Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Any reason to *not* buy this inexpensive Metal Cutting Band Saw...
Mid_Engine_914
post Dec 29 2006, 10:19 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 195
Joined: 22-September 06
From: Left Coast
Member No.: 6,888



to cut steel tubing? I will probably only need to use it a few times a year but I want to make sure it makes accurate mitered cuts...

(IMG:http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0000AXAYK.01-A1787XOD7Q2I4M._SS500_SCLZZZZZZZ_V39379494_.jpg)

http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Industrial-...e=UTF8&s=hi
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
scotty b
post Dec 29 2006, 10:38 PM
Post #2


rust free you say ?
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 16,375
Joined: 7-January 05
From: richmond, Va.
Member No.: 3,419
Region Association: None



Best bang for the buck IMO. I have used many different cutting apparati and will NEVER buy another "chop" saw! Those cheapo band saws do a DECENT job just don't try and force the cut. Let the saw blade do the werk, and set the guides (if eqipped) as close togother as possible so the blade won't flex. I used a larger wet blade band saw for a while that was nice. I'm looking for a used cold cut now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) P.S. the cheapo band saws are also handy in the upright position for cutting sheet metal patches (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mid_Engine_914
post Dec 29 2006, 10:46 PM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 195
Joined: 22-September 06
From: Left Coast
Member No.: 6,888



Thanks for the advice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
PRS914-6
post Dec 29 2006, 11:09 PM
Post #4


Excellence Magazine Project 914 3.6
***

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 1,278
Joined: 20-May 06
From: Central California
Member No.: 6,031
Region Association: None



I have a Wilton that is similar. I've used it for years. Two suggestions...

1. DO NOT BUY CHEAP BLADES! You won't find good ones at HF or similar and don't be surprised if a good one cost $15.00-$20.00
2. If you are cutting all thin tubing, get a fine toothed blade. Rule of thumb....3 teeth on the metal. Your blades will llast longer.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Twystd1
post Dec 29 2006, 11:31 PM
Post #5


You don't want to know... really.....
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,515
Joined: 12-September 04
From: Newport Beach, California
Member No.: 2,743



Ditto on the good blades.

I use a place called "Industrial Blade" in Santa Ana, Ca.

Fair prices and any length custom to OEM... No problem.

And they make very kewl carbide tipped band saw blades for Aluminum and stainless.....

Clayton
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mueller
post Dec 30 2006, 12:42 AM
Post #6


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 17,150
Joined: 4-January 03
From: Antioch, CA
Member No.: 87
Region Association: None



also check out ENCO for the saw and blades...one of my best "investments' in my workshop !!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/burnout.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
McMark
post Dec 30 2006, 01:37 AM
Post #7


914 Freak!
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 20,179
Joined: 13-March 03
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Member No.: 419
Region Association: None



I'm glad this came up. A chop saw (which I really hate) was on my short list of new tools to buy. I'll go this route instead. THANKS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
John
post Dec 30 2006, 01:47 AM
Post #8


member? what's a member?
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,393
Joined: 30-January 04
From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA)
Member No.: 1,615
Region Association: None



What's the problem with chop saws? I like the one I have.

Those chep-o band saws are OK, but I still like my porta-band better.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mid_Engine_914
post Dec 30 2006, 03:07 AM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 195
Joined: 22-September 06
From: Left Coast
Member No.: 6,888



In his "Working With Tubing" DVD Ron Covell uses a band saw to cut tubing so I figured that's the tool to get.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisFoley
post Dec 30 2006, 07:22 AM
Post #10


I am Tangerine Racing
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,969
Joined: 29-January 03
From: Bolton, CT
Member No.: 209
Region Association: None



I used to have three of them at my shop until I bought a nice big saw. I still use one at the shop and have one at home as well.
They do not cut straight and the angle adjusting slot isn't well formed. The sheet metal support frame sucks, and the motor plate isn't sturdy enough. and so on...
All of these issues can be dealt with if you are patient.
One of the most useful upgrades I recommend is a better support frame made with square tubing.
I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisFoley
post Dec 30 2006, 07:29 AM
Post #11


I am Tangerine Racing
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,969
Joined: 29-January 03
From: Bolton, CT
Member No.: 209
Region Association: None



QUOTE(John @ Dec 30 2006, 02:47 AM) *

What's the problem with chop saws? ...

Too loud, messy & smelly, sprays sparks, wastes material, less accurate, leaves a big burr...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
brant
post Dec 30 2006, 08:56 AM
Post #12


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 11,826
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Colorado
Member No.: 47
Region Association: Rocky Mountains



QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Dec 30 2006, 06:22 AM) *

I used to have three of them at my shop until I bought a nice big saw. I still use one at the shop and have one at home as well.
They do not cut straight and the angle adjusting slot isn't well formed. The sheet metal support frame sucks, and the motor plate isn't sturdy enough. and so on...
All of these issues can be dealt with if you are patient.
One of the most useful upgrades I recommend is a better support frame made with square tubing.
I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.



chris,
where do you buy these 100ft rolls of blade material?

(any online resources?)

brant
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bartlett 914
post Dec 30 2006, 09:08 AM
Post #13


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,218
Joined: 30-August 05
From: South Elgin IL
Member No.: 4,707
Region Association: Upper MidWest



I get my band saw blades from MSC (mscdirect.com). These guys are huge. Decent prices. They have just about everything industrial you could ask for and more. Enco is also a possibility. MSC owns Enco BTW. I don't own one of the band saws you are looking at. I have a Rollin band saw. This is an upright model. The band assembly is on an incline. The work is hels stationary and the band saw "Rolls" toward the work. I couldn't live without it.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
PRS914-6
post Dec 30 2006, 09:18 AM
Post #14


Excellence Magazine Project 914 3.6
***

Group: Retired Members
Posts: 1,278
Joined: 20-May 06
From: Central California
Member No.: 6,031
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Dec 30 2006, 05:22 AM) *

I also agree about the blade quality. You could buy a 100 ft coil of 1/2" wide Starrett bimetal blade material in a couple of tooth pitches, then find a fabrication shop with a blade welder. Paying them to weld blades should be cheaper than buying finished blades. I think you can get 18 blades from 100 ft.


Tha't exactly what I do. Last roll cost $220.00 but each blade lasts a LONG time. A Harbor Freight blade lasts me about one day
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisFoley
post Dec 30 2006, 09:57 AM
Post #15


I am Tangerine Racing
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,969
Joined: 29-January 03
From: Bolton, CT
Member No.: 209
Region Association: None



Go to the Starrett Catalog. In the Contact us pulldown select Find a Distributor for a local source.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 2nd January 2025 - 10:43 AM