the AFR at 13.5-14.0 for the 20 min cam break in. It sounded a little rough for the first minute or 3, but got progressively smoother until 20 minutes had run. Can hardly wait to put it on the road and see how she runs.

We had a wedding to be part of, so the garage time was limited Saturday. Still need to: oil/filter change, check valves, connect clutch, mount intercooler and piping, fix a couple push rod tube leaks. I used the seals that came with the gasket kit from Jake, (viton?) a little assembly oil to lube them going in, and have a couple that dripped. Not alot, but a drip is a drip, and shouldn't be happening here.

Any suggestions? It might be something simple like the tension wire to retain the pushrod tubes might have popped out. Would just rotating the push rod tube 90-120 degrees possibly help it seal better? I certainly can pull the rockers, pushrods, and tubes, but if there is an simpler initial fix to try, I'd be all for giving it a try.

Being an insurance adjuster, with lots of hail in my area, (on my house as well) I don't expect much free time for the next month or more, but hopefully I can steal enough time to actually get it on the road and drive it!

[rick 918-S]

Great news! I have no suggestions on the oil leaks. I'm chasing the carrot myself. (too much work) Great to read this though!

[type11969]

I use a little teflon thread sealant in the o-ring groove and on the o-ring on both sides of the tube - no leaks. I know I picked that up as a recommendation on some board.

[Mark Henry]

I spin the tube as I gently push them in, most of the time if you have a leak you cut the O-ring as you installed it.

[ConeDodger]

Jake uses a sealant on regular push rod tube seals. Not sure if he has bought into the Viton camp. Did you have to shim your push rod tubes?

Heck Dave, You're in Wisconsin - You don't have to go to the wedding just send beer and you will be forgiven. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Congratulations!!!

[Type 4 Unleashed]

The Viton push rod seals are the way to go, I have a set that are going on their third motor or thied year of use, the black or red or green seals after a year get hard and leak, due to engine expansion when at engine operating temps, remember aluminum push rods expand with the motor and operating temps and still have .006" clearance when hot.

The Viton seals are brown and EMW usually has them in stock.

This is how I do it: Rocker arm shafte shims installed case side of the push rod tubes (8), which hold the tubes out slightly which have a tighter seal on the seal, I use bosch point grease to lube the seal and bore and I don't have leaks.

Head side: Tubes are pushed in very carefully because the bore & seal are dry no luberacation except for a little spit on the seal to help it slide in.

I don't use the holding wire for two reasons one it's not needed and two it get's in the way when adjusting push rods, I run the cromoly push rods which are adjusted to 0.0 lash but are still able to spin, but some are very hard to spin with the wire in the way, but with it gone it makes much easier. .

I place a bead of high temp silicone around the edge of the push rod tube and tube bore rocker side, and it doesn't leak.

I use the high temp red silicon which is more pliable than the black after it hardens which allows the tube to move slightly when the engine expands at operating temps.

I have a silicone tube applicator that is so cool to use, will post a pic later and where to buy.

[Type 4 Unleashed]

A nice tool, that allows to apply a perfect bead with very little practice and allows to start & stopt beads as needed.

I believe they are under $20 a piece shipped I had bought several.


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[ottox914]

Houston, we have a problem. At the last autocross event the 914T was at, the turbo got a little "chirpy" as I got beyond the surge line for the compressor at 4500+ rpms in 2nd gear. But I was only showing 4-5psi at the engine due to some pesky boost leaks. Lord only knows what the little turbo that could was actually putting out. FINALLY got the boost leaks sealed, and took it for spin. Turbo seemed more responsive, so thats a good thing. Instead of straining to show 5psi at 4500 rpm, she shot right up to 5psi and beyond, by 3k rpm. Cool. And was chirping by 3500 rpm and 6-7psi boost at around 11:1 afr's. Backed off the gas. Hitting the surge line of the compressor. Hmmmmm....... the old motor, a bone stock 2.0, would push that turbo up to 10-11 psi, the intake air temps were never more than, say 20 degrees or so of the ambient temps, so I don't think I was overheating the intake air. Hmmmmm...... Len assured me the new heads would flow much better than the old ones. Jake was sending me a "top secret" cam that should flow like crazy, to spool up the turbo. I could never get the 2 of them to commit to any flow numbers. I think they are quite a bit more than before.

