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> Clear turn signal lens preview
Coy
post Jan 16 2007, 03:04 PM
Post #21


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TonyAKAVW, Those look way cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Did you have a post somewhere with white LED sidemarkers? If so, is it just plug & play? Also, how much would it cost to get white bead blasted turnsignals and side markers with orange LEDs to match, and how hard would it be for a regular electronically challenged dumbsh!t such as myself to change LEDs when they ware out?
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byndbad914
post Jan 16 2007, 03:35 PM
Post #22


shoehorn and some butter - it fits
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Tony - when do you think you will be getting some to sell and do you have a projected price per set? Figures you would get them a couple days after I move from being about 4 miles from you to about 1,000... I woulda loved to have seen these in person!
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sk8kat1
post Jan 16 2007, 03:54 PM
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THOSE ARE SWEET!!!! -- when you figure out a price let me know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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TonyAKAVW
post Jan 16 2007, 04:30 PM
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That's my ride.
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I really don't know when I'm going to get a shipment of these. In any case they will come as clear lenses and I will bead blast for those who want them blasted.

Right now the die needs to have water cooling lines put in. There are some small defects that appear on the lenses due to the die not being cooled. My father-in-law who made the die is very busy right now so I don't know when he's going to get to this. I'll probably start pestering him in a week or two.

I haven't done any white sidemarkers, don't know what that is about...

The LEDs I'm using for the amber section are Superflux LEDs, while the white LED is a 5 watt luxeon star. The superflux LEDs take a fair amount of current and to keep them lit under varying line voltage requires a regulator. For efficiency, I'll be using a switching regulator with adjustable brightness.

The white LED is fairly unique. The amount of heat that it generates is significant and needs to be dealt with properly to avoid burning it out or shortening its lifetime. It also requires a regulator, both to work properly under varying voltages, but also for protection.

If you want to get the amber section working, all you need is a perfboard/prototyping board, a bunch of the LEDs, a big resistor, and some time soldering. Some care will need to be taken not to run the LEDs at their maximum intensity because they require heatsinking through a properly designed printed circuit board. In short, (pun intended) to get these high power LEDs working to their full potential takes a bit of effort. I'm working on something for that...

-Tony
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woobn8r
post Jan 16 2007, 04:57 PM
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Verry Cool Indeed!

I'd be up for a set as soon as they are available!


Sean...
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matthepcat
post Sep 22 2011, 09:58 AM
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Bump.

Tony, I want a set of these. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Matt
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