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> Bringing out the dead
Jeff Hail
post Nov 13 2009, 08:37 PM
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BTW

Clayton, Clayton. Calling the Twisted one. Think were overdue for a cup of really strong Joe. Glad your back.
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my928s4
post Nov 13 2009, 09:12 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 13 2009, 06:19 PM) *


Wire wheel the area. Floor repair will follow later as I have to make a template
and didnt have the correct guage sheetmetal.


What did you coat that rusted area with?
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 13 2009, 10:10 PM
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Its not coated. Just Jasco metal prep. Cheap as water and works as well as anything. I just sprayed a bit on after wire wheeling the area. The rust is going to get cut out anyway under the corner reinforcement.
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brp986s
post Nov 13 2009, 10:21 PM
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Well...Did you get a bigger garage?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 15 2009, 02:11 AM
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QUOTE(brp986s @ Nov 13 2009, 08:21 PM) *

Well...Did you get a bigger garage?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)


Actually the shop is 2 feet shorter than the old one. But I have a hell of lot more cabinet and storage space. A 6x6x10 storage closet plus 400 square feet of floored attic storage! The shop is still in a bit of disarray but one less car equals more work space. Fire resistant dropped ceiling tiles, better lighting and sound proofing. 800 watt stereo. I cant complain and the neighbors cant hear a thing. I wanna bang all night. In space no one can hear you scream!

A 914 in process. A 1965 Harley Davidson Golf Cart (250cc Aermacchi powered 2-stroke) that will tear the balls off an EasyGo or Gator cart. The nightmare of the greens keeper.

An awesome and special woman in my life. Only the best will do.

Life is good.


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Jeff Hail
post Nov 15 2009, 02:37 AM
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Before I start cutting the rusted area from the front floor which really isnt bad. I had to fabricate a jig for the control arm mounting points. This is a critical area that cannot be left to guessing so when in doubt build a jig. Fifteen minutes of fab time will more than make up for improper positioning of the front lower control arm pivot bracket during repair of the affected area.

If I have to remove the bracket during repair, concerns that can be eliminated by doing this are:
Incorrect caster/ camber
Incorrect Steering Axis Inclination (SAI)

Do it once right the first time and sleep well.


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Jeff Hail
post Nov 15 2009, 07:41 PM
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Cut the affected sheetmetal back to good metal. Traced a template and fabricated the repair panel. In she is. Next I will install the corner reinforcement I made earlier.


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ChrisFoley
post Nov 15 2009, 07:46 PM
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Every 914 I have worked on has its own unique rust signature.
Good work Jeff!
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FourBlades
post Nov 15 2009, 08:19 PM
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Whoo Hoo, Jeff is back!!!

We are ready to learn from you once again.

Nice looking workshop.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

John
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 26 2009, 02:12 AM
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Ft floor done. Well almost... a ding just behind the nose panel needs some dolly work but that will take just a second.

Front tube structure fully welded in and spot primed. (A Thank you plug to Mr. Foley for the pipe work)


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Jeff Hail
post Nov 26 2009, 02:23 AM
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Ok
I lied... I did do some work back in January. Better living through chemicals, gelcoat and carbon fiber mat. 14 inches from the inner wheel well to the outer lip of the flair. Something tells me my 9 inch Rota's are going to need some spacers.

Don't ever tell a girl her ass it fat! It will give her complex!


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ChrisFoley
post Nov 26 2009, 08:49 AM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 26 2009, 03:23 AM) *

14 inches from the inner wheel well to the outer lip of the flair.

That is wide!
A stock rear is about 10" to the edge of the fender lip, measured from just above the step on the inner wheel well.
You need to put 275's in there or she'll just look flabby. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 27 2009, 10:34 PM
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One of last years unfinished area's. In a previous post I rebuilt the drain trough and the corner just behind the hood then life got busy.


The driver side cowl.... Done !

Ground down the rear side area and fabricated a new layer. This area is super thin from the factory where the dies stretch and thin the sheetmetal. Lots of trigger on/off to stitch it in.

Funny I forgot to reload the spool of 023 wire and had 030 in the mig. Oops but hey good penetration.



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Jeff Hail
post Nov 27 2009, 10:35 PM
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After shaping and grinding. Came out a lot better than the passenger side.


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914Mike
post Nov 28 2009, 07:58 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 27 2009, 09:35 PM) *

After shaping and grinding. Came out a lot better than the passenger side.


How's the hood fit this area? The pics make it look a little too flat/forward at the corners to me.
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Jeff Hail
post Nov 29 2009, 01:10 AM
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Hood fits perfect. Only the best will do.


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Jeff Hail
post Dec 1 2009, 12:36 AM
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Did ya notice the hinges? Weight Watchers for Fat Girls style.


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Jeff Hail
post Dec 19 2009, 12:09 AM
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Not planning to have any ventilation blower so no need for the cowl intake anymore. Notice the bulkhead duct (oval) holes are gone too.

Yes that is filler dust you see (holy crap he actually finally used some mud)


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Jeff Hail
post Dec 27 2009, 03:30 AM
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Forward bulkhead compartment denuded of seam sealer. Stripped to bare metal looking for rust. I did find some minor surface rust scale where the two bolts secure the hood lock cylinder housing. Chemical metal prep was all that was needed. Self etching primer applied. Very clean.

Notice the brake fluid bottle bracket and hood spring brackets are removed along with the cowl vent intake.


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Jeff Hail
post Dec 27 2009, 03:39 AM
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The windshield molding clip hole's are all welded up. No need for these any longer. I will use a rubber reveal molding. Pilot holes are all welded up and epoxy primed.


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