So one evening this week I'll be putting the subie WRX turbo and exhaust pipe back in, and we'll see how that goes. Hopefully the injectors can keep up...

[Andyrew]

What are you using to control the turbo? Ball and spring or electronic boost controller?

I have learned that a ball and spring will severely detriment the spool time. I gained 500rpm's in spool time from a ball and spring to a electric..

[Jake Raby]

That cam isn't secret, it has ran with awesome results in several 914 Turbo engines including some producing 30 PSI boost making over 300 RWHP from a 2 liter engine.
Your engine will be much different than before.
I have been using the Turbosmart Eboost 2 with great luck as of late. I have gotten 507RWHP from a 2.4 street engine, 510 RWHp from a 2.3 drag race engine and just made 270 FWHP @20 PSI from a 1500 Land Speed engine using the eboost 2....

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Sep 7 2010, 05:41 AM

[ottox914]

What are you using to control the turbo? Ball and spring or electronic boost controller?

I have learned that a ball and spring will severely detriment the spool time. I gained 500rpm's in spool time from a ball and spring to a electric..

Still using a "boostvalve.com" ball and spring set up. In 2002 sport compact car did a boost controller show down, (unfortunately now that the mag is gone, so is the online copy of the results) and the boostvalve performed better than most of the EBC's they tested. So for now, cheep, stable and reliable will have to work for me, as many of the current crop of EBC's are $3-400+, and thats money I can spend elsewhere on the project, like for dyno time and other bits and pieces as needed. I am considering an EBC, probably the "gizzmo", as it has gotten good reviews and at under $300 seems a good value, doing what it needs to do, simple install, and reasonable to set up.

Jake- didn't mean to suggest your turbo cam grind is a secret- heck, if someone is thinking of doing a turbo motor right, call up the man and get the right cam. The specs are a little more of a guarded thing.

[Andyrew]

My dad and I run the Apexi boost controller. Older tech, but we wouldnt go with anything else. However there are some other good options. Get one with RPM programable boost and gear correction (Aka first gear +10%, 5th gear minus 25%)

[d914]

I havent read the whole thread, you have a waste gate but do you also have a blow off valve??? I know dumb question.. But if the chirp from the turbo is after a lift?? the pressure hits the turbo... I'll go away again... Once a year I get these things right.. I think I'm over quota!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[spare time toys]

What are you using to control the turbo? Ball and spring or electronic boost controller?

I have learned that a ball and spring will severely detriment the spool time. I gained 500rpm's in spool time from a ball and spring to a electric..

Still using a "boostvalve.com" ball and spring set up. In 2002 sport compact car did a boost controller show down, (unfortunately now that the mag is gone, so is the online copy of the results) and the boostvalve performed better than most of the EBC's they tested. So for now, cheep, stable and reliable will have to work for me, as many of the current crop of EBC's are $3-400+, and thats money I can spend elsewhere on the project, like for dyno time and other bits and pieces as needed. I am considering an EBC, probably the "gizzmo", as it has gotten good reviews and at under $300 seems a good value, doing what it needs to do, simple install, and reasonable to set up.

Jake- didn't mean to suggest your turbo cam grind is a secret- heck, if someone is thinking of doing a turbo motor right, call up the man and get the right cam. The specs are a little more of a guarded thing.

Check this link it may be the art. you were thinking of saved at another site.


http://www.turbo-owners.com/forum/general-...ontrollers.html

[ottox914]

I havent read the whole thread, you have a waste gate but do you also have a blow off valve??? I know dumb question.. But if the chirp from the turbo is after a lift?? the pressure hits the turbo... I'll go away again... Once a year I get these things right.. I think I'm over quota!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

You're right- and not so right. There are 2 sorts of surge you can get. One is what you describe, on throttle lift. Been there, had that, adjusted the BOV to take care of it. What I am now facing is more like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU

Although not on a car/engine/turbo combo like THAT one. This is surge from over spinning the turbo- need a bigger one now.


STT- that is exactly the write up I was referencing. Not to say that EBC's haven't come along way since 2002, but for now, the extra 3-4-500 to get into one is money better spent on dyno time and other updates.