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> Bringing out the dead
Jeff Hail
post Jan 23 2011, 11:04 PM
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A few hours spent today installing the outer reinforcement, finish grinding and tidying up the left side. I didn't like the condition of the pinch weld just forward of the pickup soooooooo I flat bottomed the entire rail. One big piece of 16 gauge steel shaped like a "C" , plugged, seamed welded from inside to underside to outside. Look's clean and stout. I will duplicate the same on the right side.






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Hontec
post Jan 24 2011, 04:05 AM
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Nice solution! pickups not only look way better than stock!
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P.Rocket
post Jan 26 2011, 03:25 AM
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This thread is briliant!
Very well documented.
A very useful tool for what I have in store.
My 15yo son and I just rolled the 73 914 into the shop last weekend, to lift it up on the hoist and have a look around to assess the extent of rust and poor previous repairs. Wow this will be one big project, for sure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) . Like I said to my son, atleast you'll know how to weld when we're done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Thanks for the quality information.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/farm6.static.flickr.com-8822-1296033906.1.jpg)
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Jeff Hail
post Feb 5 2011, 12:22 AM
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While waiting for my date to arrive to go out for a bite I got bored.


Installed a backer plate behind the pillar. Then butt welded the lower lock pillar in.
The bottom is loose at the sill so I can shift it as needed when the sill goes in.
Didn't even get dirty!


Bon Appétit
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)




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sixnotfour
post Feb 5 2011, 11:26 AM
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date "oh jeff you smell great ,what cologne do you have on ?"

"Metal Man"

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Jeff Hail
post Feb 5 2011, 11:59 AM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 5 2011, 09:26 AM) *

date "oh jeff you smell great ,what cologne do you have on ?"

"Metal Man"


Hugo Boss -Dark Blue

Accents my Miller 180
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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Jeff Hail
post Feb 5 2011, 11:27 PM
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Repeat of a previous hat trick except in reverse. A few tiny pin holes in the butt weld to fix later. I will have to stretch the bead area via hammer form a little as it sucked in from the heat. It happens.

Bottom of the lock pillar still left loose for wiggle room when I install the sill and final fitment.


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Eric_Shea
post Feb 6 2011, 03:25 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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majkos
post Feb 6 2011, 10:22 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

You make it look Soooo easy!

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Jeff Hail
post Feb 11 2011, 07:12 PM
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Driver side sill in. Need to finish grind the plugs and pillar joint, then install the triangles.


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Jeff Hail
post Feb 11 2011, 07:14 PM
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Thats a floor Eric. Say ahh!


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Jeff Hail
post Feb 13 2011, 10:11 PM
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Chipping away one piece at a time. Metal finishing on the sill and lock pillar done. Sill triangles installed. Deleted the dome light switch holes.

Thought I had some epoxy primer left (It's somewhere or maybe I am out) Sucks because I hate using etching primer on an area thats done and wont need to come back to until final prep for paint. Oh well it will sand off easily later.


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ONTHEGRIND
post Feb 13 2011, 10:15 PM
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I am doing alot of metal work myself and have etching primer that I used on my trunk what are the benefits of using the epoxy ?
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Jeff Hail
post Feb 13 2011, 10:19 PM
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My good friend Victor Van Tress (1987 SCCA Nationals SSB champion winning 505 Turbo) snapped this photo a while back.

Awesome tow vehicle. Priceless pic. Makes you smile because you wonder what else does the owner have in his garage?





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Jeff Hail
post Feb 13 2011, 11:22 PM
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QUOTE(ONTHEGRIND @ Feb 13 2011, 08:15 PM) *

I am doing alot of metal work myself and have etching primer that I used on my trunk what are the benefits of using the epoxy ?


Etching primer is good for bare metal. Its comprised of acid, zinc and binders. SEP will fend of surface rusting but it does not seal metal as epoxy does. Being my project sits sometimes I would rather not worry whats going on under the surface over time so I use epoxy primer. Personally I think epoxy has a better bite also.

Refinishing products are meant to be applied with time limits.. and not long intervals between application of say primer's and basecoats. In my experience etching primers and 2K primers are not and do not hold up unless colorcoat/ clear applications are done in short order as moisture can penetrate if let to sit. SEP and 2K primers have good adhesion properties if top coats are applied very soon.

Additionally if filler is being applied they can be done under or on top of epoxy primer. (this one is always open to debate). I personally would never apply filler over or under etching primer... as acid can get into and soften filler.

For me I prefer metal conditioning as a separate process.

Bottom line every paint manufacturer has a system with products and the order to be used in.


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Jeff Hail
post Feb 23 2011, 11:21 PM
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Installed some new metal on the left side of the tunnel where the flange/ floor meet.

Trim, trim, trim and drill a bazillion spot welds. The left side floor crossmember has twice as many resistance welds as the passenger side. Some rust under the crossmember flange actually "rust welded" the floor together.

I might make new crossmember overlays if it doesnt come apart at the flanges easily. An air chisel will tear the flanges up and a hand spot weld buster is already doing that.



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krazykonrad
post Feb 24 2011, 10:48 AM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Feb 23 2011, 09:21 PM) *

"rust welded"



Don't cut out the rust welds. Those are original from the factory! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Konrad
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Jeff Hail
post Mar 7 2011, 05:03 PM
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A few more modifications to the early firewall. Closed off the heater cable tube holes and airtube exits from the inside.

Early/ Late lower firewall:
The brake presure regulator and brake line exit sits farther to the left on the early firewall. I think I will leave them where the early panel locates them. Not sure if the later location will interfere with the 3.2 but I don't want to find out later.

Lower firewall final fit up done. Held with Cleco's. Inner reinforcement (AA) halves welded together to create a single panel...easier to assemble.









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Jeff Hail
post Mar 7 2011, 05:06 PM
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Next I will fit the floor and trim as needed. Take it all apart and punch the holes for the plugs.
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Jeff Hail
post Mar 7 2011, 05:08 PM
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QUOTE(krazykonrad @ Feb 24 2011, 08:48 AM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Feb 23 2011, 09:21 PM) *

"rust welded"



Don't cut out the rust welds. Those are original from the factory! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Konrad


I missed that Konrad. You're a funny guy! I wonder if "Rustone" was a factory color code option?
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