Wheels and Tires, Let's get this discussion centralized Options

[davep]

I'm finally reading this thread.
One combo you missed was the 165SR15 on 5.5" rims.
In 1973 and 1974 and perhaps 1975 the 1.7 or 1.8 engine cars came with the 165SR15 specification. The 2.0 engine cars came with the 165HR15 specification. One easy way for me to tell the original engine in some of them. I'll try to put together a part number list of rims and descriptions.
We have the 4.5" & 5.5" early steel painted, 5.5" early steel chrome, late styled 5.5" painted, Pedrini, Fuchs and Mahle alloys, Pedrini and Fuchs for the non hub-centric as varieties, and two LE varieties of the Mahles for the 914/4. I'm not sure how many of the early steel wheels were tube type rims; the 'J' designation is for tubeless varieties. I believe everything from at least 1973 MY on had tubeless rims as standard.

[Pat Garvey]

I'm finally reading this thread.
One combo you missed was the 165SR15 on 5.5" rims.
In 1973 and 1974 and perhaps 1975 the 1.7 or 1.8 engine cars came with the 165SR15 specification. The 2.0 engine cars came with the 165HR15 specification. One easy way for me to tell the original engine in some of them. I'll try to put together a part number list of rims and descriptions.
We have the 4.5" & 5.5" early steel painted, 5.5" early steel chrome, late styled 5.5" painted, Pedrini, Fuchs and Mahle alloys, Pedrini and Fuchs for the non hub-centric as varieties, and two LE varieties of the Mahles for the 914/4. I'm not sure how many of the early steel wheels were tube type rims; the 'J' designation is for tubeless varieties. I believe everything from at least 1973 MY on had tubeless rims as standard.

Dave,

Is the rim size & style (J designation) stamped anywhere on the wheel (talking steelies here)? My late 72 came originally with tubes & Continentals. The was the only set of tube-type tires I've ever had on the car. All the rest have been tubeless. The current set (28 years old) is Pirelli CN36, and they don't lose more than 1-3 pounds of air per year. Course I am dumping these before any rugged use is put on the car.
Pat

[Porsche Rescue]

Will be stamped "5 1/2 J 15" on the outside near the bolt holes. Also will have "ET 40" which is the offset.

[davep]

Jim has it correct. The 'J' for tubeless will always be found in the size designation. If it is not there, then it indicates a tube type version. You can tell this with the tire off the rim when you can look for the safety ribs. The safety ribs are a wide (.5" or so) raised ( about a sixteenth") portion just inside of where the tire bead sits. It is there to prevent the tire beads from moving away from the edge of the rim and thus unseating themselves. Early 5 bolt Fuchs, Gasburner Mahles, and many of the early steel rims were tube type. You can run them tubeless, but there is some risk in doing so; most of the risk comes when cornering briskly and the twisting forces on the bead of the tire can cause it to walk about. If it becomes unseated you could have a dramatic deflation of the tire and consequent loss of control. So you would be most at risk on a track or during autocross and less so on the street. If you should cause an accident due to this scenario, you would likely be liable for damages.

[Pat Garvey]

Jim has it correct. The 'J' for tubeless will always be found in the size designation. If it is not there, then it indicates a tube type version. You can tell this with the tire off the rim when you can look for the safety ribs. The safety ribs are a wide (.5" or so) raised ( about a sixteenth") portion just inside of where the tire bead sits. It is there to prevent the tire beads from moving away from the edge of the rim and thus unseating themselves. Early 5 bolt Fuchs, Gasburner Mahles, and many of the early steel rims were tube type. You can run them tubeless, but there is some risk in doing so; most of the risk comes when cornering briskly and the twisting forces on the bead of the tire can cause it to walk about. If it becomes unseated you could have a dramatic deflation of the tire and consequent loss of control. So you would be most at risk on a track or during autocross and less so on the street. If you should cause an accident due to this scenario, you would likely be liable for damages.

Jeez, I knew that! Just forgot it.

