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> Heaven for the Hell Hole
scotty b
post Jan 12 2007, 11:05 PM
Post #21


rust free you say ?
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If you cut your outer skin say 4" futher (2" per side of cut) then the inner, you could weld the new piece to your existing inner and make a new smooth outer skin, thus keeping 2 layers and an OE appearance.
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McMark
post Jan 13 2007, 01:18 AM
Post #22


914 Freak!
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Sorry John, I misunderstood your confusion... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

My philosophy is to replace as little material as possible. If your welds are solid and you use sufficiently thick material you shouldn't have a problem. If you can weld in the inner piece and then weld the outer piece, that would be best, but a thicker piece (16 guage or so) would work as well. It all depends on how big of a section you are replacing.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Jan 13 2007, 09:29 AM
Post #23


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QUOTE(obscurity @ Jan 12 2007, 08:18 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2007, 05:34 PM) *

Originally, the outer skin is flat, and inner piece has ribs. It sounded like you were a little unclear on that point.



I get that but I guess I am asking do you need to replace the whole piece or can you just replace a portion and attempt to weld the new thicker, ribbed material to both the outer skin and the remaining inner stiffener?

It just seems that things would be getting pretty cut up within the long and I was concerned with strength.

The reason I ask is I am wrestling with the decision of whether to buy the replacement piece or try to fabricate what I have to cut out due to rust


I would always suggest to fabricate a piece if the longitudinal under the battery has only one rust hole on the top of it. This lets every thing stay in place and makes for an easy repair. (of course the engine has to be removed to do this) Then the engine shelf is easily installed and then the battery tray and support.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 13 2007, 09:41 AM
Post #24


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Very nice, Thanks for posting those.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Jan 13 2007, 10:50 AM
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QUOTE(obscurity @ Jan 12 2007, 08:18 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2007, 05:34 PM) *

Originally, the outer skin is flat, and inner piece has ribs. It sounded like you were a little unclear on that point.



I get that but I guess I am asking do you need to replace the whole piece or can you just replace a portion and attempt to weld the new thicker, ribbed material to both the outer skin and the remaining inner stiffener?

It just seems that things would be getting pretty cut up within the long and I was concerned with strength.

The reason I ask is I am wrestling with the decision of whether to buy the replacement piece or try to fabricate what I have to cut out due to rust


we would suggest that with today's welding equipment there is not a problem splicing except though to use common sense when cutting as not to interfere with the reinforcements inside the frame member (meaning cut more or less as not to interfere, but replace the affected area including the whole reinforcement.
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pete-stevers
post Jan 13 2007, 02:27 PM
Post #26


saved from fire!
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great pics...Dok-tor....
and it is gud to see you aboard...
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Jan 13 2007, 03:18 PM
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QUOTE(pete-stevers @ Jan 13 2007, 12:27 PM) *

great pics...Dok-tor....
and it is gud to see you aboard...


thank you! I have many pics that I will post when appropriate or when asked of course!!!!


That piece sort of reminds me of buying a brick from the empire state building to say you own a piece of the building. "Be the first in your neighboorhood to own a piece of a 914!"
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snflupigus
post Feb 4 2007, 02:07 PM
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I will more than need a few of those parts... am I the only one who has problems with the AA site not showing pics of most of these parts though? pics are just little red x's, not found... could we put prices next to each of those listed on the first post?
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 4 2007, 02:18 PM
Post #29


PMB Performance
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George,

Any solutions for the passengers side yet?
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SirAndy
post Feb 4 2007, 02:26 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 4 2007, 12:18 PM) *

Any solutions for the passengers side yet?


don't you mean drivers-side? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

unless you recently moved to england ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) Andy
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 4 2007, 03:34 PM
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Uhhhhhhhhh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Yes... any solution for the drivers side yet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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IronHillRestorations
post Feb 4 2007, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 4 2007, 01:34 PM) *


Yes... any solution for the drivers side yet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


You betcha! One of these!


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 4 2007, 09:24 PM
Post #33


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Can you lop off the back 1/2 of that and send it to me? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Feb 5 2007, 11:14 AM
Post #34


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The drivers side was not a problem for us here in the south but if we have to replace this area we cut and weld in a used piece or for the section on the longitudinal that is covered with the carpet, we can turn one of the right ones upside down and use it!
We too like Perry have a bunch of the new left longtiudinals in stock but there is just no call for them!!!!!! How much for yours Perry?
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 5 2007, 11:19 AM
Post #35


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I have a weird NorCal car that has great longs etc. No rust EXCEPT the hell holes. They must have gotten plugged. I currently have a couple of Mark Blands kits. I think these will work but it sure would be nice to have a drivers and passengers shelf to throw in there.
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tdsmoonchild
post Feb 6 2007, 09:17 AM
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Terry
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 5 2007, 11:19 AM) *

I have a weird NorCal car that has great longs etc. No rust EXCEPT the hell holes. They must have gotten plugged. I currently have a couple of Mark Blands kits. I think these will work but it sure would be nice to have a drivers and passengers shelf to throw in there.


What is a Mark Blands kit?
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Bartlett 914
post Feb 6 2007, 09:43 AM
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QUOTE(tdsmoonchild @ Feb 6 2007, 07:17 AM) *

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 5 2007, 11:19 AM) *

I have a weird NorCal car that has great longs etc. No rust EXCEPT the hell holes. They must have gotten plugged. I currently have a couple of Mark Blands kits. I think these will work but it sure would be nice to have a drivers and passengers shelf to throw in there.


What is a Mark Blands kit?


I know of 2 kits Engman (Mark Bland) sells. One is a reinforcment for the inside of the tub. 3 formed pieces I believe. Then there is the Hell Hole Kit for the CSOB. This is a flat sheet metal kit for repair to the top of the Hell Hole. There are some pieces to repair the lower inner whelhouse, upper firewall (behind the seat) and the engine shelf. Some forming is required on all these pieces.
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Eric_Shea
post Feb 6 2007, 09:47 AM
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QUOTE
What is a Mark Blands kit?


Clicky Here
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tdsmoonchild
post Feb 15 2007, 10:28 AM
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QUOTE(John @ Jan 12 2007, 12:50 PM) *

Just how much is that collection of parts (ballpark as I can't afford it right now anyway)?



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Feb 15 2007, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(tdsmoonchild @ Feb 15 2007, 08:28 AM) *

QUOTE(John @ Jan 12 2007, 12:50 PM) *

Just how much is that collection of parts (ballpark as I can't afford it right now anyway)?



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)


About 650. There are also many more rust repair parts now made for the 914 and we really thank the manufacturers who have taken the time and invested the money in making the parts. It really speaks for the popularity of the car.
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