How To: Swivel foot valve adjusters on a 74-76 2.0L? Options

[Aaron Cox]

[quote name='CHAFF' date='Feb 26 2007, 08:19 PM' post='868303']
Ok here is my deal.

I understand that this will require cutting back the rocker....

But here is the question no one wants to answer....you still need to shim up the mounting block? If so then doesn't the old push rod become too short hence you need a new set of longer pushrods?

-L


[/quote]

Chaff,

What are you confused about? This is a known good upgrade. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
[/quote]
[/quote]

YES. you need new pushrods to do it RIGHT.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-219-1170631655.jpg)

[CHAFF]

Thanks Aaron, that answers it.

You need to clearance 60 tho off the rocker face. gives you enough adjustment room without having to use a bazillion shims to get it out that far.

you sometimes have to use shims (NOT always) to get the rocker arm geom. perfect. that is, the rocker adjuster is CO LINEAR with the valve stem (directly in line with) at HALF LIFT.

you will also need to use cut to length pushrods in conjunction with shims to achieve that.

really simple.

[Jake Raby]

I have a 9,000 word step by step valve train geometry article on my forums...


Its a must read.

Shimming rockers is 98% of the time NOT the correct method to attain proper geometry. Read my article to find out why.

I also had a Radio Show in December that went over all these things step by step!

[Dave_Darling]

But here is the question no one wants to answer....you still need to shim up the mounting block? If so then doesn't the old push rod become too short hence you need a new set of longer pushrods?

It will work if you don't put any shims between the rocker shaft and the head. However, the rocker arms will not line up very well with the valves, which will lead to accelerated wear. Since one of the main reasons to do this mod is to cut down on the wear on your valves and valve guides, having mis-aligned adjusters is rather counterproductive.

To get everything set up "perfectly" (or at least close!), you need to set up some measuring jigs and fiddle with at least two measurements that I can think of off the top of my head. One is how far away from the head the rocker shaft is, and that's where the shims come in. Another is the pushrod length--which is where an adjustable pushrod comes in handy. You also, at least sometimes, need to mess a little more with the part of the rocker closest to the valve.

Google "rocker arm geometry" and you can probably dig up a few articles about the subject. Or head over to Jake's to read about the application specifically to the Type IV engine with swivel-foot adjusting lugs.

--DD

[914werke]

I thought Id update the descriptive image. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[maf914]

Rich, Nice clarification to the earlier posted photo. May I ask why you indicate the countersink? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[914Sixer]

10mm swivel foot German adjusters are now available for about $100

[914werke]

good to know, source?

[bbrock]

Here's a machining service and source for swivel feet.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/det....php?id=2060099

Or here is the link to direct ordering the adjusters from the manufacturer.

http://www.tp-technologie.de/produkte%20ve...ellsch%20en.htm

Not Genuine Porsche but have gotten good reviews. I think @nditiz1 installed them. If so, maybe we can get an update.

[nditiz1]

They worked out great. I saw no issues while using them. The machining was also done well. I had the same guy machine the stock pushrods so as to get the correct rocker geometry.

[Mark Henry]

Yes you have to machine and countersink the rockers.
Yes you have to use custom pushrods, I only use Manton PR's.
You may also have to shorten the SF adjuster 8mm threaded section.

IMHO Swivel foot adjusters are not required for a stock/stock cammed engine.
But they're required for engines with higher lift cams or HD springs.