Project Chalon, stateofidleness' Progress Thread Options

[CMONNETT]

You can take all the emissions stuff off, as long as you cap the air injectors. If not you'll have a real big exhaust leak. That part in your first pic is part of the emissions also. You can also remove that bracket with the pulley.

As far as your last few posts, the bolts for your engine mount bar you can get at Rhone Co. or Alamo Bolt and Screw here in town. The mounts you can get at Pelican, Paragon, Zims etc. etc. I might have an early exhaust system for a 2.0 I'd be willing to let go of. If you ever need help just ask. You're basically five minutes from my house.

Chris

[stateofidleness]

hey chris not to sound dumb, but where are the air injectors? got a pic?

and i still dont know what this part is and if it can be removed or not?


did some wire brushing and gettin it all cleaned up pretty nice

got the new trans mounts on and ready to tackle the intake runners...

the smog stuff still has me baffled.. surely there's someone that has done a smog removal before and can list what all can be removed? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

what part of san antonio you live in chris? we'll have to meet up on a day off soon!

[stateofidleness]

so i took this "bracket" looking thing off tonight when looking for stuff to prep for paint and not even sure what it's use is... what is it and can it be removed?

[jd74914]

It holds the air cleaner.

[stateofidleness]

ahh ok. thank you sir.

new question: what all do ya'll recommend painting with high heat paint and what can be painted with "normal" paint?

[CMONNETT]

The air injectors are the small tubes coming out of the heads on either side of the intake runners. There are four in all. The tubing running to them can be removed. Just be carefull when you remove the plumbing going to them. Then you have to cap them to keep from getting an exhaust leak. Also any hoses running to or from the air pump can be removed as well. It's real easy to do. I did it on a 76 2.0 I had a few years back. I can help you if you need it. I'm not to far from you. I'm over in Universal City, by the Forum.

[Slider]

If i remember right if you are pulling off the heaters. you do not want to plug the ducts at the bottom where the S tubes or i think you called them J tubes connect. the formost authority of Type 4 motors an gentlman by the name of Jake Raby recommends that you do not plug the holes. just leave them open.

Make sure to plug the holes in the engine tin where the heater hoses go down from the fan to the HE's

[stateofidleness]

Now Requesting Texas Volunteers for this repair:


- i need to order those plastic square things on the topside of the end of the engine bar.. looks like the bolt is molded into it.. where can i get those and what is their correct name?


i have a question on the fuel lines. i thought there would only be 2, a supply and return.. but it would appear that i have 3.. 2 black ones and a smaller clear one.. can someone clarify what means what and the proper way they should be mounted.. i want to pull the old ones out soon but not sure if all 3 come out



i wonder if this was part of the reason why my shifting was so sloppy:

[stateofidleness]

minor update....

i got the engine up on stands so that i could work on it a little higher... got the heat exchangers off and the driver's side header off (to get to the oil filter)..

managed to pull one of the exhaust studs out with the nut.. what do i do now?

also.. the oil filter was/is on there TIGHT!... in an attempt to get it off (without an oil filter wrench), i managed to shift the entire engine and it "fell"... its ok though, my right hand broke its fall... so as blood gushed down my arm and i ran back to the house to tend to it, im not real sure what status the engine is in right now, i believe its safely on all 3 stands still...

pain is shooting through my entire right arm... throbbing like a mother...

so work will be halted for a few weeks...

got some new rear struts off ebay and got the engine mount bar cleaned and painted, and installed the new mounts. turned out great

sigh...

[SGB]

AAARGH!

I hope you are gonna be OK.
let me try again-
I hope you didn't hurt yourself badly.
thats better. 914 people are never "OK"

[FourBlades]

Hey! What is going on with you? Are you still injured?

I'm doing a lot of the same stuff you are. I am really jonesing to
drive my car but its gonna be another 4-5 months.

John

[stateofidleness]

im all healed... im still looking for a competent welder.. i had one contact me through craigslist and it sounded promising, he just hasnt contacted me on the days ive told him im available... i wont hold my breath..

i hear ya man.. i wanna drive it soo bad... still aimin to have it back together by summer.

anyone that has outsourced their floorpan and hell hole repair to a professional, what information do i need to provide to them? my main concern was the door gaps and overall straightness of the car...

so yea... the welding part has me stressed...

but my hand is fine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Spoke]

im all healed...

Good to hear you're healed. As I told my brother after he unsuccessfully used his face to stop a 500lb vending machine from hitting the ground, next time jump OUT of the way instead of IN the way. Things can be replaced, but you can't.

anyone that has outsourced their floorpan and hell hole repair to a professional, what information do i need to provide to them?

The only thing they need to know is how much money you have. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

For the $500-$1000 or more that you will pay to get this work done, go out and buy yourself a nice welder and have at it. Take a class, buy a video, ask a friend; welding is not super difficult. Actually it's a lot of fun. I taught myself through reading on the web and trial and error. My bro-in-law is a welder for the railroad and he gave my lots of tips and instructions. I still suck at it but I'm getting better with every weld. Before you know it, you'll have welded a cage in your car.

BTW, keep up the good work and pics.

[stateofidleness]

wow gentlemen... after a LONGGGGG time without posting to this thread, it saddens me (in a way) to say that this girl is now for sale as it sits.

Current State:
It is currently in the queue at Renown Auto, auto restoration place about a mile from my house. It is awaiting floor pan and other various rust repair issues.

The engine is out and in a few pieces in my dad's workshop and my bedroom is filled with aftermarket and replacement items still in their packaging (cold air intake, bushings galore, stainless fuel lines, brand new fuel line kit (the pricey one) and other various stuff.

The reason I said I was "kind of sad" was because I have an almost running Ravenna Green 914 which is what I will focus my attention on and keep. The folks nag me daily (sometimes every hour!!!! no kidding) to "do something with the green car"... so.. the time has come.

I am wanting to sell the red car as it stands and this will help fund the engine work needed on the green one. I may also be willing to trade the whole red car (and all the parts etc) for engine work services.

I am willing to take a loss on the red one and chalk it up to a lesson learned.

It has a 2.0 motor that was pulled running. I had stripped the tin from the motor and it has been powder coated jet black and is still wrapped in the bubble wrap I got it back in. The gas tank is out of the car as well. You can think of it as a shell, with the dash, steering wheel, front and rear lights, and suspension still in place. Everything else is stripped on it.

It has the nice fat 5-lug Fuchs on it which are probably worth what I'll be offered for the whole package lol...

Please, if anyone is interested in taking this "burden" off my hands, PM me. I'm willing to make a great deal to someone to help keep this in an enthusiast's hands.

Thanks!

[stateofidleness]

*looks around*

wow! haven't been on the forum in a while... April 3rd 09 it would seem!

wanted to kinda update the thread in case anyone was actually following it, and also to ask a question...

I have the car listed on Craigslist at the moment and have gotten a LOT of emails on it (it's listed for $2500). Odd thing is, I've gotten a LOT of offers on just the wheels... Now, if i sold just the wheels, this would make selling the car even HARDER!

I'm wondering what would be a good price to let the set of wheels go for by themselves. They are 8" wide 15" Fuchs (I will confirm real or fake tomorrow in the sunshine) but I believe they're replicas. 3 of the center caps are "pop on" types and one has 2 clip points.

I will take one off tomorrow to get a part number or other stamping off the inside and will update the thread.

thanks guys! pretty soon i'll be "914 minded" again lol. My green one has been waiting for some lovin', but I can't get to her until the red is gone.... The boxster has been fun in the meantime!! It's like a 914 on steroids.

good to be back!

ps. looking back at the pictures in this thread... damn my hairline is receding!!! make it stopppp!!! i'm only 24!