As soon as I posted (instead of before) I checked. Yeppir it's there - J designation.

[914pwer]

i had four of these on my 914-4 -71
it is remotec 15*5,5

[slackin' at work]

could someone tell me the original finish for a Pedrini rim? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
were they painted? if so, anyone know the color (don't say silver).

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/members/markd/misc/wheel/pedriniA.jpg)

[1970 Neun vierzehn]

"slackin",

The general consensus is that the Pedrinis were finished an anodized s****r.
Those owners that refinished the wheels themselves seem to recommend WURTH s****r.
Please note, I didn't say "s****r" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Paul

[slackin' at work]

"slackin",

The general consensus is that the Pedrinis were finished an anodized s****r.
Those owners that refinished the wheels themselves seem to recommend WURTH s****r.
Please note, I didn't say "s****r" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Paul

my silver comment was to deter the smart-a$$es... but looks like I only egged them on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

anyway, thanks paul for the info. there appears to be several silvers by wurth.
would it be an enamel or laquer? "Wheel paint" or just "metalic silver"?

since painting isn't original, would powdercoating be out of the question?
neither is original and the PC would be more durable. thoughts?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
-chris

[1970 Neun vierzehn]

Chris,
I think you'd get some first-hand accounts and/or better response if you would post your question(s) in the main Originality and History portion of this Forum. I think most members look at these specific threads infrequently, and when they do, I believe for visual reference.

The Wurth paint that I've seen referenced before was laquer.

Paul

[Pat Garvey]

Anodized

[davep]

You don't want to powder-coat rims, that just makes things worse.

[Pat Garvey]

"slackin",

The general consensus is that the Pedrinis were finished an anodized s****r.
Those owners that refinished the wheels themselves seem to recommend WURTH s****r.
Please note, I didn't say "s****r" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Paul

my silver comment was to deter the smart-a$$es... but looks like I only egged them on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

anyway, thanks paul for the info. there appears to be several silvers by wurth.
would it be an enamel or laquer? "Wheel paint" or just "metalic silver"?

since painting isn't original, would powdercoating be out of the question?
neither is original and the PC would be more durable. thoughts?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
-chris

Chris,

Please, please have them cleaned up & re-anodized. Preserve them. Restore them. They'll be worth so much more than the cost involved.

And, they weren't anodized silver (there, I said it). Anodizing protects & covers the original "silver" metal finish. Easy to keep clean - just never use abrasives. Should last you until you're as old as I am, maybe more.



Pat

[black73]

Has anyone mentioned steel wheels painted body color?

[Pat Garvey]

Has anyone mentioned steel wheels painted body color?

No.

Probably because we (I should say "I") am/are not aware of any such comination for US cars.

All steel wheels should be painted satin silver, with center lug areas painted flat black.
Pat

[black73]

Well, I am the second owner of this car and I am 99.9% sure that is how the car was purchased in Bristol, TN, in August of 1973. The original owner was a very good friend of my wife and she is sure they were always orange (Phoenix Red).
That picture was taken in about '83-'84.

[Pat Garvey]

Any other historians care to step in here?
Pat

[1970 Neun vierzehn]

I would venture to say that if that 914 had paint-to-match the bodywork wheels when it was delivered new, the dealer, more than likely, was responsible. When I acquired my '70/4 in 1975, I knew of an Irish Green 914 that had yellow painted steelies. I knew for a fact that the owner had painted them that color (perhaps he really wanted a Lotus (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ), and back then, I thought it looked pretty neat (that '70s show/Disco era sort of thing). Now if I saw it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Paul

[Ferg]

Well, I am the second owner of this car and I am 99.9% sure that is how the car was purchased in Bristol, TN, in August of 1973. The original owner was a very good friend of my wife and she is sure they were always orange (Phoenix Red).
That picture was taken in about '83-'84.

Is the spare Red???

Ferg

[SirAndy]

Also will have "ET 40" which is the offset.

btw. just for the record, ET stands for the german word "Einpresstiefe" which losely translates into offset ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy