Bringing out the dead Options

[Jeff Hail]

Thanks!

That's pretty much what I thought.

So, in the factory installation; the corrugated section stiffens the side wall, but isn't welded to the other side of the box.

The outer (smooth) section is what welds to the other side of the box.

What AA is selling isn't technically correct, in that it replaces the two piece "composite" that the factory used.

Yes,
Yes,
Yes ....because it it easier to manufacturer in one piece. For the most the AA part will be sufficient. Most moden cars have frame rails that are made exactly the same way. (ala "crush zones")

[Jeff Hail]

Finished grinding the welds on the inside of the wheelhouse and some more epoxy primer.

Is it perfect? No there is a thin weld bead where it was sectioned and I did not want to grind it too thin. Just above where the battery tray mounts is the most noticable. I can live with that as everything else is all good steel now.

Also fitted the lock pillar to the door and welded it up. These were brazed by the factory where they meet the sill and it took some time removing the old brass. A few rust pits where the pillar goes horizontal wiped clean with some media blasting.

[Jeff Hail]

Sean,
This is what you are looking for..............

These measurements were taken from an undamaged car and cross referenced to mine. The measurements on the inner ear will vary car to car due to rust, collison, console fatigue etc. Expect a 1/4 variance when you go to take measurements. Those inner ears take a beating over a lifetime.

By triangulating from the hole in the firewall to both right and left ears you will not have a problem when you are ready to set the camber and toe.

Using the measurements in the diagram:
Taking this to another level. You can get the inner console tacked in. Then mount your control arm. Use an "All-thread" with a spherical rod end or piece of tubing where your shock mounts to the control arm, the top of the All-thread goes to the shock tower with some washers. Base the length of the All-thread on your normal ride height (sitting on the ground). Then using a camber gauge check it to see where you are before you weld everything solid. Install a wheel and tire and you can also check toe while static.

[Gint]

Is it perfect? No there is a thin weld bead where it was sectioned and I did not want to grind it too thin. Just above where the battery tray mounts is the most noticable. I can live with that as everything else is all good steel now.

Beats rust... nice work.

[sean_v8_914]

thanks Jeff. I made some door gap bars with turn buckles also. I'll go make some "shock simulators and check alignment spec with a wheel back on. Im about to weld in teh ear and Im wondering if the heat induced wil move the car. Brer and I did teh cross check body measurements per teh factory manual last night. amazingly everything is within 1/8th to 1/16th. I will be very mindfull of warping,. next is teh inner long stiffener made by ENGMAN.

I used teh #s from your yellow pad schetch posted earlier to tac in teh ear. this new dwg is super sexy.

[sean_v8_914]

HOLY COW!!! it measured correctly 1st shot. Im going to buy a lotto ticket (after alignment check)

[brer]

I've learned alot from this thread.
Unfortuneately it means I now have to redo my entire car.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Jeff Hail]

HOLY COW!!! it measured correctly 1st shot. Im going to buy a lotto ticket (after alignment check)

Regarding the suspension console:
Nah it won't warp. Not enough constant heat in that area welding thin to thick metal.

Just move around with the gun a bit and get your buddy holding the beer to grab an airhose and blow to cool in between welds.

Regarding the Engman kit:
Go slow......really slow.....tack first .........then alternate the plug welds as you go on the 3 pieces. DONT weld one piece in one shot. Move around...get that buddy to blow compressed air around the weld zones. If you think its getting too hot stop and wait then go back.

[sean_v8_914]

thanks for the warning. I'll go left, right, front, back.

[Jeff Hail]

Little things take time!
Actually about 15 minutes

Fabricated new brackets for the airtubes. Not concerned if they look pretty. Once they are in they will never see daylight again. Removed the original, smacked it flat with a finishing hammer. Traced onto a sheet of 20 gauge steel and cut it out with hand nibbler.

I destroyed one removing the tube from the car and the other one was a non-existant little patch of iron oxide that was swept away.

Last of the original

Rough cut and bends

Final fit to the tubes

Will drop the tubes off at the media blaster tomorrow.

[Jeff Hail]

Media blasted the air tubes. Welded the brackets I fabricated and epoxy primed, wet on wet with a final coat of Alu-Zinc. They will never ever rust again!

[Jeff Hail]

Repaired the rust in the passenger side lock pillar.

Cut out the rusted area highlighted in yellow.

Cut some backing pieces and tacked them in. Being the metal is so thin
in this area it is a must. Even on the lowest heat setting on my Miller 180 it can still blow holes. Little fast trigger pulls.

[Jeff Hail]

After welding and then slowly grinding the two areas.

The area where the air vent is is tough to get a grinder into. This rea has to be right or the door weatherstrip will not seal correctly.

[Jeff Hail]

Some epoxy primer after shaping.

Oops closed the door on wet primer! Thats how I know the weatherstrip seals good.

No sail panel molding fastener holes either. Welded those up too.

The backing plates I welded in on the backside of the pillar.

[sean_v8_914]

Jeff, what do you recommend to clean this up. that white paint, layers of old glue, crusty has got to go. sand, grind, paint stripper...?

[sean_v8_914]

I was also thinking about fastening the battery tray and support with screws for future removal for cleaning.

[Jeff Hail]

Get in there with a course wire wheel to remove any loose scale and coatings.
Depending on what you find underneath you may need to do some rust repair.
With the amount of pitting I see in the photo I would media blast the area, even some light blasting with sand will get rid of the rust . Refrain from grinding as that will remove/ thin the metal.

The white undercoating is factory primer. You can featheredge this back until you find clean metal and work on the localized area. A new product has come to the US market about a year ago. 2k Epoxy primer available in a rattle can perfect for small spot repairs such as yours.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/showproduc...productid=14526

http://carpaint.blogspot.com/2006/03/spray-max-primer.html

Battery tray fastened with screws? Bad idea. 25-30 pounds bouncing around will
tear it loose quickly. At least weld the lower bracket to the rail. Most of the battery weight is supported here.

[Jeff Hail]

Installed the rt quarter panel that I had to cut off for the wheelhouse.

Used the butt-welding clamps to secure and align the panel. Making a series of tack weld's while stopping to cool the panel with compressed air.

More tacks, let cool, and many, many more tacks, let cool etc etc etc until one solid weld is complete all the way across the gap.

[Jeff Hail]

When butt-welding along with good weld penetration the key is the grinding and finishing process.

I begin with a spot weld grinding disc to take the crown of the weld down to just above panel height. Move slow and let the panel cool. A grinder will warp thin sheetmetal just like overheating while welding.

Then I use a 3 inch 36 grit disc on a angle die grinder to take the crown down a little more.

Then I switch to a 6 inch flat flap disc and follow the crown back and forth eliminating any high spots.

[Jeff Hail]

At the end I then use a different type of flap disc on a straight die grinder. I follow just the butt weld crown. This will level the weld and not dig into the surrounding metal. This type of disc is like 250 grit emery cloth.

Then I take a dual action sander with 40 grit and enlarge the area of finishing. The DA really smooths the weld and surrounding area well. Switch to 80 grit paper and then 120.

I then knocked down the inside of the qtr panel with 80 grit 3 inch discs and then a squirt of primer. I will let the primer dry and block sand the the panel Tuesday.

No bondo.

Will see after block sanding. Most likely just a skim coat of metal glaze is all it will require if that.

Still need to finish the lock pillar joint but I had plans and have to run.